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  1. #21
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrokeDown View Post
    What would it take to add a zirk?


    -B
    If you have already removed the pin, you could drill and tap to install a Zirk ( I would recommend a Zirk for each side where the wear points are.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrokeDown View Post
    As I was reading through, I was thinking the same thing. When I get mine, I'll contact Reese to see if they will sell me one.


    -B
    I'm going to wind up calling them anyway, I got home yesterday and pulled the pin out today again to try to really "fix this" (rather than the road fix I did last week). Short version, my pin is shot, it's just too pitted and corroded, I can (and did) get the rust off, but it's not smooth on the wearing surfaces and I don't have the right tools to repair this correctly. I need a new pin. Honestly, the mating surface (inside) doesn't feel that great either, it's certainly not as smooth as I'd like it to be. Doesn't appear to be any way to change that out without changing out the entire Goosebox (the parts the pin rides on), so I'm going to call them and see if they'll send me a pin and give that a shot. Maybe a smooth pin will be enough even if the mating surface is a bit rough?

    If you have already removed the pin, you could drill and tap to install a Zirk ( I would recommend a Zirk for each side where the wear points are.
    A machine shop could do it, but I don't have the right tools. I have a big drill press that could get through the rod, but don't have any way to get dead center on the pin. To do it right, I'd want a lathe for the hole through the middle and a mill to drill the cross section. You could certainly do it with less, but that would be the right way to do it. Also, you'd need to fab something like a wet bolt to replace the allen head bolts with a hex bolt that has a zerk on it. Absolutely that would be the best/right way to do it, just don't have the machinery to do it. A machine shop could probably fab up the wet bolts and bore it without batting an eyelash, but for me that would be a multi-day project and probably still wouldn't be up to the standards I'd like.

  3. #23
    Seasoned Camper 4x4dually's Avatar
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    Whipped up a little something just now. This is what I foresee a new pin looking like. No reason for bolts and threads as I see it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    2021 Reflection 367BHS
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  4. #24
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4dually View Post
    Whipped up a little something just now. This is what I foresee a new pin looking like. No reason for bolts and threads as I see it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'll pay you 100 bucks if you can send me one.

    That exactly what it should look like. The other option would be to use the pin that's already there, change the bolt to a hex (standard) head with a zerk in it (similar to the wet bolts used in suspensions) and then bore the center of the pin. That way you could still have the standard setup with bolts holding it in place and the ability to grease it as you should.

    I called Reese today, the response I got was underwhelming. "We're not sure if we even have that part" (really?), and "Never heard of one going bad" (really?! Took me one post to find others who had this problem!). And then finally, a discussion about how "they are not designed to be silent". .

    Well no crap Reese, hitches make noise. That's not the issue here, a noise from the hitch is one thing, the hitch binding when it tries to move is something entirely different.

    They asked me to send them pictures, so I pulled it back out, cleaned off the grease, and am sending them pictures of the pin tomorrow. It's really torn up and pitted, if I found a pin like that in my tractor, I'd immediately pull it and throw it away. Yes, it will work, but it's going to eat whatever it's riding on eventually because it's so rough.

    I'll keep this thread updated on my progress, but first impressions weren't all that positive for Reese technical support. I mean, come on guys, this is clearly going to be a potential problem, you likely have 100's of these things on the road today banging/popping and not moving correctly because of rusted pins, and eventually EVERY Goosebox (where the owner doesn't disassemble it as described in this thread, which, BTW, is NOT mentioned as standard maint for this pin) will have this problem. It's a metal to metal, unlubricated, high stress, high movement joint. It's going to rust, and it's going to make a horrible noise as it wears itself away, not if, but when.

  5. #25
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    Low tension spring clip is not sufficient. You are thinking the design is pure hinge, it is not. The inner assembly can walk laterally a bit relative to the outer. So it has a thrust load. E-clip/high-tension is a minimum IMO. However, know why equipment pins don't use spring or E-clips? Cannot be knocked off accidentally that way. Your design will also require a complete different washer either side - the washers are what is taking the thrust loading. So now your washer ID must be slightly larger than shaft OD, longer overall, and lock slots cut considering the washer thickness, thermal dimensional changes of the stamped steel and some play for no bind. You E-clip will now take all the thrust, and external spring clips are inefficient for thrust (why internal snap rings are used in thrust applications). Moreover, a drilled bolt would have to be way larger for a grease port and still have strength. Horizon will never share all the loads, so this is guesswork. No go for me since external thread is simple exchange. Drilling the shaft also has strength implications. Lowest tech is drill only to center of bearing and then cross drill at non-bearing at rest to make sure grease flows. Precision polish then a must. Equipment pins are done differently but you're trying to go well price.

    OT, if your hinge loops are pitted, you know polishing them a must or your soft pin will look like your current pin next year.
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
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  6. #26
    Big Traveler
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    Grabbed this picture yesterday for my discussion with Reese, good view of the pitting/galling on the pin.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    OT, if your hinge loops are pitted, you know polishing them a must or your soft pin will look like your current pin next year.
    That's much easier said than done. Not sure exactly what tool I could use to get in there and really polish those hinge loops. That said, they don't appear to be/feel to be galled like the pin is (they feel pretty smooth to touch).
    Last edited by Overtaxed; 01-04-2022 at 04:18 AM.

  7. #27
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overtaxed View Post
    Grabbed this picture yesterday for my discussion with Reese, good view of the pitting/galling on the pin.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	38385



    That's much easier said than done. Not sure exactly what tool I could use to get in there and really polish those hinge loops. That said, they don't appear to be/feel to be galled like the pin is (they feel pretty smooth to touch).
    I agree, the pin needs to be replaced.

    You could use a cylinder hone, they make them that fit a particular size and others that fit a range of sizes.
    https://www.amazon.com/51mm-Flex-Hon.../dp/B002TOGK5Y
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCMY9NH...V98AWWJMET39PR

    -B
    Fulltime RVer since 4/2016. Newmar Mountain Aire 4523 - Jeep Rubicon JKU - Harley FLTRU
    2022 F450 Platinum, 2022 Momentum 351MS-R with Curt Flex Air hitch and MORryde IS
    Also considering a Polaris General XP 1000 4 Seater and a Can Am Spyder RT Limited

  8. #28
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrokeDown View Post
    I agree, the pin needs to be replaced.

    You could use a cylinder hone, they make them that fit a particular size and others that fit a range of sizes.
    https://www.amazon.com/51mm-Flex-Hon.../dp/B002TOGK5Y
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCMY9NH...V98AWWJMET39PR

    -B
    Thank you for that! That would absolutely work, pushing the pin 1/2 way out, honing one side, then the other. If I can get a new pin, I'll do a closer inspection and see if I need to do that, I haven't looked at the sleeve close enough yet to see if it needs much/any cleaning up. Had no idea that tool even existed, this board continues to impress with ideas and experience!

  9. #29
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    OT - that is definitely ugly. If you are up to the task, pulling the entire lower and going to a machine shop is the way to go. They should be able to find a hone that'll clean it and also line you out on the shaft diameter you need. A machine shop that is the go-to for antique car and tractor guys would be the one that'll have a variety of odd hones considering the applications. There are also compressible drums that you mount emery paper to, insert in the bore, tighten to expand, and then crank by hand to clean up the bore. The name of those escapes me at the moment. Crude, but better than a rough, pitted surface on a new shaft.
    Rob & Nikki + Cloverfield
    2020 Grand Design Solitude S-Class 3350RL
    2015 RAM 3500 Longhorn Laramie Crew Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 Dually Cummins/AISIN

    Mountains of Pennsylvania

  10. #30
    Seasoned Camper 4x4dually's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by geotex1 View Post
    OT - that is definitely ugly. If you are up to the task, pulling the entire lower and going to a machine shop is the way to go. They should be able to find a hone that'll clean it and also line you out on the shaft diameter you need. A machine shop that is the go-to for antique car and tractor guys would be the one that'll have a variety of odd hones considering the applications. There are also compressible drums that you mount emery paper to, insert in the bore, tighten to expand, and then crank by hand to clean up the bore. The name of those escapes me at the moment. Crude, but better than a rough, pitted surface on a new shaft.
    I use the little brake caliper hones from the automotive stores on the end of a corless drill for things like this.
    2021 Reflection 367BHS
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