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  1. #1
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    Solar package question

    I have read several post about the solar package. We recently purchased a 2022 311BHS, it comes with one solar panel and a couple batteries. I have read that the refrigerator only works on the 12v/120vsystem and not the propane option like we are use to. What all do I need to do from start to finish and what equipment do I need to purchase to have this system work off the grid for a couple days? I would like to make it pretty simple as it auto switches when I would plug in but when I unplug it goes to the batteries. Any help and experience on what has worked would be greatly appreciated.

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    Commercial Member huntr70's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pegedclark View Post
    I have read several post about the solar package. We recently purchased a 2022 311BHS, it comes with one solar panel and a couple batteries. I have read that the refrigerator only works on the 12v/120vsystem and not the propane option like we are use to. What all do I need to do from start to finish and what equipment do I need to purchase to have this system work off the grid for a couple days? I would like to make it pretty simple as it auto switches when I would plug in but when I unplug it goes to the batteries. Any help and experience on what has worked would be greatly appreciated.
    So, if you have a newer Reflection (built after September 1st of 2021) with the Furrion 12 volt fridge, it is only 12 volt, not 110 at all. It does not "switch over" to anything.

    It is strictly a 12 volt compressor fridge and will continue to run on 12 volt even when you are plugged in to shore power.
    Steve- Inventory Manager at Tom Schaeffer's RV, Shoemakersville, PA www.tomschaeffers.com
    [email protected]
    2011 RAM 3500 SRW Outdoorsman Edition 4X4, 6.7 Cummins--TWEAKED!
    2021 Reflection 310RLS

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    You'll want to test how fast the batteries are drawn down when not connected to shore power. I've got the same set up in my 2022 260RD and the two 12v batteries died somewhere in the first 5 days while the trailer was in storage. So I know for a fact that the OEM solar won't keep up with even just the fridge draw on the batteries for very long. I intend to stay in a full hookup rv park as soon as possible and then stay off shore power to get an idea of how the batteries hold up. At least then I can plug in and charge when needed.

  4. #4
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pegedclark View Post
    I have read several post about the solar package. We recently purchased a 2022 311BHS, it comes with one solar panel and a couple batteries. I have read that the refrigerator only works on the 12v/120vsystem and not the propane option like we are use to. What all do I need to do from start to finish and what equipment do I need to purchase to have this system work off the grid for a couple days? I would like to make it pretty simple as it auto switches when I would plug in but when I unplug it goes to the batteries. Any help and experience on what has worked would be greatly appreciated.
    Unfortunately, from what I have read, the OEM Solar package are minimalist systems at best. Relying on them requires you to be quite judicious with your energy usage.

    I would definitely suggest you perform a test like Mmullen suggested above. The best way to perform a "real world" test on your systems is while you are camping. I recommend going to a campground with shore power and not plugging in. This way you can test the systems and if you run out of power you can simply plug into shore power and not interrupt your neighbors by running a generator.

    I would guess that with your OEM Solar and a pair of Dealer supplied Lead Acid batteries (and your 12v fridge) you would get, at best, two days of camping before you run out of battery. This quickly drops to a single day (or less) if you need to run your furnace (the furnace is an energy hog).

    To give yourself a fighting chance, I would recommend at least 200ah of Lithium batteries (LiFePo4) and an upgraded Lithium capable Converter (your OEM converter may be Lithium capable already). You will also need to ensure your Solar Charge Controller is capable of charging your new Lithium batteries. I would also look into adding another Solar panel to my system. However, you might find that adding another panel to your system could cost you way, way, too much money, i.e.: Furrion Solar panels can cost ~ $600 for a small 165 Watt panel. This Furrion panel works out to over $3.50 per Watt, whereas, I purchased my 305 Watt panels for around $0.69 cents per Watt -- BIG difference.

    The good news is you don't have to do all these upgrades all at once (see the posting: "Installing a Solar System in Phases" [link below]). Additionally, you don't have to spend big money on upgrading to Lithium batteries, you can buy Lithium batteries that are much more wallet friendly than the "Big Name" batteries that are most popular (see the posting: "Cheap Batteries are Coming, Cheap..." [also linked below]).

    Congratulations on your new coach and please keep us posted on how your test turns out and what upgrades you decide to make based on your results.

    Link to Installing a Solar System in Phases:

    https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...356#post406356

    Link to Cheap Batteries are Coming, Cheap batteries...

    https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...322#post341322
    Last edited by SolarPoweredRV; 01-19-2022 at 05:57 AM.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SolarPoweredRV View Post
    Unfortunately, from what I have read, the OEM Solar package are minimalist systems at best. Relying on them requires you to be quite judicious with your energy usage.

    I would definitely suggest you perform a test like Mmullen suggested above. The best way to perform a "real world" test on your systems is while you are camping. I recommend going to a campground with shore power and not plugging in. This way you can test the systems and if you run out of power you can simply plug into shore power and not interrupt your neighbors by running a generator.

    I would guess that with your OEM Solar and a pair of Dealer supplied Lead Acid batteries (and your 12v fridge) you would get, at best, two days of camping before you run out of battery. This quickly drops to a single day (or less) if you need to run your furnace (the furnace is an energy hog).

    To give yourself a fighting chance, I would recommend at least 200ah of Lithium batteries (LiFePo4) and an upgraded Lithium capable Converter (your OEM converter may be Lithium capable already). You will also need to ensure your Solar Charge Controller is capable of charging your new Lithium batteries. I would also look into adding another Solar panel to my system. However, you might find that adding another panel to your system could cost you way, way, too much money, i.e.: Furrion Solar panels can cost ~ $600 for a small 165 Watt panel. This Furrion panel works out to over $3.50 per Watt, whereas, I purchased my 305 Watt panels for around $0.69 cents per Watt -- BIG difference.

    The good news is you don't have to do all these upgrades all at once (see the posting: "Installing a Solar System in Phases" [link below]). Additionally, you don't have to spend big money on upgrading to Lithium batteries, you can buy Lithium batteries that are much more wallet friendly than the "Big Name" batteries that are most popular (see the posting: "Cheap Batteries are Coming, Cheap..." [also linked below]).

    Congratulations on your new coach and please keep us posted on how your test turns out and what upgrades you decide to make based on your results.

    Link to Installing a Solar System in Phases:

    https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...356#post406356

    Link to Cheap Batteries are Coming, Cheap batteries...

    https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...322#post341322

    Thanks for the infor, Like I had said I am new to this solar stuff on a RV. So, Let me just go through this. The refrigerator is always on 12 volt and I do not need the convertor at this point to make it work. If I wan the plugs to work through out I will need to buy a convertor. Lithium batteries appear to be the best bang for your buck but they are expensive but will last and hold up better. Depending on how long I want to be boondocking depends on how much battery storage I will need. Same goes for the solar panels, Depends on how much or how fast I want to recharge the system / use would reflect on how much energy I need to get. The charging system that Comes with the GD appears to have multi functions for types of batteries. Would anyone recommend upgrading this(would need to if going with more power), is there a convertor, controller, or battery monitoring system that is better to buy and place in the Grand Design?

  6. #6
    Site Sponsor SolarPoweredRV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pegedclark View Post
    Thanks for the infor, Like I had said I am new to this solar stuff on a RV. So, Let me just go through this. The refrigerator is always on 12 volt and I do not need the convertor at this point to make it work. If I wan the plugs to work through out I will need to buy a convertor. Lithium batteries appear to be the best bang for your buck but they are expensive but will last and hold up better. Depending on how long I want to be boondocking depends on how much battery storage I will need. Same goes for the solar panels, Depends on how much or how fast I want to recharge the system / use would reflect on how much energy I need to get. The charging system that Comes with the GD appears to have multi functions for types of batteries. Would anyone recommend upgrading this(would need to if going with more power), is there a convertor, controller, or battery monitoring system that is better to buy and place in the Grand Design?
    Based on this post and your original post, I am going to guess that someone said to you: "your refrigerator runs off of 12 volts and when you are plugged into shore power it automatically runs from shore power", or something to that effect. Technically, that statement is correct, however the method that this happens is through the Converter. When you are not on shore power, your refrigerator runs off of the battery; when you are on shore power, your Converter is constantly re-charging the battery while simultaneously providing 12 volt power to everything inside the camper.

    Basically, your refrigerator has two sources of energy, your battery and the Converter. If the camper is plugged into shore power, the Converter is supplying the power, if not, the battery is supplying the power. Regarding your Solar system: when your Solar system is operational, it acts just like the Converter, in that, it also acts as a source of electricity for your 12 volt system (by re-charging the batteries).

    I am also sensing a little bit of misunderstanding about what the Converter is and what it does: your Converter simply takes 120 volts and "converts" it into 12 volts. This 12 volts is then used by the 12v appliances (and lights) inside the coach while also re-charging the battery.

    The reason I mentioned you might need to upgrade your Converter to a "Lithium capable" Converter is because the OEM Converter usually is not capable of properly charging Lithium batteries (Lithium batteries operate on higher voltage than Lead Acid batteries, so, the OEM Converter can only charge the Lithium batteries to about 53% State of Charge). However, some new coaches are coming equipped with Converters that can charge Lithium batteries [multi functional, like your Solar charge controller]. You will need to determine if your Converter has a Lithium/multi functional setting. If you do need to upgrade, I recommend the Progressive Dynamics Converters.

    When it comes to the wall plugs inside your coach, they are only supplied by shore power, if you are not on shore power they are all dead. Now if you want to have 120 volt power while boondocking you can install an Inverter. An "Inverter" takes the 12 volts from your battery(ies) and produces 120 volts, very useful for your microwave and coffee maker.

    While I agree that Lithium batteries can be expensive, they are far superior to Lead Acid batteries when it comes to the energy needs of an RV. Even if you only have a single 100ah Lithium battery you will have a much better experience with the 12 volt system in your coach than you would with a Lead Acid battery.

    As far as recommending upgrades: I think it is too soon to think about upgrading your system, beyond the recommendations I made in my previous post, until you have had a chance to test your system and determine your family's needs. Once you start camping with your new coach the deficiencies will start to show themselves i.e.: if your wife and three teenage daughters can't live without their 6,000 Watt hair dryers you are going to need more batteries and Solar (6,000 Watt hair dryers might be a little overstated).

    As far as monitoring your system goes, I would recommend getting a Lithium battery(ies) that have BlueTooth connectivity, this may be all you need to monitor your system, otherwise, I recommend the Victron Battery Monitor with BlueTooth connectivity. Once you install Lithium batteries, the 4 LED lights on the OEM battery monitor will show full all the time, due to Lithium batteries operating at higher voltage than Lead Acid.

    I hope this clears up some things.
    Last edited by SolarPoweredRV; 01-19-2022 at 12:54 PM.
    David and Peggy
    2019 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.7L Diesel, Dually, Long Bed
    Running with 20k Reese Goosebox (Love It) and Ford Factory "Puck" system.
    Stopping with 8,000 lb Disc Brakes and Titan Hydraulic over Electric Brakes system.
    Powering all this fun with 1200 Watts of Solar, two Tesla, Model S, battery modules, 24 volt Victron Inverter.
    2018 Solitude 310 GK

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