Norcold works on LP but not on AC.

[4x4dually]

I've got something weird going on with out new '21 Reflection 367BHS. It has the double wide Norcold RV fridge. I moved the trailer to a location where I can only use the 50A to 30A adapter, then adapt down to the 15A outlet. The only thing I have at the power pole currently is a single recept.....I'm building a barn for the RV and don't have it complete yet. So, the trailer is powered by a normal extensions cord but every thing is turned off except the little AC fridge in the cubby hole and the kitchen fridge.

Went out last night and it was hot. Display still works so it's getting 12 VDC....which to me means the DC power supply on the back of the fridge is working....thus, it has to be getting AC. Also, on AU/AC mode, it doesn't light the burner so it has to be getting AC....???

Switched it to LP mode and it lights the burner and starts to cool off. I forgot to check the temp this am before coming to work, but what the heck? Has anyone had this issue? I haven't had time to really dive into the schematic and start checking things yet, but it just seems very odd...and naturally, we are taking it to camp this weekend. Go figure that I find this the night before we leave. Breaker in the bunk room for "fridge" is on and not tripped.

Any iders?

[Captcolour]

Assume the little fridge was working fine and cold? Flap on the door closed properly to seal the two doors? When is the last time the Norcold was turned off? Sometimes a reboot is needed especially when switching back and forth from AC and LP.

[4x4dually]

It was cold when parked next to the shop plugged into 50A power. I moved it across the yard to get it out of the way and plugged it into the recpet to keep battery charged a week ago. I checked it the night before last and the freezer was cold but the fridge wasn't. Last night, I checked it and both were warm. So, it WAS working on AC and must have quit a day or two ago. I'm assuming I've lost the heater element or a fuse. I need to get the diagram out this afternoon and see if I can probe around on it. LP cooling will get me by for the weekend, but having a brand new trailer and having issues really chaps my arse....but go figure. Not aware of any power flashes on the line or power interruptions since I moved it over there. No codes or issues shown on the display.

[Captcolour]

My Norcold 2118 is finicky when switching power source. Sometimes when traveling on LP and get to a site and plug into 50amp, it switches over to AC fine but I can see the temp starting to increase. I power it down, wait a minute, then power it back on, and usually will see the temp start to go down in 10 minutes or so.

[4x4dually]

My Norcold 2118 is finicky when switching power source. Sometimes when traveling on LP and get to a site and plug into 50amp, it switches over to AC fine but I can see the temp starting to increase. I power it down, wait a minute, then power it back on, and usually will see the temp start to go down in 10 minutes or so.

Well, that's comforting. LOL I'll know more after the weekend. I just wanted to ask incase someone has seen this and had advice on something easy I need to check. Sound like typical RV electronics. Good enough to work in the showroom and that's it.

[Ynot4me2]

Have you checked to see if there power to the fridge 120v receptacle? Maybe the plug came loose. If you open the lower rear exterior fridge panel, you should have access to it.

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[4x4dually]

Have you checked to see if there power to the fridge 120v receptacle? Maybe the plug came loose. If you open the lower rear exterior fridge panel, you should have access to it.

I will when I get home. I saw the cord last night in the dark but didn't see where it plugged in. Since there is a AC/DC power supply in the compartment, and the display was on, I assumed we had AC available and the fact that the display doesn't say NO AC or whatever the fault code is....I assumed it to be good. I'll get the DMM out later today and dig into it. Not really clear on what powers what. If there is a AC/DC power supply, and no AC, then the display would be dead. Not sure what runs off battery, what runs off the power supply etc. I need to get the diagram out and dig in deep.

[Ynot4me2]

I will when I get home. I saw the cord last night in the dark but didn't see where it plugged in. Since there is a AC/DC power supply in the compartment, and the display was on, I assumed we had AC available and the fact that the display doesn't say NO AC or whatever the fault code is....I assumed it to be good. I'll get the DMM out later today and dig into it. Not really clear on what powers what. If there is a AC/DC power supply, and no AC, then the display would be dead. Not sure what runs off battery, what runs off the power supply etc. I need to get the diagram out and dig in deep.

The display, lights, fans and control board runs off of DC. AC is just for the compressor. I'm not certain if it should throw an error code or not if there's an issue with the AC supply.

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[Redapple63]

I'm assuming I've lost the heater element or a fuse.

This is the best place to start after you confirm 120v power.

You can ohm them heater elements to determine if it is good or not. Look up the part number and you can get the ohms requirements to test.

In think that is the issue.

Good Luck,
Bill

[4x4dually]

This is the best place to start after you confirm 120v power.

You can ohm them heater elements to determine if it is good or not. Look up the part number and you can get the ohms requirements to test.

Thanks, Bill. First...I have to figure out where the element is and how to get to it. I'm not familiar with these RV setups. Never had to touch the on in our old trailer. I'll see what I can figure out this afternoon.