Winter Camping

[Redapple63]

It is the AC only. I use the furnace fan in the house to circulate air when I heat with wood.

I looked at the ducting and there is no way around this, either no water in the lines or running the furnace the whole time.

The 22MLE is small with the slide in so the oil heater works well for me but you all are correct it’s just not hot enough to keep the lines from freezing if the underbelly needs forced hot air from the heater.

My question would be no water in the lines is enough if the cabin is heated of have to winterize it every time?


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I’m going to give you my standard Systems Engineering answer…it depends.

What does that mean, I am willing to bet that unless it is below freezing for more than 8 or so hours at a time, just blowing out the lines is probably ok, especially is it is only for a couple of days.

I never use the pink stuff, just blow out the lines, but where I live it only goes below freezing at night.

I think you will be ok just blowing out the lines, drain from low points and drain the water heater.

Bill

[Second Chance]

My question would be no water in the lines is enough if the cabin is heated of have to winterize it every time?

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That depends on temps and exposure (time below freezing, wind, etc.). The safest thing to do would be to blow the lines with a compressor, run the pump dry, and pour a little anti-freeze in the traps. On your trailer, that should take about 15 minutes each time.

Rob

[ZuriHagel]

I’m going to give you my standard Systems Engineering answer…it depends.

What does that mean, I am willing to bet that unless it is below freezing for more than 8 or so hours at a time, just blowing out the lines is probably ok, especially is it is only for a couple of days.

I never use the pink stuff, just blow out the lines, but where I live it only goes below freezing at night.

I think you will be ok just blowing out the lines, drain from low points and drain the water heater.

Bill

Thanks Bill.


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[ZuriHagel]

That depends on temps and exposure (time below freezing, wind, etc.). The safest thing to do would be to blow the lines with a compressor, run the pump dry, and pour a little anti-freeze in the traps. On your trailer, that should take about 15 minutes each time.

Rob

How do you blow the lines? Through the winterization line into the pump?


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[Redapple63]

How do you blow the lines? Through the winterization line into the pump?


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This is what I use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LP8GL5...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks,
Bill

[ZuriHagel]

This is what I use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LP8GL5...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks,
Bill

Awesome …

https://youtu.be/yaxKIKGRdIo

Here is a great video that summarizes how to winterize with the blow out method.

Thanks everyone!


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[Franktafl]

This is what I use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LP8GL5...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks,
Bill

Make sure you use one of these…

Preciva Air Compressor Pressure Regulator with Dial Gauge, 0-175 PSI Air Gauge for Air Compressor and Air Tools (Four Way Valve).

Keep the air pressure lower than the water pressure and you will not have issues.

[ZuriHagel]

I did, I filled the pressure tank to 45 let it drop to 40. The adapter I got has a bike valve on one side.

The whole conversation started with having the gas heater on and morphed into you can’t have water in the rig without it even if the cabin is 70 degrees.

This is what I did since I keep the cabin heated with AC oil heater.

So I drained everything using gravity. I blew the fresh water line with compressed air, blew the black water tank line same. Water was in the both for sure, I could hear it or see it come out of the fresh water tank.

I put a small space heater I use for my boat into the cargo bay.

I didn’t bother blowing all the faucets thru the city water valve because that space and the cabinets are heated.


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[sande005]

I wanted to get some recommendations on Winter Camping. I have a 22MLE TT with the 4 seasons options which means the underbelly is insulated.

We don’t get very cold weather in the Pacific Northwest and I bought the camper to use year round. There are cold spells and one is coming where it will be in the 20’s to teens.

While in my driveway I have a 12 amp oil heater in the rig and it keeps it room temperature and I keep the water heater and frig on with electric. I keep the gas set at 60 or so in case the oil heater can’t keep up. I keep the slide closed too and I often go there to watch TV.

I don’t use the city water, I keep the tank partially filled with water so it doesn’t freeze and use the gravity feed to do that. I leave the water pump off unless I use it and it is in the cabin.

My worry is the insulated area where the tanks and pex run. It says that area is vented to the cabin so I’m guessing the temp in there stays above freezing if the room temp is in the high 60’s - anyone know?

Also I thought about regular frost king heat tape for the exposed plastic pipes under the camper. Those are the sewer and gray water valves in particular.

I think the low point drains and the fresh water drain can be left as is and maybe a hair dryer if they are frozen to drain?

Looking for some experience here

Thank you!


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You didn't mention how mobile you want to be. If you'll be in a spot for a few days or more, explore the options for side skirting to enclose the underside of the trailer. If you have power, you may want to then think about heat options underneath the trailer to augment that coming from the furnace. Lots of possibilities for DIY skirting out on the web, from simple foam boards to fancy panels that break down into a stack to make it easier to setup/take down if you want to be a bit more mobile.

[ZuriHagel]

You didn't mention how mobile you want to be. If you'll be in a spot for a few days or more, explore the options for side skirting to enclose the underside of the trailer. If you have power, you may want to then think about heat options underneath the trailer to augment that coming from the furnace. Lots of possibilities for DIY skirting out on the web, from simple foam boards to fancy panels that break down into a stack to make it easier to setup/take down if you want to be a bit more mobile.

I saw that on a YouTube about skirting with a heater under there. It’s what I would do if we really camped for long periods because you could use it for storage as well.

My latest thought put a t-connection in the heater conduit run going to the belly and use an inline fan like this that would install under the kitchen sink in my case.

https://vivosun.com/products/vivosun...-for-grow-tent

This way it’ll function like if you had fan option control for the gas heater.

The design flaw on the winter protection is no fan always on mode for the gas heater so you can use supplemental heat.

But I can’t really call it a flaw until I know for sure the ambient temps in the cabin don’t heat it enough … I’ll take some temp readings with a FLIR through the toilet to see what the bottom of the tank reads …

I‘m also going to check the wiring on the Suburban Heater if it does have a fan mode that was not utilized … good possibility because the fan switch turns on the heater when there is enough air so it can’t be too hard to engineer fan only.


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