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  1. #1
    Setting Up Camp
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    Solitude 5th Wheel Front Levelers Position When Doing a Pull Test

    After connecting to hitch, I always engage trailer breaks and do a pull test to ensure hitch is locked. Of those that have a Solitude 5th wheel, you know that the front levelers retract one at a time. Before I do a pull test, I retract the front jacks (Retract All) and then go inside to control panel to manually set each front jack to about 1in above ground. And then do a pull test. I am hesitate to select arrow down and take the pressure off of front jacks (just before one jack starts to retract) as the jacks will still "drag" a little when doing a pull test. Is there any other way to retract both front jacks a little (inch above ground) using the outside panel without having to do it manually from the control panel on the inside?? I use to have a Reflection and the control panel was on the cargo door but the Solitudes have them on the inside. I can understand why they put them on the inside with lighting control and other options but wish there was a separate control panel just for the jacks on the outside. Am I over thinking this and do the pull test with pressure off of jacks when they are both down with minimal forward motion (drag) of front jacks?

    Another reason why I don't like the control panel on the inside.....I store my Solitude in a storage facility with other RV's side by side. If for some reason, I get a fault when selecting Hitch Height, the only way to reset the fault is on the main control panel (clearing fault). Well, parking in a RV spot with others parked on both sides, I can't bring the stairs down to get inside to access control panel I haven't had this problem yet on the Solitude (did have a fault on the Reflection a couple of times) but wondering if you can clear the fault from outside, disconnect battery?

    Thanks for any recommendations or comments.

    Tim

    Moderator - feel free to move if posted in the incorrect section.
    2022 GD Solitude 346FLS-R
    2022 RAM 3500 DRW, 6.7 HO Cummins Turbo Diesel, AISIN trans, 4.10 axle ratio
    8ft bed with Reese Gen III Goosebox

  2. #2
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Here is my routine, and it's all done from the control box that is on the Nautilus/wet bay door.

    1. Hitch truck and secure the hitch locking lever. (I leave my wheel chocks in place for the pull test instead of using the brake controller on the truck)
    2. Raise front landing gear. Curbside leg has to come all the way up before the streetside leg will start moving up.
    3. When the curbside leg gets all the way and the streetside leg starts to move up, I release the up button so that the streetside leg is about an 1" off the ground.
    4. Press the button to lower the legs again and the curbside leg will start down.
    5. Let off the button when the curbside leg is about an inch off the ground.

    Now both legs are approx. an inch off the ground and you can do your pull test. After pulling, make sure to put the truck in neutral for a second or two so that you are not still pulling on the wheel chocks. Then raise both landing gear legs completely and remove chocks. Make sure trailer brakes are working by using the brake controller.
    2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
    2018 Momentum 394M...Heavily Modded!
    2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000 GT+
    Excessive Payload is a Wonderful Thing

    "If it ain't fast....It ain't Fun"

  3. #3
    Setting Up Camp
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    Perfect!!! I wasn't over thinking, I wasn't thinking at all!!
    2022 GD Solitude 346FLS-R
    2022 RAM 3500 DRW, 6.7 HO Cummins Turbo Diesel, AISIN trans, 4.10 axle ratio
    8ft bed with Reese Gen III Goosebox

  4. #4
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJPro351 View Post
    Perfect!!! I wasn't over thinking, I wasn't thinking at all!!
    And the reason that they don't move together is because they aren't piped in hydraulically parallel. The hyd. line goes to the curbside leg first, then when that leg is all the way down, it causes the hyd. pressure to increase and the flow through that leg makes it's way to the other leg. Once the other leg touches down, the pressure equalizes and they both move together because the pressure is equalized in both legs. It's a more simplistic way to hook up the hydraulics, and a less costly way to do it also....plus it makes sure that both legs are grounded even if you are on an uneven surface.
    2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
    2018 Momentum 394M...Heavily Modded!
    2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000 GT+
    Excessive Payload is a Wonderful Thing

    "If it ain't fast....It ain't Fun"

  5. #5
    Paid my dues 😁 FT4NOW's Avatar
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    I always do the pull test with the front landing gear down. You arent trying to pull the camper with all your truck power, you're making sure the hitch is fully closed. Even an 1" off the ground, if the hitch isnt fully closed, the camper is dropping on the landing gear, not sure it was meant for that. I've seen plenty of people that do one or the other, curious to how it plays out if the camper actually drops.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    2023 Momentum 398M-R
    2023 Ford F-450

    SOLD - 2021 Reflection 311BHS
    SOLD - 2017 Momentum 399TH

  6. #6
    Seasoned Camper
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    I will do pretty close to what xrated has in post #2 . The only difference is; I try to keep it under 1", or as low as possible. For example, if we are on a smooth level surface I will just get most of the weight on the hitch and then pull. I am putting pressure on the Pin/Hitch, not moving the trailer forward (or at least as little as possible with my foot/truck). With the chocks in place I can give it a solid tug and it's not going anywhere.

    I also [first] do a visual inspection of the Pin/hitch assembly before I move, to insure proper engagement. With a flashlight, I can see the assembly and if it is trapping the pin properly. It took some time for me to figure out what to look at the first time I did it.
    Rob
    Rob & Kathy
    2019 F350 CCSB SRW, w/Demco Autoslide.
    2019 Solitude 310GK.

  7. #7
    Site Sponsor
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    I’ve read/heard a pull test isn’t necessary with the B&W hitch as long as you do a visual on the locking bar position and the jaws around the pin. Well even though we have a B&W, we still do a pull test anyway as who knows, it might uncover some other unknown issue.
    2021 Solitude 310GK: Linen/DP windows/gen prep/slide toppers/king bed/EOH disc brakes/Cooper-H tires
    2019 F-350: Lariat/CC/LB/Diesel/DRW/4x4/Bakflip MX4/B&W 20K/AirLift 5000
    Other stuff: TST 507 TPMS/2x BB batteries/Victron BMV-712/Champion 3500 dual fuel gen/Garmin 780 GPS/22" Blackstone

  8. #8
    Long Hauler
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    While I don't do a pull test with my B&W hitch, there's nothing to keep anyone from doing it. But when you back into the B&W and the handle comes back to the locking position, the hitch is locked. If it's off, even a little, the handle won't come back. You can't high hitch one, you can't knowingly partially hitch one. It's just personal preference. But I have read of a guy who pinned his hitch open and then tried to drive off, and dented his truck pretty badly. Which shows you can do anything if you put your mind to it.
    Howard and Peggy
    2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
    His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S

  9. #9
    Site Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood View Post
    While I don't do a pull test with my B&W hitch, there's nothing to keep anyone from doing it. But when you back into the B&W and the handle comes back to the locking position, the hitch is locked. If it's off, even a little, the handle won't come back. You can't high hitch one, you can't knowingly partially hitch one. It's just personal preference. But I have read of a guy who pinned his hitch open and then tried to drive off, and dented his truck pretty badly. Which shows you can do anything if you put your mind to it.
    My PullRite hitch works exactly like yours does... but I still always look at the jaws, raise the front jacks 1" off the ground and do my tug test. It's for my piece of mind and only takes an extra 30 seconds.

    I have a buddy that never did a tug test. One time when he hitched up everything looked good but it really wasn't... something inside his hitch broke and wasn't noticable.
    He pulled away and the RV dropped onto his bed rails... almost $6000 damage between the front of the RV (inside & out) and the truck bed. He got them fixed, sold them both and bought a motorhome, lol!
    Bill & Colleen ~ Schwenksville, Pa
    2019 Reflection 337RLS
    2006 GMC Sierra 3500 8.1L V-8
    Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags
    Front Stabilizer Bar
    Rear Anti Sway Bar

  10. #10
    Fireside Member daltontrio's Avatar
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    Put me in the belt and suspenders category. My tug test, with landing gear a couple of inches off the ground, tells me two things: 1) my B&W hitch really is hitched and 2) my trailer brakes are working (I don't use the chocks for the tug test for this reason). To each his own, this is just how I do it.
    2021 F350 CCSB 4x4 SRW with Air Lift springs
    B&W Companion Slider
    2021 Solitude 375RES-R w/ disc brakes
    Formerly REI 6 man tent


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