4950 miles in and learned a few things

[ajg617]

Good info, thanks!
Re Google Maps, I use RV Trip planner and run the route through there first so I know any variances, and then either make mental note or write them down for the DW aka Navigator to have, and then run Google maps for driving. I have Android auto in the Truck, and for some reason not all apps on the phone show on the truck screen, hence why I use Google to drive & RV Trip Planner to scout the route first - annoying but its a minor issue. I could run that on just the phone, but I prefer to see the map on the display. Hasn't caused an issue yet, routes are usually only a little different - different exit, for example, coming/going from the CGs.

I use RV Trip Planner to plan the trip but I rely on the Garmin once the trip is planned. If I encounter an unplanned departure from the route due to construction, I rely on the construction re-route signs (happened in Iowa last month). If due to an accident, I will not depend on Google Maps due to bridge clearance issues (almost got stung in Ohio this trip with Google). I always call each campground to confirm reservation and query their local route recommendations and that saved me twice this trip - in Kutztown, PA and also in Staunton, VA. I also made good use of the Trucker's atlas this trip - specific to bridge clearances. Worthwhile doing some homework with that pre-travel days.

The tree issue was actually the Garmin routing me on shorter distance route over country roads up the Delaware Water Gap. No low bridges but glad that I was in the lane on the water side due to the overhang of branches going the other way.

[Gfbaab]

We just returned from a short trip from east texas to Arkansas and found we were able to download rv trip wizard to our 2019 f250 from our cell phone. WOW what a time savor. We printed the pages before we left and the trip wizard software on the ford was spot on.

[ajg617]

Thanks, John. Let us know what B&W and Reese say about the gouging. I guess I'll plan to grease mine.

Quick update - B&W sent me a new ball kit but it has the same play when the shank is inserted into the puck and both B&W and Reese could not explain the gouges. There have to be engineering drawings on this but so far I am coming up empty except for Curt's shank which is spec'd at 2.225 outside diameter. According to Etrailer's website it is 2-1/4 diameter. I'm in for my CP4 recall next week and will ask dealer to just place a Curt/Mopar ball in to see if there is less play. Very disconcerting though about the wear on the ball itself before we hook up again. I'd like the extra 1" over the bed rails but not at the expense of safety.

[Fsalmy]

Quick update - B&W sent me a new ball kit but it has the same play when the shank is inserted into the puck and both B&W and Reese could not explain the gouges. There have to be engineering drawings on this but so far I am coming up empty except for Curt's shank which is spec'd at 2.225 outside diameter. According to Etrailer's website it is 2-1/4 diameter. I'm in for my CP4 recall next week and will ask dealer to just place a Curt/Mopar ball in to see if there is less play. Very disconcerting though about the wear on the ball itself before we hook up again. I'd like the extra 1" over the bed rails but not at the expense of safety.

I have the same issue with the shank being loose in the OEM puck of my F450 and have the same gouges from the Goosebox. I had posted about it on this forum last year, but didn't search for that thread. I had also sent pics and videos to B&W and got a response that the ball and shank were within specs. I don't know how they knew that from a video of me being able to move the shank fore and aft while installed in the puck. Anyway, someone suggested, maybe @geotex1 or @xrated ?, to use fender shims to take up the play. I could not get even the thinnest shim into the puck with the shaft, but did end up using 2 shims on either side of the shank and placed flat on top of the puck opening. That completely stopped the clunk associated with the shaft moving in the puck when starting or stopping. It's kind of a pain, though and those shim edges are sharp! I've thought about using metal HVAC tape or even the Gorilla waterproof tape wrapped around the shank instead, but haven't gotten around to trying it yet - too many other issues to deal with. If its not clear how I'm using the shims, I can probably get a photo later today and post it.

Maybe I should contact B&W again as the gouges in the ball are getting deeper...

[ajg617]

I have the same issue with the shank being loose in the OEM puck of my F450 and have the same gouges from the Goosebox. I had posted about it on this forum last year, but didn't search for that thread. I had also sent pics and videos to B&W and got a response that the ball and shank were within specs.
SNIP
Maybe I should contact B&W again as the gouges in the ball are getting deeper...

That is very frustrating to hear. I just got off the phone with B&W engineering. The OD of the shank is 2.228 ± .002. Curt engineering informs me that the shank diameter for their factory gooseball is 2.225. I would call B&W and get a replacement (they haven't asked me to return the old one yet) because what they just informed me was that the ONLY time they have seen those gouges is with a new gooseball pin box install on these heavier trailers. Reese did confirm that the coupler is cast and not smooth inside. Seems like a new box means throwing away the first ball you use in some cases. Ask for Casy D Weast in Customer Service. He went straight to his engineering staff and got me a replacement. The other CSRs I spoke with there were not as sharp.
regards,
John

[rzrbaxfan]

Overall, a great trip NH-SD-NC-NH. Really over-provisioned food - probably have enough for the second SD trip later this year. I CAT scaled full up before leaving and again empty (full fuel and 1/3 water still) just before we got home.

TV alone - Steer 5480 Drive 3440
Weights going out - Steer 5480 Drive 6640 Trailer 11720 (note 8K axles and 18,000 GVWR)
Weights coming back - Steer 5420 Drive 6540 Trailer 11400

Was impressed with the ability to get in and out of tight sites even with the long bed turning radius. The 310 followed very nicely.

I dumped at last stop and left the slinky connected and gate valves open when raising the nose - what a rush from all the tanks that were just dribbling when level. I estimate I was carrying an extra 150-200 lbs of black and gray water that just wouldn't dump until I raised the nose.

32 gal fuel tank gave me sweaty palms twice when scheduled fuel stops were no longer where they were supposed to be - took over 28 gal which is far more than I had planned for. Also, glad I had disc brakes on 3 occasions!

Trip went very well except for B&W OEM ball which has large gouge marks on the top and is loose in the receiver, screws snapping or pulling out in the interior and exterior (4 locations), lost set of keys, and one shade that started to disintegrate and wrap around itself. Other than trim mostly, everything worked and we had no leaks (knock on wood).

The mattress was far more comfortable than we anticipated but after nearly 30 nights, will probably add a topper.

The Garmin also doesn't recognize routes with low hanging trees

My rig is the same. Kind of frustrating. Even had a clog trying to dump "level". Is this common in GD rigs? Any fixes?

[Soundsailor]

My rig is the same. Kind of frustrating. Even had a clog trying to dump "level". Is this common in GD rigs? Any fixes?

Interesting, there have been times when I didn't feel like I was getting a full dump. I'll try raising the nose next time.

[rzrbaxfan]

My rig is the same. Kind of frustrating. Even had a clog trying to dump "level". Is this common in GD rigs? Any fixes?

Follow up on our situation.....

We also had the issue of not getting a good flush when we were "auto leveled". Raising the front a bit pushed out another 8-10 gallons of waste. My wife said that the auto level never really felt truly level, and used things like the refrigerator doors to make her case (Left doors would close if untouched, and the right doors would stay open). I took my 3' level and tested it in a few places, and sure enough, baseline level was almost 2 inches too low up front (side to side was good). I adjusted things and made it level according to my 3' level, and recalibrated the auto level. We take a trip in two weeks where I'll get to test dumping without having to adjust heights.

[SolarPoweredRV]

Larry,
Trip went very well except for B&W OEM ball which has large gouge marks on the top and is loose in the receiver,......
Not glad to hear about that. I have that ball and plan to use it and a Reese gooseneck on the new truck.... Do you grease it?
Yes - started with white Lithium but was not happy with how it was pressured off and wasn't sure whether the start/stop clanking noise was ball/hitch or ball/puck source so I switched to red lithium wheel bearing grease that I was using to try to take up some of movement in the puck. Also, Reese paints the inside of the receiver black like the rest of the pin box. Kept finding black strings in the white lube when we disconnected. Turned out to be the paint rubbing off where the ball contacted.

I just got off the phone with Reese and have sent below pictures and video to B&W - waiting for their response but at this point, I'm not really happy with the B&W fitment. Pics below.

Side note, I had to add air to the Goosebox bladder 3 times as I couldn't see the bar through the window at fuel stops. Reese tech support told me that a hard bump can cause the pressure release valve to pop of and let some air out. We hit a lot of construction roads especially in MO, IA, IL, and TN so that doesn't surprise me. But I now check the window at each fuel stop. Given the roads in PA, I was really surprised that the bar was centered when we got home.

Attachment 41203
Attachment 41204

I have been running the Reese GooseBox and B&W ball (Ford OEM Puck System) for 3 1/2 years and do not have any signs of gouging on my ball. I have always used the Red and Tacky grease on the ball.

I have a hint for adding grease to your Ball...

I bought a tub of the Red and Tacky grease and I simply tip it upside down onto the ball to lube it up before I tow. saves me the hassle of dealing with the sticky old grease gun.

[ajg617]

I have a hint for adding grease to your Ball...

I bought a tub of the Red and Tacky grease and I simply tip it upside down onto the ball to lube it up before I tow. saves me the hassle of dealing with the sticky old grease gun.

Did that with a tub of white lithium but switched first night to red lithium tub. I'll probably try a tub of red and tacky because you can't hold either of the lithium tubs upside down.

FYI, B&W sent me a new ball and Reese says it can happen due to casting imperfections. Should have checked that first - it's pretty smooth now.