Norcold works on LP but not on AC.

[Redapple63]

What model Norcold is it?

[4x4dually]

What model Norcold is it?

I'm sorry, I did not look at it or know it. I'll have to find that out when I get home. I'm watching some element resistance check youtube vids now.

[337MKR]

We have the Norcold 1210T. Getting ready to replace the power board for the second time. Same symptoms you have. Works fine on propane, not cooling on AC power.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

We have the Norcold 1210T. Getting ready to replace the power board for the second time. Same symptoms you have. Works fine on propane, not cooling on AC power.

Sounds like the dealer doesn't know whats wrong and is just swapping out parts.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

For most fridges, all you have for variables is
1 Incoming 120vac
2 Fuse for refrigerator A/C heater
3 Relay for turning heater on and off. Probably on main board - not replaceable by most people.

So verify 120vac first (your first post did not VERIFY 120 - just assumed)
Then check the fuse. With power off. Replace if necessary. If it was blown - check heater resistance, check wiring to heater - replace if out of spec. Probably about 40-60 ohms? Guessing here.
Power it up and see if you are getting 120 to heater leads.
If not, probably the relay on the board. Try listening for a click. You can also test by feeling with a finger but unless you have done that kind of stuff before and know what you are doing with electricity, wouldn't recommend - you can get shocked.

[Jims94vmx]

Also sounds like you are running too much off the extension cord. Maybe turn off the smaller fridge. You have 2 fridges and converter all pulling off 1 outlet. Just a thought.

[Captcolour]

Not likely the no AC problem. If no AC, would switch automatically to LP, or if was forced on to AC only, would show a message saying no AC. Likely has AC as it appears to sense it, so likely something else like a board problem.

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Not likely the no AC problem. If no AC, would switch automatically to LP, or if was forced on to AC only, would show a message saying no AC. Likely has AC as it appears to sense it, so likely something else like a board problem.

While I agree with you Capt, I like to verify with a meter just to be 100%. Sometimes, electricity can do very unusual and unexpected things....
The board can be getting 120vac but have the heater fuse on the board blown or making poor contact. Or poor connection on the heater itself.

[Redapple63]

Here is how to test the electric elements

I have included pictures of the elements and an image how to test.

Should be 64 ohms

[337MKR]

Sounds like the dealer doesn't know whats wrong and is just swapping out parts.

The first board was diagnosed and replaced by a certified Norcold technician. Was still under warranty.
Of course with the second failure now I would suspect there is a load or resistance issue somewhere.