Wet bolt install question

[Redapple63]

Update
With the lock n lube I now have 12 of 14 bolts lubed up. The 2 that won't take grease are the Moryde type, one spring end and the other type. I will probably have to R&R them with new. I also suspect not all have bushings based on some play that I saw. Quality factory assembly, MA.

On the locking nut issue, I used the first one as sacrificial to drive the splines into the bracket, then replaced it with a fresh one and matched the opposite end distance between the bracket legs. If tightened too much, you can squeeze the legs onto the spring with as much pressure as you like. Torquing locking nuts is tricky as there is always a running torque anyway.

Thanks for the update. Which locknlube did you get? Interested. Agreed with the running torque on the locking nuts. In the future, one method would be to use a regular free running nut to seat the splines, then spin on the locker until it seats, then apply a torque value.

Great work! It always surprises me how easy things are made with simple methods and how much more robust designs are with the same simplicity applied.

Thanks
Bill

[Grandesigner]

Thanks for the update. Which locknlube did you get? Interested. Agreed with the running torque on the locking nuts. In the future, one method would be to use a regular free running nut to seat the splines, then spin on the locker until it seats, then apply a torque value.

Great work! It always surprises me how easy things are made with simple methods and how much more robust designs are with the same simplicity applied.

Thanks
Bill

Thanks Bill.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7LPKKU...roduct_details

Yeah, I didn't have a regular nut, turns out.
I also don't have the kind of torque wrench required to measure running torque, which I would add to the called out torque normally. Only problem is that it might have squeezed the hanger bracket too much, who knows. I just made sure to match the other brackets.
I still don't have a lot of stuff even though I've been collecting tools for about 40 years now. And then, I might have more than one since I misplace some tools, sometimes. lol

Now on to the those 2 outliers...

[Hoopy Frood]

I'm confused by your term "running torque". Torque readings should be taken when the nut/bolt is turning. Checking the torque of a stationary bolt/nut will give you false readings.

[Redapple63]

I'm confused by your term "running torque". Torque readings should be taken when the nut/bolt is turning. Checking the torque of a stationary bolt/nut will give you false readings.

Hi Hoopy,

Yes, we are on the same page.

[Grandesigner]

Here is a good explanation...it only applies to self-locking nuts. The 3rd paragraph nails it on the head.

https://aviation.stackexchange.com/q...ng-torque-mean

Regardless, I suspect it does not apply as it would probably squeeze the leaf spring eye and bind it up. This bolt sees mostly sheer and very little tension, more like a rivet actually. The locking feature of the nut will prevent loosening in normal operation.
I will paint mark both ends to look for any movement...

[Pap and Mimi]

Just went through my "Spring" maint routine and I'm happy to say that all my grease fittings accepted grease. I installed all the holes facing the front of the camper to comply with the "3 or 9 o'clock" in the instructions at the time of install.
I had considered taking a parting tool to the bolts for a 360 degree grease groove, but was afraid it might weaken the bolt. I ended up adding a generous chamfer to each hole since a couple had burrs.

[Grandesigner]

That's great Pap. I have 2 stubborn ones left to work out. Tried them with no wheels during bearing pack so I guess I'll try them with weight on wheels next...

[JHC210]

I will be upgrading my suspension in the next couple of weeks with the MORryde CRE3000 plus wet bolt kit. In anticipation of difficult leaf spring bolts, I am thinking I should get a ball joint removal tool, maybe this one from Amazon "Heavy Duty Ball Joint Press & U Joint Removal Tool Kit with 4x4 Adapters, for Most 2WD and 4WD Cars and Light Trucks"[/I][/I]. Tried to post the link but not sure how, just yet.

[FlyStar]

I used a ball joint press to get my wet bolt out of the spring hanger. Worked great. Others have left the nut on the end of the bolt and hammered them out careful not to hit the end of the bolt and mess up the threads. Seems hammering on the bolt may mess them up anyway which is why I used a press. But then I used a new bolt anyway. The press is a more elegant method but you have to buy the tool.


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[Hoopy Frood]

A dead-blow hammer on the end of the bolt, with nut attached, is quicker, easier, and cheaper than buying a ball joint removal tool. The bolt shouldn't be frozen in place in the spring. If it is, you've got other problems to deal with.