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04-02-2022, 03:23 PM #1
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O-ring on jack shaft twisted, a PITA to fix?
Retracted all the jacks today and noticed a dribble of fluid on one of the foot plates. Leveled the camper back up and discovered the o ring was inverted.
How much of a pain is this going to be to address?
Could debris on the shaft during retraction cause this?
Insight is much appreciated, we have a trip coming up soon!
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk2014 F-350 Platinum SRW
2021 Solitude 378-MBS-R
"Keep not standing fixed and rooted. Briskly venture, briskly roam."
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04-02-2022, 03:45 PM #2
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Lack of lubrication and/or sand or dust on the shaft (essentially the piston of the system) will cause increased friction. If the O-ring is on the outside, it happened the last time the jacks were extended. I've not done it, but my guess is that the jack has to be disassembled to replace the O-ring. There are several folks on the forum who are engineers and/or have lots of experience with hydraulics... perhaps one of them will chime in.
In the meantime, the LCI manual calls for cleaning and wiping down the struts with silicone lube every 4 - 6 weeks.
RobU.S. Army Retired
2012 F350 DRW CC LB Lariat PS 6.7
2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes,
Sailun LRG tires, solar, DP windows, W/D
(Previously in a Reflection 337RLS)
Full time since 08/2015
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04-02-2022, 03:49 PM #3
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I don't see any way to replace that O-ring without disassembly of the unit. And a thorough check of the ram surface and oil supply for problems that would cause that. After looking closer, it's possible that is an oil seal and not an O-ring, and might be replaceable without disassembly, but no way I can tell from just a picture.
Howard and Peggy
2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S
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04-02-2022, 09:23 PM #4
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My understanding is Lippert doesn't sell rebuild parts anymore. They only sell complete units. There was an old thread here where someone sourced parts & rebuilt one.
I spray mine with Zep 45 & wipe 'em down every time before they are retracted, & still had one start to leak on our last trip. My repair guy has one ordered. 10-day delivery window, if they're in stock...about time that extended warranty paid for itself
If your leaking fluid every time you extend, they are sucking in dirt & crud when retracted.Paul, Sue & Wonder Dog Zane
'18 Solitude 310 GK
"15 F-350 6.7, DRW, CC
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04-03-2022, 05:38 PM #5
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The o ring seal in the picture is NOT what’s causing your fluid leak.. that is the wiper seal only and up inside there is another larger seal that is causing the fluid leak.. a decent hydraulic shop can rebuild the cylinder if you remove it and take to them..
Also as stated by another OP the key to longevity of the wiper seal is keeping the outer cylinder pistons clean..
I wipe mine down with motorcycle fork oil prior to retracting.. this cleans off the exposed piston and also lubricates that outer wiper seal
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04-03-2022, 06:03 PM #6
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Thanks for the insight guys. Our camper has been staged at my parents house for the last few months, so the leveling system has not been cycled in awhile. What dribbled out only happened upon retraction, and was not evident once leveled. So I'm willing to bet the shafts had collected debris that I now realize needs to be cleared prior to breakdown.
We have a trip at the end of the month and I've only got 1 day a week free. Is this something that needs attention ASAP? My hands are encumbered as is.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk2014 F-350 Platinum SRW
2021 Solitude 378-MBS-R
"Keep not standing fixed and rooted. Briskly venture, briskly roam."
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05-26-2022, 01:24 PM #7
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Well as an update, it re-seated itself at some point [emoji16]
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk2014 F-350 Platinum SRW
2021 Solitude 378-MBS-R
"Keep not standing fixed and rooted. Briskly venture, briskly roam."
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05-28-2022, 09:39 PM #8
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You likely will continue to have an oil leak even though the wiper seal has returned back (the portion that you see, is not an o-ring, and does not hold pressure (as Viper02 said) but keeps dirt out) and it is difficult to predict when the pressure seal will leak enough that you can't build pressure to retract the rod. At least carry spare hydraulic fluid. Also watch the hydraulic tank level if possible until you can get it repaired so that pump is not damaged.
I you can remove the cylinder (likely hardest part of job) and unscrew the gland nut shown in your photo it is quite easy to replace the seal and wiper. Just make sure that area is very clean before reassembly and do not scratch any surfaces. Look for any significant scratches on the rod/gland and lightly clean with a mild ScotchBrite pad only if there are significant scratches that might cut the seal.Last edited by TimtheToolMan; 05-28-2022 at 09:47 PM.
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05-28-2022, 10:45 PM #9
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As Viper02 said, a hydraulic shop would be a good choice to do the work. This would save you time finding the wipers and seals and you would have confidence that it was done right.
Last edited by TimtheToolMan; 05-28-2022 at 10:48 PM.
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