Newbie gonna try to repack bearings..Looking for Advice..

[Steven@147]

Just to clarify, my Dexter self adjusting brakes don't even have an adjustment window in the backplate...no need to ever back off or adjust my Dexter self adjusting.

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now that is interesting, our 2019 with its Dexter axles and Dexter self adjusting brakes, do have the adjustment holes in the back plate.

[Hitsman3]

You shouldn't have to remove the race to inspect the bearing...or the race itself. The wear surface is easy to see and remains inside the drum. Only replace the race if you replace the bearing. To get to the rear bearing just use the seal puller to remove the seal. The bearing should come right out. Hope that helps.


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You are correct, it was the race I was thinking of since one of the bearings was showing wear I went ahead & replaced both. On another question, how often are you guys replacing brakes? We are going on our third year & when I inspected last year they still looked good. We probably have around 8,000 miles are so on them.

[DECelt]

now that is interesting, our 2019 with its Dexter axles and Dexter self adjusting brakes, do have the adjustment holes in the back plate.

Well...that was my 2016 Bighorn. My two previous had Nevr-lube and I never looked.

I have yet to work on the bearings on my Solitude. I was frankly somewhat amazed when I looked at the bighorn. . Regardless, I've never had to back off my brakes to remove the drum. Except on my 69 Mustang [emoji1].


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[DECelt]

You are correct, it was the race I was thinking of since one of the bearings was showing wear I went ahead & replaced both. On another question, how often are you guys replacing brakes? We are going on our third year & when I inspected last year they still looked good. We probably have around 8,000 miles are so on them.

I've never had to replace trailer brakes, but I usually only keep them 4-5 years. I do put on some miles... probably 8-10 thousand yearly, but mostly highway. My Solitude brakes seem much stronger than any other trailer brake I've had, so this one could be different. I'm told that the best way to replace them is to replace the whole backing plate assembly...four screws or something like that.

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[Steven@147]

I've never had to replace trailer brakes, but I usually only keep them 4-5 years. I do put on some miles... probably 8-10 thousand yearly, but mostly highway. My Solitude brakes seem much stronger than any other trailer brake I've had, so this one could be different. I'm told that the best way to replace them is to replace the whole backing plate assembly...four screws or something like that.

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That is what I did, replaced the whole backing plate assy. We had our right front brake go bad. I ordered from e-trailer Dexter loaded self-adj backing plates. 5 nuts, splice and seal the wires, install drum, initially adjust brakes, then test for actuation, done! That was over a year ago and at that time there was a back order for Dexter self-adj brake assy. They were only @ $100 each back then. I ended up ordering 4, two lefts, two rights, used one and have three spares just in case. I see now they are @ $150 each. I was amazed that the brake assy and the brake drum I had to replace all had "Made In The USA" on the new parts.
I don't replace the brakes unless the shoes are worn thin or they are cracked and peeling.

[Tim2542]

Another vote for pulling and repacking. Couple of tips, 1 you don’t need a seal puller. Remove the outer nut, pull the outer bearing and put the nut back on. Now you can jerk the drum off and the the nut will hang on the inner bearing and pull the seal out.
2 use solvent to remove all the grease and dry before inspecting and repacking. This is to insure all of the old grease is removed, which you want because you do not know what grease type is in there and they are not all compatible. Which another reason not to use the Dexter Ez lube…there is no way to know what’s in there until you do it yourself.
The part you really need to inspect is the inner race of the roller bearing, that is the part that slides onto the spindle, not the part that is pressed into the drum. Bearings almost always show spalling or other damage here first, and it’s the hardest area to clean and then inspect because you’re looking down between the rollers. If its good here, your not likely to find anything else.
Bearing adjustment is Ez, just snug the nut up good & tight, no torque wrench needed. Spin the wheel a bit. This insures everything is seated. Now back off until the nut goes loose, then run it back until you just feel the nut begin to tighten. Your goal is to remove all free play or “lash”. A little tighter or looser to index the cotter pin hole is fine.
Lots of rags or towels, disposable gloves, paper towels and some cardboard to work on is good, a bearing packer is cheap and is worth having. Any name brand wheel bearing grease is just fine, nothing exotic is needed, but just make sure you remember what’s in there for next time you repack so you don’t mix types.