Plumbers? Re-piping my shower drain

[llr2800]

I wonder what the white thing is, doesn't make sense for a filter on the drain.

I have never had a AC with the heat strips but they are electric heating elements that go in the AC unit. I don't know if most brands have them or if they are still available. These would not keep the under floor plumbing from freezing.

If you are staying in one place over the winter you could have a propane company set you up with a larger tank.

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[SolarPoweredRV]

Hmmm, good point. I was thinking I had plenty of vertical pipe available I could cut off above the existing 90° fitting. I will have to look to double check and make sure. I guess the floor above is pretty close, so makes sense If that's so, that ruins my initial ideas.
As for clearance, I need about 3" I think. I will have to hold up the furnace extension piece to get some more accurate measurements.


haha, well electric heat currently, I have my "fireplace" which does an OK job but not in Winter. It's more of supplemental heat but definitely not the main heat. It also of course doesn't utilize the RV ducting or heating the storage areas etc.
I have 3 A/C's, the main unit has a heat pump which does utilize the ducting. But it only does so well, it won't heat up the RV if it's 20°F outside.
So this 'addition' will give me similar capabilities as the propane furnace, heating all areas, but I won't have to worry about using propane and paying for it. There is a simple switch to switch to electric or gas though, so if there were ever any issues, I can still utilize the propane functionality with the push of a button.

To be honest, I've had this for almost a year haha, I just wasn't motivated to install it in summer. Now I need it haha so time to install (Summer would've been much more ideal haha)


The white filter thing is inline with the drain pipe on the horizontal portion. It's hard to see in that photo but here is a better shot (attached)

I'm confused on your heat strip statement, the only heat strips I know of are for things such as heat tape used to heat pipes to prevent them from heating. Are you referring to something else though that can actually heat a space?
In any case, the goal here is to provide enough heat output that the propane furnace can provide, but at no cost of refilling anything
Attachment 37930

The "White Filter Thing" is not a filter at all, it is used to prevent sewer gasses from entering the coach via the shower drain. Normally, there is a "P" trap underneath the shower that traps water to prevent the sewer gasses from coming into the coach.

The "Heat strips" mentioned above is an option on most RV Air Conditioners which allow you to heat your coach with electricity using the A/C units. Since you have three A/C units in your coach, I think you could accomplish your goal of electric heating easier by installing heat strips in the two A/C units that are not the heat pump unit.

Adding heat strips to two A/C units will probably give you more heat than the one furnace add-on unit you have.

As far as trying to re-route your Shower drain, you can't. They do not make ABS Pipe with tighter bends than you currently have. What you are thinking about is how tight the "elbows" are on PVC (white) pipe. Unfortunately, those PVC "elbows" are for supply line plumbing, not Drain/Waste piping. PVC will not work with the ABS (black) piping you have. Additionally, tight bends in drains causes plugging, even in showers, because, there is a lot of hair that goes down the drain and it likes to snag on everything.

I'd look into adding heat strips to your two A/C units and selling the furnace heater to someone else.

[geotex1]

Hmmm, good point. I was thinking I had plenty of vertical pipe available I could cut off above the existing 90° fitting. I will have to look to double check and make sure. I guess the floor above is pretty close, so makes sense If that's so, that ruins my initial ideas.
As for clearance, I need about 3" I think. I will have to hold up the furnace extension piece to get some more accurate measurements.


haha, well electric heat currently, I have my "fireplace" which does an OK job but not in Winter. It's more of supplemental heat but definitely not the main heat. It also of course doesn't utilize the RV ducting or heating the storage areas etc.
I have 3 A/C's, the main unit has a heat pump which does utilize the ducting. But it only does so well, it won't heat up the RV if it's 20°F outside.
So this 'addition' will give me similar capabilities as the propane furnace, heating all areas, but I won't have to worry about using propane and paying for it. There is a simple switch to switch to electric or gas though, so if there were ever any issues, I can still utilize the propane functionality with the push of a button.

To be honest, I've had this for almost a year haha, I just wasn't motivated to install it in summer. Now I need it haha so time to install (Summer would've been much more ideal haha)


The white filter thing is inline with the drain pipe on the horizontal portion. It's hard to see in that photo but here is a better shot (attached)

I'm confused on your heat strip statement, the only heat strips I know of are for things such as heat tape used to heat pipes to prevent them from heating. Are you referring to something else though that can actually heat a space?
In any case, the goal here is to provide enough heat output that the propane furnace can provide, but at no cost of refilling anything
Attachment 37930

This is why I said you'd need a standard 90 degree tub drain elbow...

The "white thing" is not sny sort of filter. It is what replaces a wet trap. Generically, it is called a waterless trap, but it's really a form of a valve. Colloquially, most plumbers who know what these are refer to them by the dominant brand - Hepvo.

You might want to do more research into that CheapHeat unit before you commit. It's been around a good decade, and there have been plenty of complaints, but probably the biggest thing is handling the second power cord (if still that way). Even if your site is electric included, often the wiring is such that you can draw the full average of both outlets. I also remember full-timers finding themselves paying fees for two sites when having one coach with two shore power connections... I know it's about a grand investment by the time installed, and while you may have already addressed these considerations for your circumstances it's to the benefit of others interested to know these details too.

[IBEW Sparky]

@FirstAscent

Just curious... Can I ask what's the reason you're looking into doing this modification to the furnace?

[Patrick Lee]

Are “portable heaters” a thing where you live? [emoji2960]


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[FirstAscent]

I have never had a AC with the heat strips but they are electric heating elements that go in the AC unit. I don't know if most brands have them or if they are still available. These would not keep the under floor plumbing from freezing.

If you are staying in one place over the winter you could have a propane company set you up with a larger tank.

Ah I see, I could look into that for sure, I have Coleman A/C units so will see what is available for heat strips.
I don't stay in the same place for longer than 3 weeks at most, but either way, a larger propane tank isn't the solution since I'm trying to get away from having to pay for Propane.

The "White Filter Thing" is not a filter at all, it is used to prevent sewer gasses from entering the coach via the shower drain. Normally, there is a "P" trap underneath the shower that traps water to prevent the sewer gasses from coming into the coach.

The "Heat strips" mentioned above is an option on most RV Air Conditioners which allow you to heat your coach with electricity using the A/C units. Since you have three A/C units in your coach, I think you could accomplish your goal of electric heating easier by installing heat strips in the two A/C units that are not the heat pump unit.

Adding heat strips to two A/C units will probably give you more heat than the one furnace add-on unit you have.

As far as trying to re-route your Shower drain, you can't. They do not make ABS Pipe with tighter bends than you currently have. What you are thinking about is how tight the "elbows" are on PVC (white) pipe. Unfortunately, those PVC "elbows" are for supply line plumbing, not Drain/Waste piping. PVC will not work with the ABS (black) piping you have. Additionally, tight bends in drains causes plugging, even in showers, because, there is a lot of hair that goes down the drain and it likes to snag on everything.

I'd look into adding heat strips to your two A/C units and selling the furnace heater to someone else.

Thanks for clearing up the "filter" that's not a filter that makes sense!

I'm definitely looking into the heat strips and what is available for my Coleman A/C's and their specs, thanks!

Originally this (Home Depot link below) was what I had in mind, so you're saying this is too tight of a bend for the drain?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-2-...oduct-overview

This is why I said you'd need a standard 90 degree tub drain elbow...

The "white thing" is not sny sort of filter. It is what replaces a wet trap. Generically, it is called a waterless trap, but it's really a form of a valve. Colloquially, most plumbers who know what these are refer to them by the dominant brand - Hepvo.

You might want to do more research into that CheapHeat unit before you commit. It's been around a good decade, and there have been plenty of complaints, but probably the biggest thing is handling the second power cord (if still that way). Even if your site is electric included, often the wiring is such that you can draw the full average of both outlets. I also remember full-timers finding themselves paying fees for two sites when having one coach with two shore power connections... I know it's about a grand investment by the time installed, and while you may have already addressed these considerations for your circumstances it's to the benefit of others interested to know these details too.

See Home Depot link above, that would be too tight of a bend?

Thanks for the thoughts on the CheapHeat system. I haven't really seen/heard a lot of real user experience/reviews about them But know it's nothing "new". From all the docs/drawings and phone conversations with the owner that I've had is there is no second power cord. You just have your one shore power cord, and there is a control box that identifies if it's 30A or 50A circuit, and switches the coil to different modes, higher wattage for 50A of course. Overall, there are 3 settings depending on the heat output and power source.
I will do some more digging though, I do like to know others perspective so I can always make the best decision for me.

@FirstAscent

Just curious... Can I ask what's the reason you're looking into doing this modification to the furnace?

The main thing here is to have a main heat source, that utilizes the factory ducting (and therefore heats underneath and pipes as well) and that is not propane "simple" as that. Except it's never that simple haha. But that's the goal.

I'm definitely not saying this is the best solution, just the best potential solution I've come across so far.

To be fair, I'm mostly on the West Coast, and the areas I stay even when I do need Propane, it's fairly rare. When I do need Propane, it's typically at night when the temps really drop. If the sun is out and it's 35-40° the 'fireplace' actually does a decent job. and I don't want 1, 2, or 3 littler supplemental heaters plugged in that I have to carry around

So yes, I'm being picky ha!

Are “portable heaters” a thing where you live? [emoji2960]
no, never. jk I'm assuming you're talking about the little heaters you plug into a standard 15A/110 receptacle? I have one right now, but would need more to heat properly, and I already hate having the one.
Anna they only heat the space, and not the under storage/piping areas.

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[IBEW Sparky]

@FirstAscent

Nothing wrong with those little ceramic disk heaters if you get the correct ones. I can easily heat my RV with two small heaters that are about 6"x6"x6" in size. You could mount one in the storage compartment and that would provide enough warm air for the return of the furnace to circulate through the ductwork... you would need a different T-stat that would allow the furnace to run in fan only mode. We also use the bedroom AC unit on Lo Fan Mode to circulate the warm air that accumulates up at the ceiling level. We seldom use our propane for heat unless we're boondocking and it's cold. Propane is pretty much just used for the refrigerator while traveling and occasionally the water heater.

[Patrick Lee]

@FirstAscent

Nothing wrong with those little ceramic disk heaters if you get the correct ones. I can easily heat my RV with two small heaters that are about 6"x6"x6" in size. You could mount one in the storage compartment and that would provide enough warm air for the return of the furnace to circulate through the ductwork... you would need a different T-stat that would allow the furnace to run in fan only mode. We also use the bedroom AC unit on Lo Fan Mode to circulate the warm air that accumulates up at the ceiling level. We seldom use our propane for heat unless we're boondocking and it's cold. Propane is pretty much just used for the refrigerator while traveling and occasionally the water heater.

Would you mind sharing which small disk heaters you use? It’s currently on my list.


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[IBEW Sparky]

Would you mind sharing which small disk heaters you use? It’s currently on my list.


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I use the Pelonis Comfort Glow heaters. They're metal and very durable, I've had mine for well over 20 years and they still work flawlessly. They're not as cheap as when I bought them but still worth the money in my opinion. Whatever you do DON'T get any heaters with a plastic housing.

https://www.wayfair.com/Comfort-Glow...MaAhYgEALw_wcB