Norcold refrigerator showed an L1 oP code, what to do?

[AllenV]

We are just back home from a trip out to San Diego from our home in New Mexico. Great trip, but one issue with the NORCOLD 16 cubic foot refridgerator/freezer. I’d offer up the model number but the unit is parked across town in a storage lot. I can go get that data if needed.

The ‘fridge had been running for about 10 days and holding 36-ish F degrees just fine in camps on shore power with our Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X EMS as well as running on propane while on the move. The event occurred at Picacho State Park in Arizona where we pulled in for a transient one-nighter on a hot, 103 F, afternoon. We set up and plugged in to power as usual. Late at night a thunderstorm passed over. After the rain had stopped the ‘fridge began beeping and showing an “L1 oP” code. After switching the power off/on a few times it stopped showing the code and we went back to bed. The next morning the fridge was warmer than usual, mid-40s. As we were 1 night from home we just let it be. It stayed in the 40s until I shut it off at the storage lot.

The manual shows the error code as a thermal switch open (or some such wording, the manual is in the trailer). I suspect that the hot day followed by a sudden and short rain shower with temporary high humidity may have over whelmed the ‘fridge. I plan to go out to the lot and level the trailer and restart the ‘fridge on shore power to see what temperature it gets down to. Our next planned trip is in September, Yellowstone.

What is the suspected issue and suggested remediation plan here?

[FlyStar]

Lots of info on that problem here

https://www.google.com/search?q=norc...&client=safari


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Redapple63]

This is a Thermal Switch Open condition and happened quite often when things get very saturated. It’s primary purpose is a thermal cutoff if it gets too hot, essentially a safety device.

There is a reset procedure using a magnet held directly over the switch for 5 or 20 seconds with the fridge on until you hear 2 audible clicks. It is important you know what set the limit otherwise it will just retrip. If you are confident use the magnet process to reset it and then watch out for at least 24 hours. Best if you have it at home where you can watch it.

You will see a small box with a red light, hold the magnet over the relay and it will reset.

Good Luck and be careful!
Please report back on your results.

Bill

[AllenV]

Lots of info on that problem here

https://www.google.com/search?q=norc...&client=safari


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a Thermal Switch Open condition and happened quite often when things get very saturated. It’s primary purpose is a thermal cutoff if it gets too hot, essentially a safety device.

There is a reset procedure using a magnet held directly over the switch for 5 or 20 seconds with the fridge on until you hear 2 audible clicks. It is important you know what set the limit otherwise it will just retrip. If you are confident use the magnet process to reset it and then watch out for at least 24 hours. Best if you have it at home where you can watch it.

You will see a small box with a red light, hold the magnet over the relay and it will reset.

Good Luck and be careful!
Please report back on your results.

Bill

Thank you both for the quick insight. I'll investigate the switch and see what's up.

[AllenV]

UPDATE:
Yesterday I put an air compressor in the back of the truck and went to the storage lot to start investigating.
Step 1) I read the door label and found the fridge is a Norcold 2110T
Step 2) removed both outside hatches for inspection. Insides looked normal to me but fairly dirty.
Some evidence that water had got inside but dry now.
The LED on the thermal switch unit was NOT FLASHING.
Step 3) used said air compressor to blow loose dirt and debris out of the rear fridge cavity.
Step 4) closed the doors and turn the fridge on to AC mode (the storage lot has shore power.)
Step 5) waited about 1/2 hour

Result: fridge operates as normal, with no error codes. I verified that the black tank at the lower rear was heating up and left.

Next Day, I returned to look at temperatures. ( cheap bi-metal coil type thermometers )
Freezer = 8 F
main refrigerator = 31 F (temp setting is "7", perhaps i'll bump that back to "6" )

I left it running for further monitoring and invested in a better remote thermometer set.

Conclusion: The refrigerator seems normal. The rain storm must have put some water in the back at just the right place to cause an "L1 oP" error without actually flipping the thermal switch. I can't explain with certainty why the fridge temperature remained in the 40s during the final 2 days of our trip. Or, for that matter why the temps rose in the first place. Could be the very hot southern AZ weather ( above 100 F, hot dry wind ) over whelmed the poor thing. The new remote-sense thermometer ought to allow me to keep a close watch on temperatures.

Here is a photo of the back.

[Redapple63]

Glad it seems to have worked out.

Bill