What can we do to avoid a problem?

[Leechantee]

We full time and are going to be leaving the RV for a week for a vacation. It is in the Carolinas and the temps have been around 40 during the day and mid 20s at night. Propane has been lasting 4-5 days max before we have to switch tanks (30lb). We do have tank heaters, and it is 2021 solitude with the insulating layer underneath, but it is not skirted in the location we are right now. With this, and a heated water hose we have had no issues whatsoever, but it is forecasted to get slightly colder this coming week (low of 19).

Things we have read say that pipes can burst and you should winterize, etc.... but how can the pipes burst if we turn the water off and all tanks are drained? Also, how do you “winterize” if you are living in the RV full time? Any help is appreciated.

[MoonShadow_1911]

Things we have read say that pipes can burst and you should winterize, etc.... but how can the pipes burst if we turn the water off and all tanks are drained? Also, how do you “winterize” if you are living in the RV full time? Any help is appreciated.

Think of it like a stix-n-brix house. If you are living in it, with the heat going, and you have a greater water hose, there is very little chance of any of the plumbing freezing. You have a Solitude, so you have an insulated belly and it is heated via the heater, when the heater is running. As long as you have the inside of the coach above 50°F, you should be fine.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

[Leechantee]

But if that propane runs out while we are away on say day 5 and it does drop below freezing.... what problems will we have and why do these problems happen if there is no water in any of the pipes or tanks (if we drain everything)?

[geotex1]

However, if you are like most and leaving it one for that period of time you're likely shutting off water and all open flame. So, you will have it dip into hard freeze territory and you don't need full lines to burst one from a freeze. I'd the water is in a localized spot, that's all it takes. As a full-timer, you winterize like anyone else with anti-freeze. The Nautilus was designed with ease in mind for such things. Follow the procedure and empty with low points, empty water heater, and take up the antifreeze being sure to have it flow from all faucets, include washer hookup and exterior faucet and spray port. A few gallons is all you need. When you get back, flush, sanitize, back to living normally.

[MoonShadow_1911]

But if that propane runs out while we are away on say day 5 and it does drop below freezing.... what problems will we have and why do these problems happen if there is no water in any of the pipes or tanks (if we drain everything)?

Ah, got it! When you drain the lines the is still water in them, the only way to remove the water is to used compressed air, at around 40 PSI, or RV antifreeze. If your tanks are empty, that isn't a big deal. If you are connected to shore power, keep the tank heaters on, just in case.

Generally, if you leave the thermostat set at 50°F, a total of 60 lbs of propane should last over a week. Just make sure that both tanks are open and full before you leave.

What @geotex1 said above! (He beat me to it.)

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

[Leechantee]

We have a total of 60# but we were under the impression that we can only open one 30# tank at a time. Anyone know if there is a way to have both open at a time?

[Second Chance]

We do this frequently. I turn off the water and disconnect our heated hose (and unplug it). I turn off the water heater. I then set the furnace to 45 degrees. This will keep the utilities in the basement from freezing - even in the teens and low 20s. In this configuration with highs in the 40s and lows in the 20s to low 30s, two tanks will last two weeks no sweat (the regulator is auto-switching).

Rob

[Second Chance]

We have a total of 60# but we were under the impression that we can only open one 30# tank at a time. Anyone know if there is a way to have both open at a time?

I don't know where you got that "impression." The regulator is auto-switching and designed to have both tanks open at the same time. Find the manual for the regulator in your paperwork packet and read up on it.

Rob

[Leechantee]

Well the knob turns one direction for one tank, and to switch the other way you turn that way.... we just assumed leaving the lever in the center meant they were both off? Is that not the way it works?

[Second Chance]

Well the knob turns one direction for one tank, and to switch the other way you turn that way.... we just assumed leaving the lever in the center meant they were both off? Is that not the way it works?

No. Turning the knob one direction tells the regulator to use that tank first. When that tank is empty, the regulator will automatically switch and the indicator will turn red. You then turn the knob the other way (the indicator will turn green again) and replace the empty tank. The cycle will work the same way when the designated primary tank is empty. I don't know what leaving the lever in the center position does - if anything.

Rob