Undersized WD Bars

[Retched1]

Hello all, Question on WD bar sizing

I JUST bought a 2022 Transcend Xplor 265BH
I tow with my 2017 Tundra Crew 4x4, tow package Truck is rated at 10k/1100 on the sticker
I have 10 ply tires I run at 55 psi when towing, airbags at 25-30 psi when towing (tundra has soft rear-end springs), and a rear sway bar
Use a P3 controller, not the built-in turd
Towed our old 5k Jayco 267BHSW fine.

The dealer installed a Husky Centerline TS with 400-600lb bars... when I picked this trailer up a few days ago
(I drove 400 miles from Washington to Oregon to purchase this trailer)

As the 265BH has a 6300/8000 weight and 638 tongue weight dry, and I load 200+ pounds in the bed, I feel the dealer goofed up on the hitch.
(I specifically asked for a 10k/1k WD)
The 400 mile drive home was pretty bad as far as "porpus-ing", and a light front end. Almost like the bars were more of a spring and not moving weight
I was going to take it apart and add a spacer to increase the weight shifting to the front but then noticed a 400-600 sticker on the bars

I am NOT blaming the dealer or naming them, they were great, I think it was just a mistake.
I have contacted them and they are going to make it right once we figure out a solution
I'd just like to know If I am correct in believing these are undersized bars, even with a dry weight of 638

This should be as easy as new bars and re-setup I'd think.

800-1000 or 1000-1200 bars?
I was leaning towards 1000-1200 as I tend to carry too much crap in the bed...

Suggestions?

[Cshyman62]

In my opinion 10 ply tires with only 55 psi, your running to low of an air pressure causing your drive axle to bounce a lot,,Try more like 75 psi. I would consider a higher w/ d bar as well ( total weight of trailer—8000lbs——equals 800 to 1000 lb bars) . Secondly I would set up truck and trailer using hitch height and bar set up, than consider if and how much you will use your air ride. Just my opinion good luck

[wudwork]

The only time we approach max weight is with lots of water in tanks. That always happens when we are in campground and within 1/4" mile of campsite. We don't need bars for that distance/terrain. If your bathroom is in the rear and you travel with some white, once you flush a few times, "neutral" water in white transfers to "rear heavy" in black. That will reduce tongue weight, but add sway. If you put 1k bars, they won't flex at all thus Por poising will be an issue. With this in mind, I would want no more than 800lb bars. If they have 600-800 bars, that would be my choice as you will likely live in the "sweet" spot for those bars.

Also, while your trailer is unloaded, what is the setting on your 600lb bars ? Are they set to max weight distribution ? (rear supports as high as they can go ?). Might try that first ?

[Hitsman3]

I'm using the Husky Centerline but I got the 800# bars for our trailer. Our tongue weight is around #730-#800 depending on what the wife packs.

[Retched1]

In my opinion 10 ply tires with only 55 psi, your running to low of an air pressure causing your drive axle to bounce a lot,,Try more like 75 psi. I would consider a higher w/ d bar as well ( total weight of trailer—8000lbs——equals 800 to 1000 lb bars) . Secondly I would set up truck and trailer using hitch height and bar set up, than consider if and how much you will use your air ride. Just my opinion good luck

Costco filled them to 30/33 cause that's what is on the door sticker for passenger tires (stock).
An online P to LT air pressure conversion said to run 49 PSI for the "same" weight rating of a P to LT tire, so I settled on 55 for towing.
I can most defiantly try going up, especially when towing. Given I world normally air the old P tires to 45-48 for towing, taking these higher now makes sense.

I need to hear back from the dealer and see why they set it up with 400-600 bars (oversight or reasons), cause it seems way too low, with the 600-800 being more of a minimum I'd think. Reading others' posts sounds like that may be the best try, replacement 600-800 bars.

On the setting, on the frame, they are middle, three holes top and bottom, I just looked

***The air ride is not meant to increase payload, just take the sag/bounce in the back, but I agree, set it up without that adding any lift/cushion, following measurements, and then add air to hold that position.

Thanks for the feedback

[Cshyman62]

Yes indeed ,I run my 10 ply at or just under the recommended pressure on the side of the tire when towing , and as for using air lift I have my set up with the air bags just taking the main leaf springs pressure off the bottom help spring. ( about 30 psi). When I was towing our forest river t.t. which had a dry wt.6600lb.s loaded about 7900 lb.s about where you are with your rig I was using a heavier set of bars ——(1000lb. WD,). Hope this helps you have safe and happy travels.

[Ynot4me2]

We have a 22mle with an average tw around 760. Our wdh is a Husky Center Line with the 800-1200 bars. It took me 3 tries after the dealer setup to finally tune in the wdh properly. Don't trust the dealer setup is the lesson I learned. Hit the CaT scale with the 3 weights and redo your wdh setup. Send Husky your pics and weight and they will help you tune it in.

Sent from my SM-P610 using Tapatalk

[tamrick]

Hello all, Question on WD bar sizing

I JUST bought a 2022 Transcend Xplor 265BH
I tow with my 2017 Tundra Crew 4x4, tow package Truck is rated at 10k/1100 on the sticker
I have 10 ply tires I run at 55 psi when towing, airbags at 25-30 psi when towing (tundra has soft rear-end springs), and a rear sway bar
Use a P3 controller, not the built-in turd
Towed our old 5k Jayco 267BHSW fine.

The dealer installed a Husky Centerline TS with 400-600lb bars... when I picked this trailer up a few days ago
(I drove 400 miles from Washington to Oregon to purchase this trailer)

As the 265BH has a 6300/8000 weight and 638 tongue weight dry, and I load 200+ pounds in the bed, I feel the dealer goofed up on the hitch.
(I specifically asked for a 10k/1k WD)
The 400 mile drive home was pretty bad as far as "porpus-ing", and a light front end. Almost like the bars were more of a spring and not moving weight
I was going to take it apart and add a spacer to increase the weight shifting to the front but then noticed a 400-600 sticker on the bars

I am NOT blaming the dealer or naming them, they were great, I think it was just a mistake.
I have contacted them and they are going to make it right once we figure out a solution
I'd just like to know If I am correct in believing these are undersized bars, even with a dry weight of 638

This should be as easy as new bars and re-setup I'd think.

800-1000 or 1000-1200 bars?
I was leaning towards 1000-1200 as I tend to carry too much crap in the bed...

Suggestions?

Before you make a decision on which bars to use, you must weigh your trailer loaded as if ready to go camping. Sure its a PITA but if you don't weigh, your just guessing and the process just takes longer. But , if you just go by the numbers, I'd go with the 800-1000 since you add a lot of weight to the truck bed.

From your description of your trip, you definitely didn't have enough weight transferred to the front end of the truck.

[Retched1]

Before you make a decision on which bars to use, you must weigh your trailer loaded as if ready to go camping. Sure its a PITA but if you don't weigh, your just guessing and the process just takes longer. But , if you just go by the numbers, I'd go with the 800-1000 since you add a lot of weight to the truck bed.

From your description of your trip, you definitely didn't have enough weight transferred to the front end of the truck.

Yeah,
I think I need to add some air as suggested and change the bars.

I JUST spoke with Husky and they said those 400-600 bars did nothing really...
She said the 600-800 will work but recommended the 800-1200 (no 800-1000 available)
The reason for the 800-1200 is that is the "Tested" weight of those bars. If I used the 600-800 there was no promise they wouldn't break at 900 lbs, etc.
Also that the 800-1200 meet the max of the trailer plus some junk in the trunk.

I have a CAT scale close, they don't mind public usage on the weekends for this stuff, so I'll plan a trip down there with some tools to make a few passes after I re-measure, adjust and get the new bars installed.

[BobLandry]

I've always run my tires at the max cold pressure shown on the tire. It reduces the tire/road contact and in my mind reduces heat which increases tire life. That's my opinion and I'm not going to argue with those who disagree. To each his own. I just decided early in the game that I was not going to go to the scales and calculate what each tire should be inflated to based on what the spousal unit loaded in the trailer.
There's really no gain to turning tire pressure into rocket science.