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  1. #1
    Fireside Member
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    Signal booster wire hole

    All,

    I have done some searching her but haven't found anything that can help me. Due to the pandemic I have been working from home mostly for the last 2 years+. The advantage for us has been that "home" can be our residence or it can be the mobile one (310 GK behind the F250)! My boss doesn't care nor does his boss or even his boss. The main problem I have had is getting a strong enough signal on my phone to have a hot spot. I am on AT&T. We opted for the SuperBars system. It has made all the difference. I attached the outside antennae to the ladder about as high as the AC unit. Then used zip ties to attach the cable to the ladder sides down to the bottom of the right rear window. I fed the wire in and have it dangling loosely. I would like to make it a more permanent attachment.

    Is there any existing wires in this area that I need to be aware of? I was hoping to drill the small hole through the exterior and into the cabinet above the sofa and mount the internal box in the cabinet. The connector is slightly larger that the actual coaxial cable so there would only be a small amount of sealant needed to seal the hole.

    Thoughts?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Signal Booster Cable.jpg  

  2. #2
    Rolling Along
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    Does the super bars system run on 12 volts dc?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2021 Reflection 312 BHTS, Silverado 2500 Duramax

  3. #3
    Fireside Member
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    Yes, it runs on 12 VDC. The power cord has a USB end on it and it came with a cig lighter adapter.

  4. #4
    Big Traveler
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    With my N type cable, I went thru the frame hole for the right rear marker light under the trailer nearest the ladder. I drilled a hole thru the floor just big enough to pass my KMR240 N type to SMA cable thru it under the couch in the rear of my 295RL to my cell signal booster.

    However, I did call GDs tech line and asked if I could drill thru the back wall as an option. They said there shouldn't be any wires there under the 295RL rear window. However I did not ask about the area above the window. Would recommend calling GD and asking them about that area.

    Note: my system requires 10' seperation from antenna to antenna to booster. In my case using directional antennas and mounting the booster on the floor gave me good separation when in use.
    Last edited by trailrydr; 06-05-2022 at 09:17 PM.
    Jim and Annette
    2019 Reflection 150 295RL
    US Army Veteran
    Missouri (AKA Misery)

  5. #5
    Fireside Member
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    Thanks for the thoughts. I don't think I have enough cable to go down the ladder and then back up through the floor. We have had the best signal when the antenna is at the top of the ladder.

  6. #6
    Long Hauler
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElSimon View Post
    All,

    I have done some searching her but haven't found anything that can help me. Due to the pandemic I have been working from home mostly for the last 2 years+. The advantage for us has been that "home" can be our residence or it can be the mobile one (310 GK behind the F250)! My boss doesn't care nor does his boss or even his boss. The main problem I have had is getting a strong enough signal on my phone to have a hot spot. I am on AT&T. We opted for the SuperBars system. It has made all the difference. I attached the outside antennae to the ladder about as high as the AC unit. Then used zip ties to attach the cable to the ladder sides down to the bottom of the right rear window. I fed the wire in and have it dangling loosely. I would like to make it a more permanent attachment.

    Is there any existing wires in this area that I need to be aware of? I was hoping to drill the small hole through the exterior and into the cabinet above the sofa and mount the internal box in the cabinet. The connector is slightly larger that the actual coaxial cable so there would only be a small amount of sealant needed to seal the hole.

    Thoughts?
    I would highly recommend but penetrating a side wall, but if you must, use a cable grommet it SHOULD keep the moisture out of the hole. Use silicone sealant on the inside of the grommet "hat" (or flange), and in the hole in the middle.

    That being said, you can buy a longer cable, which is what I recommend. You want one that is long enough to go from the antenna to your connection point, in one run. The reason is you lose 3 db of signal for every connector. This way you can penetrate the floor, plus it's easier to "repair" if you sell the camper.
    Mark & Mary. Full-timing across the USA (and Canada)!
    Current Coach: 2021 Grand Design Reflection 320MKS
    Current Rig: 2019 Ford F350 SD Crew Cab, w/8' box, Lariat, SRW, 6.7l Diesel

  7. #7
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoonShadow_1911 View Post
    I would highly recommend but penetrating a side wall, but if you must, use a cable grommet it SHOULD keep the moisture out of the hole. Use silicone sealant on the inside of the grommet "hat" (or flange), and in the hole in the middle.

    That being said, you can buy a longer cable, which is what I recommend. You want one that is long enough to go from the antenna to your connection point, in one run. The reason is you lose 3 db of signal for every connector. This way you can penetrate the floor, plus it's easier to "repair" if you sell the camper.
    We used 2 connectors one at the top of our colapsable flag pole (replaced truck ball with YAGI) in order to run the wire thru the pole. And then another 90 degree connector on the trailer frame for a travel disconnect.

    Sure 6db loss sucks, but being able to have an outside disconnect is real convenient. With our booster the loss doesnt appear to be that bad.

    I also took a blank wall plate and drilled a hole thru it and placed a (near sized to cable) rubber grommet in the hole and ran the cable thru it. When mounting, used silicone around the hole as well before mounting the plate to the floor.

    Inside the trailer all one can see is the white wilson directional inside antenna mounted on our rear couch overhanging cabinet the rest is all hidden behind the couch with the wire running along side of the widow edge behind the OEM curtain. We keep our cell hotspot under the indoor antenna on the couch side cabinet when in use for best signal.
    Jim and Annette
    2019 Reflection 150 295RL
    US Army Veteran
    Missouri (AKA Misery)

  8. #8
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    This is what I did.....

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    Last edited by traveldawg; 06-06-2022 at 02:01 PM.
    Larry KE4DMG
    2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
    2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
    Search kalakamods for my mods


  9. #9
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    This is what I did.....

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    Hi Traveldawg, Looks like a custom pass-thru connector? Did you build that out of components to fit this application?
    I need to do something similar for coax type N and/or PL-259 connections. I would like to have the ports available outside to feed signal to an external antenna.
    The bulkhead connectors are available, but where did you get the weatherproof (?) cover? It looks more robust than others I have seen.

    Did you add the flip top on the side cabinets next to the couch? I don't think I have that, but it looks handy.

    Thanks;
    Rob
    Rob & Kathy
    2019 F350 CCSB SRW, w/Demco Autoslide.
    2019 Solitude 310GK.

  10. #10
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob+Kath View Post
    Hi Traveldawg, Looks like a custom pass-thru connector? Did you build that out of components to fit this application?
    I need to do something similar for coax type N and/or PL-259 connections. I would like to have the ports available outside to feed signal to an external antenna.
    The bulkhead connectors are available, but where did you get the weatherproof (?) cover? It looks more robust than others I have seen.

    Did you add the flip top on the side cabinets next to the couch? I don't think I have that, but it looks handy.

    Thanks;
    Rob
    @Rob+Kath
    Glad you liked the way I did t, Rob.

    I used a Furion Solar Plug outlet and drilled out middle to accept an RJ45 pass thru connector. Then I installed an RF45 waterproof connector in it. I stole the idea from RV Project on YouTube (he does some neat stuff and keeps his videos short and focuses on the project, not himself.)

    This is the passthru connector I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Furion Plug example: (I don;t recall where I got mine, but I should have used a beige color rather than white): https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...All%20Products

    Those spring clips on my ladder hold a 10 foot piece of 3/4" metal conduit that I cut in half and butt together with a common conduit connector. It works well for my WiFi repeater set up.

    I hinged both my end tables. One to access the outside plug neatly and hold the various cable I use as well as my router/repeater. I also put AC plugs inside for power. The other end table just holds various stuff (2 meter handheld, more adapters, etc.). I had to get the sofa out of the way and pull off the side panel to get to the inside of the cabinet to remove the top and mod everything, including installing the shelf inside and AC outlet. It wasn't hard. Simple European hinges allow the top to pivot up.

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    Larry KE4DMG
    2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
    2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
    Search kalakamods for my mods


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