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Thread: Extension cords

  1. #31
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    Hi there,
    We did the same thing and run a length of extension cord about 60 feet. The 50 foot extension cord and the cable that comes as power supply cord with RV. Our RV is a 50 amp unit. I use the very heaviest gauge cord with a very good smart surge protector. Haven’t had any issues. Had the 30amp receptacle installed and I really like having that handy for the RV. Keeps everything topped up and don’t notice much of an increase on the electrical bill. We are cautious about how we use it.

    We’re in process of adding a post very close to back of RV at some point. With a 30 amp receptacle to make more a permanent solution. I don’t really like to cords laying on yard anyway. But as temporary solution it has been serving purpose and folks boon docking stop by often and I’ll unplug and have them plug in. Maybe 30-40foot run for them depending how close they can get.

    I’d be hesitant to run a full 200 feet though. There is power drop along that length and the draw can cause damage if not be downright dangerous. Best to ask a professional electrician and see what you can safely manage.

    Warm regards,
    Mike

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    We are getting a 30 amp receptacle set up at the house. We have a few acres. How long is too long for a 30 amp extension cord? We would need about 200 ft to reach the trailer.
    I park my RV about 150 ft from my house. I have a 10 gauge cord for the 1st 50ft, then two 12 gauge cords elevated off the ground to my RV. 12 gauge is minimum! Using any smaller gauge cord will result in loss of voltage and amperage and overheat. The outside receptacle is GCFI and 20 amp stand alone circuit. I would have preferred 10 gauge the whole distance and may upgrade, but for now it works to deliver 15 amp ONLY! I put in a pedestal with an outdoor 30 amp receptacle to plug in the rv. On the inside of the box I swapped whatever the breaker was for a 15 amp breaker. On the bottom of the box I installed a female twist lock 20 amp receptacle, (I think. 20-or 30amp is not important. Only that it is twist lock). I then wired up the corresponding male twist lock on my extension cord. This set up gives you a locking plug for your extension cord to the pedestal box. This is wired into your breaker and 30 amp rv plug. This set up provides my RV with enough amperage to keep the charger/converter supplied with power and keep the batteries topped of in full or float mode. It is also enough to power my absorption refrigerator on the AC side when I start it up a day or two before a trip. Also, internal outlets that are low amperage draw can be used like TV, AC stereo, kitchen mixer etc. What you Can NOT use is air conditioning, electric coffee pot, hairdryers, portable electric heaters, Micro wave. All these will overheat the circuit, but hopefully trip the breaker before the cord gets too hot. Its not 30 amp service, but very good for idle storage power needs. As mentioned by others, a hard wired full 30 amp service of 200 ft would cost a good chunk of money in copper wire.
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  3. #33
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    My progressive protector (EMS-HW30c) will cut power to trailer if voltage drops below 108vAC. Thats your reference #. Just for your own test, measure the voltage at the power source you want to use; lets assume 118vAC. Now add a 16 gauge 50ft extension cord and measure the voltage at the far end. You will see < 118vAC. Now add another extension cord to existing and measure. You get the idea. You will quickly discover the voltage drops below 110vAC at the end. This will help you determine exactly how far you can stretch the wires. What everyone here is saying is this "to reduce the voltage drop, use the large diameter copper wire". That works, but at 200ft, the diameter would be over 1/2" thick and would be very $$$$. For smaller loads (< 10 amps DC) I would put solar on the roof and skip the hard wiring altogether.

    If solar is an option, have a look HERE. The author is considered by many to be an invaluable resource with solar, batteries etc..

    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    Thank you very much for that. Sorry, I have been writing software forever. I need numbers. "Don't do it because you will burn your house down" does not answer the question.

    Based on what I see most of the extension cords are 10 gauge. I can safely go 50 ft with that.

    What are the items that we would run that require the 30 amp? Just wanted to know because if we are packing it up and just running fridge would the standard 15 amp cord work?
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  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    We are getting a 30 amp receptacle set up at the house. We have a few acres. How long is too long for a 30 amp extension cord? We would need about 200 ft to reach the trailer.
    The answer all lies in what you wish to be using. I had to use a 100 ft 10ga cord to my rig for a short time. Last year with the temps near 100 I actually ran the a/c with no problems and no heat from the cord. You mentioned disconnecting the water heater and my thought would be to just not turn it on when on the extension cord. From my experience and the knowledge of my electrician if you are running minor stuff you should not encounter problems if using a heavy duty cord. Most stores classify 14ga as heavy duty but that will not suffice.
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  5. #35
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    30 amp cord

    Quote Originally Posted by docque View Post
    Well then I asked two questions. 200ft is too much what would be the max? I could park in driveway if need be.
    i would go no more than 100 feet anything longer you will need to go to a bigger size wire the reason is voltage drop which increases the amperage

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave woz View Post
    .... the reason is voltage drop which increases the amperage
    We will let this statement slide as I think I know what you mean buy it....technically, the amperage is increased due to the increase in resistance and the voltage drop is the result....carry on.
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