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Thread: Extension cords

  1. #11
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by Second Chance View Post
    On 15 amps, you would be able to run the converter/charger (1 - 8 amps for charging battery and running lights and other 12VDC needs). Most microwaves are 1,400 - 1,500 watts (12 - 13 amps). You don't say what model RV or refrigerator you have, but the Norcold absorption refrigerators draw 1.2 - 2 amps when on AC (much less when operating on propane). The 6-gallon water heaters draw 8 - 13 amps on electric. RV ACs draw 16 - 18 amps on startup and 13 - 16 amps running. In other words, you won't get much with 15 amps - but it will run the lights, appliances on propane, and keep the battery charged.

    Rob
    We are getting the 231rk. I knew things like the AC and microwave were out of the question. If it is a matter of running the fridge just to get it running before we head out that should not be an issue since it is 12 volt and I assume the converter will handle that.

    It is not like we are going to live in it in the back 40. Just to be able to turn lights on and run the fridge is fine. Will have to see if I can disable the water heater while it is parked there.

  2. #12
    Site Team Second Chance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    We are getting the 231rk. I knew things like the AC and microwave were out of the question. If it is a matter of running the fridge just to get it running before we head out that should not be an issue since it is 12 volt and I assume the converter will handle that.

    It is not like we are going to live in it in the back 40. Just to be able to turn lights on and run the fridge is fine. Will have to see if I can disable the water heater while it is parked there.
    The water heaters are completely switchable.

    Rob
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  3. #13
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    The length and gauge of the cord is completely dependent on the amount of load you plan on putting on it. If you are simply charging batteries and using lights, you'll be fine. You won't be able to pull much.

    It's all about voltage drop. The convention is stay less than 3%. If you were to buy a 20A, 12ga cord, and buy two 100 footers, your max load would be around 5amps to stay within the drop allowances.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #14
    Seasoned Camper 4x4dually's Avatar
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    I should have read all posts before blabbing more info. This is the one I used as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Capt Bob View Post
    Yup.

    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    Here is a good reference chart for distance, amps, and gauge.

    Attachment 40598

    200' is possible.
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  5. #15
    Site Sponsor Jerryr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    We are getting the 231rk. I knew things like the AC and microwave were out of the question. If it is a matter of running the fridge just to get it running before we head out that should not be an issue since it is 12 volt and I assume the converter will handle that.

    It is not like we are going to live in it in the back 40. Just to be able to turn lights on and run the fridge is fine. Will have to see if I can disable the water heater while it is parked there.
    A new 231RK will have a 165W Roof Mounted Solar Panel, Roof Mounted Quick Connect Plugs, Solar Charge Controller, 12V 8 cu. ft. Refrigerator Others can chime in if the single 165 watt solar panel and standard 12 v battery is enough to run the 12 v fridge and a few lights.

    I would look into upgrading the solar and battery. It should be an easy task to install a 2nd 165 watt solar panel and replace the lead acid battery with a 100 amp Lithium Ion, which should increase capacity significantly.

    We don't have solar and we plug into a 15 amp outlet when at our primary home to run lights, precool the fridge the night before we leave and keep the battery charged. At our remote cabin we have a 50a/240v outlet on the side of the house and another 50a/240v outlet in the shed/barn where we can plug in. normally the shed/barn outlet is used to charge the electric car.

    Here's a picture of the RV and electric car parked next to the shed/barn. We can run everything, both AC units, water heater, lights, fridge etc wen plugged onto the 50a outlet. We also have softened/conditioned well water at the shed that we can connect to at the shed.

    And another picture plugged into the 50a/240v outlet on the side of the cabin
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails shed.jpg   shed2.jpg  
    Last edited by Jerryr; 05-12-2022 at 02:30 PM.
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  6. #16
    Site Team Soundsailor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    Just wanted to know because if we are packing it up and just running fridge would the standard 15 amp cord work?
    At home, we use a standard 15 Amp plug with a heavy-duty (12 gauge) extension cord. Works well for us as long as we don't try to run too many things at once.
    Last edited by Soundsailor; 05-12-2022 at 03:46 PM.
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  7. #17
    Seasoned Camper Rivercityjeff's Avatar
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    One cost effective alternative would be a dual fuel portable generator. IF you run it on propane, you won't have to worry with an ethanol damaged carburetor.

    https://smile.amazon.com/Champion-Po...2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
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  8. #18
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    Unfortunately that is not an option.
    Why? A good electrician can run cables under/ over anything.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bungy View Post
    Why? A good electrician can run cables under/ over anything.
    Town says no.

  10. #20
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    Town says no.
    Exactly. Whether it can be done or not, local codes always have the last say. But I'm sure there are some that may do it anyways.
    Jim and Annette
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