Battery Losing Charge

[pitman44]

I have a 2021 397th. I leave it plugged into shore power all the time. Currently I have it plugged into a 20A 120V circuit at our house. I recently brought it back from the dealers after it was there for about 6 weeks. Brought it home, unhooked and leveled it. Couple days later raised it in the air to block it up and put disc brakes on. Took a couple weeks to get it mostly done so I could raise it again, pull the blocking out and then level it. A couple days later I had to do some wiring in the front for the actuator, so I started retracting the jacks. They started and then stopped. Did this a couple of times before I thought to check the battery. Under 10V according to the One Control panel. Plugged into shore power the whole time. I verified there was 120V in the RV. Pulled the battery and put it on a 10A charger for about 16 hours. BTW this is an Interstate Marine/RC deep cycle with 160 reserve amps. I checked the output of the converter/charger and that was 13.7VDC which is within the specs WFCO gives.

Took the battery to our local NAPA and they say it's good. Honestly I know they're going to test CCA and I don't know if it should be tested in a different fashion. Put the battery in Friday. Now the jacks retract fine and I can raise the nose to get some room to do the wiring for the actuator. Get that done yesterday, bleed the brakes and I am a happy camper. Go to level the RV today. Front jacks retract. It starts lifting the front back up and I get a low voltage error. Again the RV was plugged into a 20A 120V circuit the whole time.

I'd really appreciate some insight on where to dig in. Taking it back to the dealer isn't an option as we're selling our house and need to move into this camper within a week. Thanks.

[MoonShadow_1911]

I have a 2021 397th. I leave it plugged into shore power all the time. Currently I have it plugged into a 20A 120V circuit at our house. I recently brought it back from the dealers after it was there for about 6 weeks. Brought it home, unhooked and leveled it. Couple days later raised it in the air to block it up and put disc brakes on. Took a couple weeks to get it mostly done so I could raise it again, pull the blocking out and then level it. A couple days later I had to do some wiring in the front for the actuator, so I started retracting the jacks. They started and then stopped. Did this a couple of times before I thought to check the battery. Under 10V according to the One Control panel. Plugged into shore power the whole time. I verified there was 120V in the RV. Pulled the battery and put it on a 10A charger for about 16 hours. BTW this is an Interstate Marine/RC deep cycle with 160 reserve amps. I checked the output of the converter/charger and that was 13.7VDC which is within the specs WFCO gives.

Took the battery to our local NAPA and they say it's good. Honestly I know they're going to test CCA and I don't know if it should be tested in a different fashion. Put the battery in Friday. Now the jacks retract fine and I can raise the nose to get some room to do the wiring for the actuator. Get that done yesterday, bleed the brakes and I am a happy camper. Go to level the RV today. Front jacks retract. It starts lifting the front back up and I get a low voltage error. Again the RV was plugged into a 20A 120V circuit the whole time.

I'd really appreciate some insight on where to dig in. Taking it back to the dealer isn't an option as we're selling our house and need to move into this camper within a week. Thanks.

Check the battery disconnect switch. If it's disconnected the batteries will not charge.

Mark & Mary. Currently hailing from New Mexico and going full time in August 2022.
Current coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel

[pitman44]

Check the battery disconnect switch. If it's disconnected the batteries will not charge.

Mark & Mary. Currently hailing from New Mexico and going full time in August 2022.
Current coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel

Thanks. I checked that it was on, but I should verify that it's functioning properly.

[sande005]

The usual test, as you noted, essentially checks CCA - how fast can it dump it's power for heavy loads, like engine starting. It may not catch a battery that is way down on capacity. That requires running a smaller load for longer periods to find the amp hours it is able to deliver before the voltage drops too low. Harder to find a place that will take the time for that test.

First, when it gets to a "no go" level - get a wire brush, and take each wire off of each terminal and clean it within an inch of its life. I've even had to use fine grit sandpaper if it was really bad. Bare metal, with no corrosion gunk anywhere. Do the same for the terminals.
Auto parts places sell various cleaners and then conductive greases for the connections to help prevent future problems.
When all clean and pretty, try it again, and see if your One Control reports a much higher voltage.

If you have a voltmeter, check the direct voltage from the battery vs what the One Control reports - If significantly higher at the battery, then you have a corrosion/connection problem somewhere else that will take more sleuthing to find. It may even be the wiring to the One Control itself.
If they agree (within a few 1/10ths of a volt), but the voltage is still very low, then it is new battery time.