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  1. #1
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    Companion OEM Fifth Wheel Hitch - latching cleat adjustment question

    Greetings
    Tomorrow I will be assembling and installing for the first time a Companion OEM Fifth Wheel Hitch for the Ford puck system.

    Now in preparation I have read the instructions and watched numerous videos, but none have answered the question I need an answer too. Being the Holiday weekend I can't call B&W but I will come Tuesday.

    In the instructions it says adjust the castle nut to get a firm locking fit. Firm to me may not be firm to you. My neighbor with weak hands uses a rubber mallet, but his has been set for years.

    Then the instructions say insert the locking cotter pin in the castle nut. Here is the $10,000 question. To get the pin in, do you tighten or loosed the nut if it does not fit? I am thinking tighten slightly. Is this correct? I ran across several videos that say tighten one full notch to load the locking cleat. One video said 50 FT/Lbs - which I think is wrong per the B&W instructions.

    Now I may need to compress my impact mat in the initial install which is not an issue as over time it will compress and adjust in use.

    I just don't want any play in the base. Also what locks are folks using on the locking cleat arms? I would like to get a set ordered, with a 3rd keyed alike for the locking arm

    Thanks for any help
    Last edited by powerscol; 05-28-2022 at 09:54 PM.
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  2. #2
    Long Hauler
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    I take it an impact mat is a rubber mat of some kind? Why would that be an issue with the pucks? I tighten my castle nut until it takes some pressure to close the locking lever. Then I tighten it til the cotter key will fit. IMO, it doesn't need anywhere near 50 lb. ft. I can't imagine using a lock on the locking cleats. Anything small enough to fit the cleat will be small enough to remove with a minimum of effort. Anyone who is seriously considering stealing a 300 lb. 5th wheel hitch is not going to be deterred by a couple bitty padlocks. JMO of course.
    Howard and Peggy
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerscol View Post
    Greetings
    Tomorrow I will be assembling and installing for the first time a Companion OEM Fifth Wheel Hitch for the Ford puck system.

    Now in preparation I have read the instructions and watched numerous videos, but none have answered the question I need an answer too. Being the Holiday weekend I can't call B&W but I will come Tuesday.

    In the instructions it says adjust the castle nut to get a firm locking fit. Firm to me may not be firm to you. My neighbor with weak hands uses a rubber mallet, but his has been set for years.

    Then the instructions say insert the locking cotter pin in the castle nut. Here is the $10,000 question. To get the pin in, do you tighten or loosed the nut if it does not fit? I am thinking tighten slightly. Is this correct? I ran across several videos that say tighten one full notch to load the locking cleat. One video said 50 FT/Lbs - which I think is wrong per the B&W instructions.

    Now I may need to compress my impact mat in the initial install which is not an issue as over time it will compress and adjust in use.

    I just don't want any play in the base. Also what locks are folks using on the locking cleat arms? I would like to get a set ordered, with a 3rd keyed alike for the locking arm

    Thanks for any help
    Finger tight the castle nut, close the lever. If you can't get the lever closed, it lined up with the other one for the pin, open the lever, back the castle nut off about 1/8“ and try it again.

    If the lever turns easily, like a door handle, tighten the castle nut. I had mine set at Northgate RV when we picked up the trailer. I've removed and reinstalled it once. To get it the levers to close, I toe kicked them into place. It should be a tight fit.
    Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
    Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
    Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonShadow_1911 View Post
    Finger tight the castle nut, close the lever. If you can't get the lever closed, it lined up with the other one for the pin, open the lever, back the castle nut off about 1/8“ and try it again.

    If the lever turns easily, like a door handle, tighten the castle nut. I had mine set at Northgate RV when we picked up the trailer. I've removed and reinstalled it once. To get it the levers to close, I toe kicked them into place. It should be a tight fit.
    Thanks - Its the locking arm I am really worried about - keep honest folks honest. Too many pranks theses days

    The BedRug Impact bed mat is fairly new with an impervious skin and 3/4" foam behind. https://bedrug.com/bedtred-impact-bed-mats I had the older rug version (full bed coverage) but it stained badly, but did last close to 19 years before I traded it in. Thought I would try the new version.

    Right now it sits slightly proud of the puck lips between the pucks - say 3/8". I am pretty sure it will easily compress under the hitch weight. The mat is soft under my knees right now.

    Thanks for the tips
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  5. #5
    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    I have that same hitch...the 25k Companion. I bought it new in 2019 when I bought the 394M. I tightened the castle nuts to the point that I could not rotate the handles to lock in the hitch base without some sort of external force.....like maybe a switf kick or a rubber mallet. I then started loosening them until I got to the point that could rotate them into position with just me turning them and not needing a kick or hammer, or more importanty.....cursing them into position! After I towed the trailer home....about 400 miles, I did recheck the adjustment and it had very slightly loosened up, so I readjusted them and they have been fine for the last three years. I rarely take my hitch out of the truck bed, but as a matter of routine, I usually check them at least once a season. I use a long shackle lock on the handles (two of them keyed alike) that I had already. I also use a lock on the hitch locking arm. Neither of the two locks will stop someone intent on stealing the hitch, but the two that are on the handle for the base plate would certainly keep the handles from rotating if something loosened up for whatever reason. The one on the hitch lock arm is again, not really going to stop a determined person, but it would like like some devious person from coming along and thinking it would be funny to release the hitch lock....

    Here is the lock that I use on the hitch lock arm.....
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Here is what I use on the base plate locking handles.....I did not purchase on this site, as I already had two of these that were keyed alike and they fit both handles when they are in the locked in position.....
    https://allpadlocks.com/products/ame...2&currency=USD
    Last edited by xrated; 05-29-2022 at 05:13 AM.
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  6. #6
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerscol View Post
    Greetings
    Here is the $10,000 question. To get the pin in, do you tighten or loosed the nut if it does not fit? I am thinking tighten slightly. Is this correct? I ran across several videos that say tighten one full notch to load the locking cleat. One video said 50 FT/Lbs - which I think is wrong per the B&W instructions.

    Now I may need to compress my impact mat in the initial install which is not an issue as over time it will compress and adjust in use.

    I just don't want any play in the base. Also what locks are folks using on the locking cleat arms? I would like to get a set ordered, with a 3rd keyed alike for the locking arm

    Thanks for any help
    Question 1..Tighten. A big NO to the 50ftpds. Mine are just tight enough that hitting the handle with the palm of my hand closes it.
    2...If the impact mat interferes with getting the hitch mounted tight to the puck sockets, cut it or get rid of it.
    3...can't help there. Never put a lock on my 5th hitches. Never heard of an RV trailer being boosted while hitched to a truck yet. Boats? Yes, I lock those, a lot easier to steal than a fifth wheel.
    2018 Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins SRW w/Aisin
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  7. #7
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    Thanks everyone.
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  8. #8
    Rolling Along
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerscol View Post
    Thanks everyone.
    Everyone has been spot on. Hand tighten nuts. If you have to use any object to turn the latches, it's too tight. Ford OEM weighs about 75lbs so it's not the easiest to swipe, BUT if you think you're at risk, I really don't think there's a pin lock out there I would bet on slowing down an even slightly determine thief.

    Full-time Traveling Family ,'21 Momentum 395MS-R, '21 F450 King, 2000watts solar, Dual Victron MP-II 12/3000 2 x 120v, 1220ah LiFePo4

  9. #9
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    I do padlock the four puck handles and use a Master pad lock on the jaw lock handle. Not to prevent stealing of the hitch but to keep people from opening the latches when we overnight while hitched or stop for fuel. There are sick people out there. Just a quick visual glance at the locks before pulling out again is all I need. Every six months or so I remove the pad locks and check for easy opening, I use graphite powder to lube the padlocks.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
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    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    My experience says that after towing a bit things will loosen up and some retightening will be in order. No hurry. You can talk to B&W later this week.

    As for the bed rug/mat: I'm kind of in the same mind-set as Scott'n'Wendy - loose it or cut is so the hitch isn't on top of any part of it.

    Locking is optional. I don't lock mine in place (different manufacturer, no way to lock it to the truck) but I do lock the handle. And I have a hardtop locking bed cover for when the RV isn't attached.
    Larry KE4DMG
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