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05-07-2022, 09:14 AM #21
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I can't see any way the slide itself is structural, so it shouldn't matter one bit. I wouldn't *move* the trailer with a slide extended, of course.
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10-13-2022, 10:43 AM #22
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If I had a dollar for every time I've started to do just that. Start giving the truck a little gas and nothing happens. Oops the tongue jack is still down.
I've been pondering the same question and its how I landed here. My problem when we're leaving though is once hitched I cant use the tongue jack to level . Because of the contours of my yard and where I park it, when hitched the front of the trailer is actually too high. By maybe 4 inches. Do you think it is safe to put the slide out or back in being that far off level? Side-to-side it's level.--
2020 Grand Design Imagine 2500RL
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10-13-2022, 12:07 PM #23
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In my opinion AND according to the Owner's Manual that came with my Momentum, it clearly states in the manual to disconnect from the truck, then go through the leveling process, THEN.....start setting up by hooking up the electric, water, etc and then putting out the slides. Just because a PDI tech told someone different, doesn't mean that it's correct.....in fact, many times it isn't.
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12-17-2022, 08:51 PM #24
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My wife and I spent several days at the 2022 Hersey Pa. R/V show. I had a chance to spend time with a GD Tech. We decided on a 2970RL however I did want the power leveling and it’s not offered on this trailer (very disappointing) However he explained to me that they tried to offer it as an option but kept on having warranty issues because owners couldn’t understand the dynamics of the leveling process. I’ll try to briefly explain what he said. The trailer is designed to sit on the chassis/frame as is. Any leveling should be done under the wheels (side to side) the trailer doesn’t know it’s sitting on uneven ground. After side to side is level, which is the most important it’s just a matter of raising or lowering the jack for front to back leveling. Once that’s done the trailer is level. The only reason for the jacks is to remove the bounce NOT TO LEVEL THE TRAILER. The jacks should be lowered until they meet resistance and that’s all. If you want to know if you lowered them enough just jump in the front and rear of the trailer. If it has a bounce they should be firmer. To many owners would use the power jacks to level the trailer which caused structural wall warranty damage. I understand many dealers move trailers with slides out but I believe it’s a mistake to level or move the trailer with the slides out. I wouldn’t do it on mine.
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12-18-2022, 04:57 AM #25
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10-21-2023, 11:11 PM #26
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Our tt rides (when hitched up) fairly level. So I would have very little issue putting out the slide if needed to take a nap. Having said that, our two recliners are not to bad to take a nap in. Just cannot get to the thermostat with the slide in.
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10-22-2023, 09:01 AM #27
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[QUOTE=rootusrootus;426322]I can't see any way the slide itself is structural, so it shouldn't matter one bit. I wouldn't *move* the trailer with a slide extended, of
Are you qualified to make your determination? Well I am a Structural Engineer and couldn't disagree with your statement more.
The Grand Deesign Imagin owner manual makes it very clear on page 144 titled Slideout Operation with the following statement "1. ALWAYS level and stabilize the RV, BEFORE operating your slideout system."
If your trailer isn't level when you open the slides you risk tweeking or racking the framework of the slideout and damaging it.
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10-22-2023, 09:13 AM #28
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While I do agree that it is best to have the trailer level and stabilized, I don't think what you're doing is going to break anything. There are lots of statements and caveats in the owners' manuals, but a lot of them are CYA's written by the company's lawyers.
FWIW, we have done it many, many times over the years with no ill effects. I would be more concerned if the big slides were Schwintek.Howard and Peggy
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10-22-2023, 08:10 PM #29
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Please let me explain in more detail. Owning and maintaining an RV of any kind that’s moved over the the roads will need constant monitoring to maintain and keep in very good condition. There will always be the exception to the rules, those are the ones that say they never touch a thing and their RV is perfect. I have been towing for forty nine years and I have always had some kind of issues. Many complaints involve slide outs, which are the most popular feature offered today. And I agree, We have them and I love them. That being said, part of that ownership is the responsibility to treat the trailer as a slide out model. You cannot just open the slide outs without properly preparing the trailer to do so. Slide outs are not designed to be opened without properly leveling and stabilizing the trailer. That’s a big problem for us that pull into a rest area for lunch and want to just pop them out. IT HAPPENS ALL THE TIME. I may be guilty myself, but I try not to. These are the same people that can’t understand why they have many problems with their slide outs. That’s not how it should be done. As we complain to each other we are partly causing out own problems. Think of the weight distribution involved in sliding out areas unsupported and expecting them to act as if they were being supported. The best advise I have received and can give is to (ONE) fool your tires into thinking they’re on level ground (TWO) lower your stabilizers, then open your slides. I know it’s hard, but that should be out ideal goal, (if possibly). Good Luck…
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10-22-2023, 09:17 PM #30
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[QUOTE=BeerBrewer;502800]
Are you qualified to make your determination? Well I am a Structural Engineer and couldn't disagree with your statement more.
Well, why didn’t you give him the REAL answer, then???
Why are convertible automobiles given a more heavily reinforced chassis than a coupe or sedan?
Because the roof is a stressed structure that stiffens the body.
How can you build a motorcycle with no chassis down-tubes?
You make the motor a stressed frame member.
Why is it a bad idea to move an RV with the slides out?
Because the OUTSIDE WALL of the slide-out is a stressed member of the structure.
With the slide-out deployed, rather than a stiff outer wall, you have a UNSTRESSED open cube that can flex in multiple directions.
Not only does the slide-out flex, the walls and ceiling of the main structure can warp, without the reinforcement of the outer slide-out wall.
Think of a house with a 24-foot open span in the living room and no load beam in the ceiling.
That ceiling is GOING to sag and, eventually, collapse.
Yes, you may go years with no APPARENT problems, but the unbraced span WILL deteriorate.
Your first warning may well be when the ceiling falls in (in the house, not the RV).
Extend last, retract first.
There are far more stresses on an RV than any house.
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