Where is all the propane going??

[cvretis]

My 2021 22 MLE was involved with the propane regulator recall. We were on the road, so I stopped at Camping World and got a replacement that was not the same brand. After I installed it, I lost propane like there was no tomorrow. Leak test spray did not indicate any leak at the connections or the new regulator. I replaced it with the old one and was not loosing excess propane.

I then went to a private RV shop and they sold me a Marshall Excelsior Company MEGR253P regulator. The shop owner said this is the only brand he will sell as the others are crap.

Apparently, when regulators leak, they can't always show up on the spray test solution. When I got home, my regular propane shop told me the same thing.

[RetiredWeR]

Just wondering if your have your fridge on AC/propane/ or auto. I can set mine on either. Just curious..

[fez111]

[QUOTE=llr2800;409480]Probably a leak. My prior trailer had the same issues. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't find it. I bought a leak detector.../QUOTE]

Using a mixture of dish detergent and warm water is the best checker for leaks. Usually 4-6 parts water to 1 part detergent will do nicely. If you don't have a brush just use your finger and splash it on every fitting, especially where the rubber hose enters each fitting. With the mixture any leaks will make very obvious bubbles. Make sure the little bleed screw on the tank valve is tight.

[Rrunr262]

Just wondering if your have your fridge on AC/propane/ or auto. I can set mine on either. Just curious..

I was thinking the same thing and also questioned if maybe they used the oven and left the pilot lit??
Start simple and work into the harder things to identify.


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[Just Krusen]

So could it stand to reason that whatever I have the thermostat set on, it could be trying to keep the underbelly the same temp?

This is most likely your problem. When set to electric heat it runs the heat pump. But the heat pump only works down to about 40 degrees. If the heat pump can not maintain the set temperature the furnace will kick in the supply the needed heat. You can test this by raising the set temperature to 5 or 6 degrees above the actual inside temperature. Both the heat pump and furnace should kick in. This is assuming that you do have a heat pump.
This is all explained in the owners manual for the heat pump thermostat.

[UnMayor]

Holy moly life has been crazy here. My time to tinker with the camper has been reduced to a couple hours on Sundays, which is my only free time right now.
So that being said, thank you all for the input. I've not had the chance to check for any leaks, but I did cut the temp down on the thermostat to 40, and that has certainly extended tank life.
It's been a week at least since I've been by to check it, but last Sunday one tank was empty and it had been a couple weeks since I'd last had them filled. So consumption has dropped, though I still want to check fittings just for due diligence.
Now that I've got a better understanding of the underbelly heat I feel more comfortable with the propane usage. Our regulator is a Fairview regulator, but one thing I can't recall the tech covering with me on demo day was if the regulator auto flips to the good tank once one is depleted. I believe it does, but can't specifically remember. Is that the case?

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[UnMayor]

To answer a couple questions:
Fridge is set to run on electric and the oven has not been used other than to verify operation on demo day. Also, I had requested a heat pump but it didn't make it into the build [emoji19]

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[Grandesigner]

Take a pic and show it here...

[UnMayor]

Finally getting around to this...

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[Grandesigner]

Yup, that looks like the typical auto switcher valve setup.