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  1. #21
    Fireside Member jlk111's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A.Texas.Yankee View Post
    There is a science behind hot water freezing faster, but a smarter man than I would have to explain it.

    Plastic tubing can actually expand enough to prevent rupture. It's your connections, fittings, and crimps that are the weak links. Check those first. Look for any tubing that can spin easily.



    First thing I would check in that case is the connections to your water heater. There is the infamous plastic check valve on the water heaters that fail.

    Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
    I had the hot and cold water piping going to the kitchen sink touching the metal heater box, along with electrical wires...I cut the lines plastic fittings off and put 5/8" brass hose barbs and 30" faucet supply hoses to re-route the water lines. The hot water heater had no check-valve at cold input nipple. I bought a brass check-valve and replaced the pvc fitting at the output also. Not sure if there is a check-valve anywhere in the underbelly but felt having one at the water heater as others were seeing would help prevent a water heater element failure.

    I now know I need to remove the coroplast and correctly assemble the underneath of the trailer. We have been in the high teens and did not have and freezing pipes at least. I really like Rob's idea of laying insulation down on the coroplast after the pipes are wrapped.

    What are other peoples thoughts on blow-foam sealing all the holes in the floor where wires and plumbing go up thru the floor? In freezing conditions it would force the under-belly heat out the gaps in the coroplast helping keep cold temps out? We drove about 50 miles on dusty gravel roads and filled the trailer with dust. It was in the drawers, cupboards, walls...Spent well over an hour cleaning up enough to make it livable so we could finish our trip. It came in from the gaps between the frame and the coroplast.
    2007 Ram 5.9 CTD 4x4 LB
    2019 Imagine 2500RL

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by KDRunner View Post
    Well, it warmed up into 30s today and hotwater is now working in kitchen. I guess it was frozen. Odd thing that the cold did not freeze. Now it's time to figure out why a 4 seasons rated camper can't handle Temps in 20's with heat on.

    Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
    My 2016 303RLS has "Arctic" insulation so I'm not sure if this is the same as four season rated or not. My manual says the unit is not designed to be used in freezing weather. FWIW.
    Last edited by Johnrb; 04-04-2022 at 07:23 AM.
    John & Nadine Bagby
    2016 Reflection 303RLS
    2006 Chevy 2500HD CCLB Diesel

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    Why hot water lines freeze first:

    https://www.scientificamerican.com/a...0some%20cases.

    "Four Seasons" is a marketing ploy.

    Rob
    This article does not definitely say that hot water freezes faster than cold. It only says that hot MAY freeze faster than cold under certain circumstances. But the circumstances given (open pans of water) do not apply to water systems in a RV.

    But I do agree that "Four Seasons" is marketing hype. My 2016 303 has a sticker on it that says "Arctic Insulation Four Seasons Protection" while the manual says that it is not DESIGNED to be used in freezing weather. The brochure I got in 2016 even says "Zero degree extended season enjoyment". Mine froze well above zero degrees when my propane tanks failed to automatically switch during the night.

    I do appreciate your comments on posts, though.
    John & Nadine Bagby
    2016 Reflection 303RLS
    2006 Chevy 2500HD CCLB Diesel

  4. #24
    Fireside Member sirtate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KDRunner View Post
    Removed a couple of screws under camper. Water lines are laying right on top of the bottom of camper. There is not and insulation under the camper! Of course my lines are going to freeze!
    Isn't this supposed to be insulated?

    Attachment 39746Attachment 39747Attachment 39748

    Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
    The hot water line is the one touching the belly pan, which explains why it froze first.

    Depending on how much work you feel like doing to remedy the situation, you could go buy a couple of 3ft "pool noodles", and cut them down one side lengthwise and poke those waterlines into the middle of them. This will keep those lines warmer much longer, and the simple act of running one of those faucets, either the hot or cold will bring warmer water into the run to keep the other from freezing...

    Or, you can start to tear things apart and re-route those lines higher up in the 'basement'. (this is the better way to go, but sometimes pool noodles work best)
    2021 Transcend 261bh
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  5. #25
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    Thanks for all the helpful replies. I can insulate whether lines and even more them no problem. Will do that this summer. Other issue with water co.ing out by low points and rear end no water leaks were found ny the dealer. Went to eave this weekend whole raining and water wad pouring out back end in middle where wires come down after I hooked up. Have had this happen several times. Goi g back to dealer this week. Still warranty issue. Really, I'm getting upset with this now.
    Lots of unnecessary issues with camper from poor installation work. I will probably end up fixing things the correct t way myself. Trying to figure out where the water is coming from. Not sure if videos can be uploaded here.
    Can only get photos to upload.Click image for larger version. 

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    Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

  6. #26
    Fireside Member jlk111's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KDRunner View Post
    Thanks for all the helpful replies. I can insulate whether lines and even more them no problem. Will do that this summer. Other issue with water co.ing out by low points and rear end no water leaks were found ny the dealer. Went to eave this weekend whole raining and water wad pouring out back end in middle where wires come down after I hooked up. Have had this happen several times. Goi g back to dealer this week. Still warranty issue. Really, I'm getting upset with this now.
    Lots of unnecessary issues with camper from poor installation work. I will probably end up fixing things the correct t way myself. Trying to figure out where the water is coming from. Not sure if videos can be uploaded here.
    Can only get photos to upload.Click image for larger version. 

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    Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
    Pretty sad quality control anymore. They newer models should be better as that one has been built for at least 7 years. It seems they figure out how to cut corners with each new model year instead of making them better. Unfortunately it is a "covid" build. Not an excuse by any means.
    I would look where any elbows or fittings are for your leak. The pex pipe is pretty forgiving with freezing but the fittings cannot expand without cracking. Looks like you need to do the repair yourself so you know its done right. Good luck, hope it goes well.
    2007 Ram 5.9 CTD 4x4 LB
    2019 Imagine 2500RL

  7. #27
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    Water leak found. Dealer replaced with brass. Was never installed properly. Low water point. The clamp just spun around I was told. Hopefully solves issue of leaking. I'll still have to insulate pex tubing this summer. Looks like the Coroplast has bubble foil wrap insulation. Click image for larger version. 

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    Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

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