How to monitor voltages in Reflection?

[EddieK82]

I'm interested in understanding how to monitor the electrical system in our RV. I've seen some people splice into wires and hook up the lcd displays and other use a doohicky that goes into the outlets. Ours is a 50AMP reflection, what is the best way to keep an eye on the electrical system to know I'm not overloading it and make sure things are running as they should?

We have a power watcheddog and it's reading:

Watt 916 W
Energy 8568 KWH

Volt Line 1 122V
Amp Line 1 2.7A

Volt Line 2 123V
Amp Line 2 5.2

Can someone in the know break these down for me and let me know what these should max out at and just give me a better understanding of what they mean?

[WhittleBurner]

If you were to overload the system you'd have breakers and fuses popping . If you arent plugging in and runnig power hungry appliances all at the same time chances are you'll not have any issues with over loading the system

[CoChris]

I'm interested in understanding how to monitor the electrical system in our RV. I've seen some people splice into wires and hook up the lcd displays and other use a doohicky that goes into the outlets. Ours is a 50AMP reflection, what is the best way to keep an eye on the electrical system to know I'm not overloading it and make sure things are running as they should?

We have a power watcheddog and it's reading:

Watt 916 W
Energy 8568 KWH

Volt Line 1 122V
Amp Line 1 2.7A

Volt Line 2 123V
Amp Line 2 5.2

Can someone in the know break these down for me and let me know what these should max out at and just give me a better understanding of what they mean?

The Hughs WatchDog (according to their web site Power Watchdog - The World's First Smart RV Surge Protector - Hughes Autoformers) has a phone app that tells you voltage and current and other parameters. Is that where you are getting your numbers? You do not need any additional hardware unless you want.

The purpose of the WatchDog and other EMS' is to protect you from electrical supply (voltage) or load (current draw) and shut you down before any damage occurs.

Your voltage is determined by the park (or other) supply. Nominal is 120V line to ground. There is no national standard but generally you do not want to go below 110v or above 132v. Some people use other limits (114v min is also common). Again, your WatchDog will protect (shut you off) from excessively high or low voltage. This applies for any supply (50, 30, 20 or 15 amps) to the trailer. For a 50 amp SUPPLY, you will have two lines coming in. Each with their own voltage and current. For 30, 20 and 15 amp you will only have one line coming in, although your WatchDog may say 2 lines. In you example above, your lines are at 122v and 123v. That is very good.

Here is the key item ==> Current is the load and you can control that by turning on or off appliances (heater, electrical hair dryers, electric cooking pots/pans, water heater, etc.). You have to be area that the trailer is a 50 amp max load per leg. However, that only applies IF you are hooked up to a 50 amp supply (park pedestal/outlet). If you are hooked up to a 30 amp (or 20 or 15 amp) outlet, those are single leg and the SUM of the two legs in your trailer must be less than 30 amps (or 20 or 15). In your example data you are using 2,7 amps on leg 1 and 5.2 amps leg 2. That is very low load. If you are on a 50 amp supply/outlet either, or both of these could go up to 50 amps. If you are on a 30 amp (or lower) supply/outlet you add the two together for 7.9 amps. This could go up to 30 (or 20 or 15 amps) max depending on your supply/outlet.

Note: Often times (more common in older parks) the higher the load (yours and other campers), the lower the voltage. You may have good voltage at one time, then at another YOU maybe below the current limit but the voltage may drop. this is common in the afternoon when people start using their AC and/or cooking.

The others number: These are mostly just for your information. Current is the main number you can directly control.
Watts are the power you are using at that instant in time. For a resistive load watts = voltage x current. Do not worry about the details as that will get you close enough.

Watt-hours (WH) is the energy you have used since you reset the system. Again for a resistive load this is just watts x hours. Your display is KWH which is Kilo-watt-hours or simply units of 1000 watt-hr. You have used 8568 x 1000 (0r 8,568,000) watt-hr. This is like "gallons of gasoline" and, if you are paying for electricity this is what you will be charged for (note: There will be a meter on the pedestal/outlet that the park will use to charge you).

I hope this helps some.

Chris

[stroguy]

We have a power watcheddog and it's reading:

Watt 916 W This is the current amount of power you are using. P or Power is equal to your current (I) multiplied by your voltage (E).

Energy 8568 KWH This is the energy you have used since being reset to 0. It tabulates your energy usage. If your RV park charges for power at say 13 cents per KWH you would owe them 8568 X .13 or $1113.84. Sure there isn’t a decimal point in there?

Volt Line 1 122V
Amp Line 1 2.7A These are your separate 50 amp legs being monitored. Turn on the AC and watch the numbers rise. Turn on a hair dryer, the microwave and watch the energy/power they use in amps.

Volt Line 2 123V
Amp Line 2 5.2

Can someone in the know break these down for me and let me know what these should max out at and just give me a better understanding of what they mean?[/QUOTE]

[Ynot4me2]

I'm interested in understanding how to monitor the electrical system in our RV. I've seen some people splice into wires and hook up the lcd displays and other use a doohicky that goes into the outlets. Ours is a 50AMP reflection, what is the best way to keep an eye on the electrical system to know I'm not overloading it and make sure things are running as they should?

We have a power watcheddog and it's reading:

Watt 916 W
Energy 8568 KWH

Volt Line 1 122V
Amp Line 1 2.7A

Volt Line 2 123V
Amp Line 2 5.2

Can someone in the know break these down for me and let me know what these should max out at and just give me a better understanding of what they mean?

The WatchDog is a good surge protector and will protect your rig. I have a different but here is a breakdown and some basic explanation.
Watt is what you are consuming presently
Energy is what you have consumed on that ems.
Since you have a 50amp rig, you have 2 legs of power. Line 1 and 2.
You want your voltage in and around 120v. If it goes to high, your EMS will protect you and trip. Too low is really not good on electronic but your ems should trip.
Amp is the current your are pulling per leg. You have 50 amps per leg. 1 side of your breaker panel is leg 1 and the other leg 2.
Hope this helps.


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[stroguy]

Chris was mucho more thorough. Nice work.

[MoonShadow_1911]

I'm interested in understanding how to monitor the electrical system in our RV. I've seen some people splice into wires and hook up the lcd displays and other use a doohicky that goes into the outlets. Ours is a 50AMP reflection, what is the best way to keep an eye on the electrical system to know I'm not overloading it and make sure things are running as they should?

We have a power watcheddog and it's reading:

Watt 916 W
Energy 8568 KWH

Volt Line 1 122V
Amp Line 1 2.7A

Volt Line 2 123V
Amp Line 2 5.2

Can someone in the know break these down for me and let me know what these should max out at and just give me a better understanding of what they mean?

Eddie,

Seeing as we have the exact same rig as you, here is my real world experience:

We have run both AC units, Coleman Mach II 15k one low profile and one standard WITHOUT an EasyStart in either one of them, at the same time, for several hours (something like 6 straight) and never had a power issue.

The have run one AC and my wife has used her flat iron at the same time.

We have had both AC units running (at the time I didn't realize it) and the microwave on high for 5 minutes. Again, without an EasyStart in either AC unit. Once I realized we had both AC units running AND the microwave, I panicked. Then I did some calculations since I wasn't smart enough to look at the Power Watchdog app at the time. We could have pulled upwards of over 80 amps, if the compressor in either AC unit cycled on during that time. Since the breaker didn't trip, I am assuming (however incorrect that may be) that neither compressor cycled during that time. As an average, I calculated with both ACs running and the microwave that we were pulling right at 60 continuous amps. I'm still not really sure why the pedestal didn't trip. Because of this incident, I ALWAYS make sure that only ONE AC unit is running if we are going to use the microwave. In fact, we usually only use the bedroom AC unit during the day and the main AC unit at night. It's quieter in the living room using the bedroom AC and vice versa at night. Also, with the RV Air Flow baffle installed in both units, it's a world of difference.

[jkwilson]

Eddie,

Seeing as we have the exact same rig as you, here is my real world experience:

We have run both AC units, Coleman Mach II 15k one low profile and one standard WITHOUT an EasyStart in either one of them, at the same time, for several hours (something like 6 straight) and never had a power issue.

The have run one AC and my wife has used her flat iron at the same time.

We have had both AC units running (at the time I didn't realize it) and the microwave on high for 5 minutes. Again, without an EasyStart in either AC unit. Once I realized we had both AC units running AND the microwave, I panicked. Then I did some calculations since I wasn't smart enough to look at the Power Watchdog app at the time. We could have pulled upwards of over 80 amps, if the compressor in either AC unit cycled on during that time. Since the breaker didn't trip, I am assuming (however incorrect that may be) that neither compressor cycled during that time. As an average, I calculated with both ACs running and the microwave that we were pulling right at 60 continuous amps. I'm still not really sure why the pedestal didn't trip. Because of this incident, I ALWAYS make sure that only ONE AC unit is running if we are going to use the microwave. In fact, we usually only use the bedroom AC unit during the day and the main AC unit at night. It's quieter in the living room using the bedroom AC and vice versa at night. Also, with the RV Air Flow baffle installed in both units, it's a world of difference.

When connected to shore power you have some leeway with starting current. It’s not limitless, but the system can provide as much current as you’d ever need for a very short time such as during motor startup.

[MoonShadow_1911]

When connected to shore power you have some leeway with starting current. It’s not limitless, but the system can provide as much current as you’d ever need for a very short time such as during motor startup.

I am aware of that, but don't like pushing my luck! I'm a "less than 48vdc" guy, so I respect the heck out of anything AC. Some may call me chicken, but I've been bitten enough in AC circuits to have a very healthy (or unhealthy) respect for it. [emoji4]

[xrated]

EddieK82.....Just as a reference for you. Our Momentum also has the 50A service, which is 50A max. on each leg.....so 100A total...that's 12,000 watts of power. I've had all three A/C units running at the same time, while using the microwave, the water heater on 120VAC, and the fridge running on 120VAC....and never an issue. The 50A service is quite adequate for even the largest of trailers.......you'll be OK.