My Goosebox Air Setup. Regulated/Adjustable Bag Pressure

[4x4dually]

Finally got done what I've wanted to since I got this Goosebox. Enough of that stupid brass block with the cantankerous air inlet fitting and over inflation valve.

Lots of cool features save two....I don't have a way to drain condensation in the tank...and I'm not sure if the regulator will dump some air on every hard bump. I don't expect it to, but we will see. I can pull the tank out and dump water out the top fitting quickly if needs be. And worst case, I add a cheap 12V compressor to the tank if I need continual air. No worries there either.

Anywho...see what you think. I've posted it on the goosebox facespace group so some of you my have seen it already.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eU4-H2yNBbc

[traveldawg]

VERY NICE! I'd like to do the same but not sure I have the room for a tank. I will figure out how to use another TireMinder Sensor - that's clever!

Now - how do you connect and disconnect the chains easily? Any tricks for that?

[4x4dually]

Now - how do you connect and disconnect the chains easily? Any tricks for that?

Easy as pie....I don't run safety chains.

[stvaughn]

I’ll give you two thumbs up.

[4x4dually]

Maiden run planned for next weekend. I did order a 1/4 turn shut-off which I will put between the bag and the regulator. This way, as I monitor the pressure on the maiden voyage, if I see that the bouncing going down the road releases too much air due to the output of the regulator constantly changing, then I can just shut the valve to lock in the pressure in the bag at the setpoint. I'll try it both ways and report back how it works.

[traveldawg]

Thanks for keeping us up to date. I saw your video on YT before I saw this link.

I just got my Goosebox this week and still need to install it. I'm not sure I'll get as sophisticated as you. I'm just trying to figure out how you got from the valve Reese installs (the one with the pressure relief) to a push-on hose type connection. For sure I'll need to extend my fill point to something other than what Reese came up with.

[ajg617]

Plus 1, nice system. I did have the valve pop-off on some bumps last trip, lost some pressure, and fill is not convenient with the tailgate. A more convenient air fill location would be nice. The pressure loss seemed to stabilize on the trip home - over roads that I thought were much worse. I had the same pressure for the remaining 2500 miles or so.

I'm guessing that the sensor on the stock pressure relief valve would not work all that well.

Also, let us know if you experience any gouging on the ball with the new GB and what the fitment is with the gooseball shank if you have a factory puck system. @Fsalmy is experiencing similar gouging and noise with ball fitment. If interested, see post update here:
https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...904#post434904

[geotex1]

Just shy of dragging 20K on the Goosebox with our 3350RL, which is heavy on the pin. I have fought the fight with that crummy valve, even posting an emergency get-you-by band-aid when it fails on you. Crossing fingers, the replacement has been working as it should. I'm running the bag pretty much as recommended, and I do adjust with large swings in ambient temperature. Since installing the replacement, I have not had a blow-off due to any bumps, but that could be a combination of the replacement, dialing in the bag to the comfort we like, and it's also post-installation of shocks on the 5er. Now, crossing the mountains... Definitely adjusts itself and let's you know it!

As for those with the gouging, ALL gooseneck setups wear the ball. The coupler is not polished, and all too often folks also forget to clean it before hitching. Run grease on the goose ball. The overwhelming source of noise from a Goosebox is not from that ball when towing. It's from the pin. Remove the Allen head cap screw and washers, knock halfway out, stare and be bewildered by the corrosion and pitting, clean up, grease well, and repeat for the other side. If I ever find some free time to complete measurements and details, I'm having a pin that can be greased without removing machined.

[4x4dually]

I'm just trying to figure out how you got from the valve Reese installs (the one with the pressure relief) to a push-on hose type connection. For sure I'll need to extend my fill point to something other than what Reese came up with.

Just cut the 1/4 tubing halfway between the bag and the brass valve. Throw that brass valve in the ditch, and use a 1/4 to 1/4 pushlock coupler. That's how I did mine.

Naturally, Amazon lost my valves so they won't be here until Thursday now. Driver said "handed directly to resident" on the tracking. Pretty funny as to how we were at the Lake all evening and no one was home. Not sure who they "handed" it to, but it wasn't us.

Just got my mega cab back from dad's body shop getting the mega fenders put back on the long bed and getting those long 2006 dually fenders off of it. Looks much better. Now I just need to get my on board air plumbed to the front fuel door and move the fuel fill tubes to the rear fuel door that dad just got put in the bedside to match the mega fender. Lots of projects going on.

[ajg617]

As for those with the gouging, ALL gooseneck setups wear the ball. The coupler is not polished, and all too often folks also forget to clean it before hitching. Run grease on the goose ball. The overwhelming source of noise from a Goosebox is not from that ball when towing. It's from the pin. Remove the Allen head cap screw and washers, knock halfway out, stare and be bewildered by the corrosion and pitting, clean up, grease well, and repeat for the other side. If I ever find some free time to complete measurements and details, I'm having a pin that can be greased without removing machined.

Do you have the Gen 1 or Gen 2? My Gen 2 has a zerk for greasing pin without removing. That said, we had to remove pin during install because Reese had inserted it 180 degrees out with flat portion facing away from ball. It was visually inspected at that time and smooth and clean 3 months ago. I'll pull it again, clean, and inspect.

Wear I can understand but not deep gouges in a circular pattern about 3/4" in diameter on top of ball which is always greased. The only contaminate I found were strings of black paint in the lithium on the ball first few unhitchings from new Goosebox.

As far as the noise, too big a gap between the sleeve and the factory puck IMHO. I shouldn't be able to visibly move and hear the gooseball when it is locked in place in the factory receiver. Truck's going in for CP4 today and I'm going to try a Curt/Mopar ball if they have one to verify fitment.