User Tag List

Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Fireside Member Steve & Sheryl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Posts
    74
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    I get to drop the coroplast!

    After reading other threads here I decided I’d drop the coroplast and inspect everything, come fall. Of course the trailer disagreed and my black valve has stuck open. I haver exhausted every idea and need to access the valve, which is under (actually over) the coroplast. I inspected underneath this morning and it looks like it will be easier to drop the whole thing and do everything. So I have some questions:

    1) Does anyone have either a good or a funny explanation why all the gaps on the driver side of the camper are covered with foam, but only one on the passenger side?
    2) Is there a trick to get the foam off quickly and easily?
    3) I have a propane line that crosses underneath. I think I can slide the coroplast out without disconnecting lines. Does anyone have specific knowledge one way or the other?

    4) Once it is down, are there are any mods or tweaks I ought to do? I’m considering adding tank heaters and maybe running a couple of “spare” 8 or 10 awg wires front to back, just because.

    5) There is some sag in the middle of the underbelly, I’m thinking about adding a metal brace side to side just behind the rear tires.

    6) Finally, does it make sense to split the coroplast into two or three sections? This is mostly so accessing the black tank valve would be easier.

    Its like a hundred degrees outside, so I'd really like a funny explanation about the foam
    Steve & Sheryl
    Bucca and Nyx RIP-Tag and Gordon
    2019 Imagine 2250RK
    Ford F250

  2. #2
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    SW Indiana
    Posts
    1,956
    Mentioned
    42 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The subject of splitting the coroplast has come up before. My opinion is that it would be a huge help when working near the middle of the camper, but you need a means to secure the halves. My trailer has a beam from side to side about midway that would be the basis of a joint if I ever decide to do it.

    I would take a few screws out along the side and have a look before you commit to a full removal on the off chance you can reach far enough by just dropping a corner and part of a side.

    Another option, to which some people seem unreasonably opposed, is to cut a slit for access or an H or U-shaped cut to make a hatch to get where you need. Underbelly tape does a good job sealing them. If need be, you can put in a wooden backer to screw into for structural integrity.

    It’s generally not a terrible job pulling the coroplast until you get to where you have so much material in your way.

    Re-sealing penetrations is a good amount of work, which favors cutting a hatch IMO.
    John & Kathy
    2014 F250 Lariat FX4 6.2L SBCC
    2014 Reflection 303RLS
    SW Indiana

  3. #3
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    SW Colorado
    Posts
    2,673
    Mentioned
    42 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Just unscrew the propane line form the frame. this will give you room. Do not drop everything at one time. Do 1/2 - 2/3 or so, then switch. A big trick to get it back up is using a long 2x4 or 2x6 and jack it longways in the center to hold it up (use several jacks), then work from side to side tugging the coroplast back in place. A big pair of vice grips help. Do about 3 feet along each rail - keep it loose, then seal the edge with foam between the fabric and the frame or silicone and tighten it home.
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  4. #4
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Henrietta, NY
    Posts
    717
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Have a look at how the water tanks are mounted. Now would be a good time to add additional bracing if needed.
    2019 F-250 Supercab
    2017 Imagine 2650RK

  5. #5
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Washington state
    Posts
    506
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I could go for days!

    - split mine into4 sections, 2x2s for cross supports. Drilling frame is tough!
    - added 12v 'self regulating heat tape' on water lines, and pipe insulation,
    - supported all water tanks
    - improved sealing coro to frame.
    - wish I insulated the frame sides
    Rick

    2019 Reflection 150 273MK
    2015 Ford F350 CC SB Lariat Powerstroke
    PullRite Superglide

  6. #6
    Fireside Member Steve & Sheryl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Posts
    74
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    so coroplast is down. I haven't pulled it out because I'll need a few more pairs of hand to get it past the axles. But I can get to everything I want to fix as it sits.

    Dropping it I found: a pen, 4 screws of various sizes, a 1" x 2" chunk of flooring, a 3" ring of PVC (like the black tank line was trimmed) and several misc small pieces of wood. I had 8 or 10 wads of cotton batting that may have originally been stuffed around the tanks. There was also a large sheet of silvered fabric that may have been originally spot "foamed" to the tanks but it had come loose except for one corner. Wires were "foamed" to the underside of the floor and to the frame. Most of the foam attached to the floor had let go and the wires are all hanging. The wires were just sitting on the cloroplast.

    Using foam to attach the wires and the reflective fabric seems a bit inelegant at first, but it makes sense from a speed of assembly point of view. And it did work. For a while anyway. I figure my combination of lots of miles and hot Texas weather contributed to the failure. I think its worth it to drop and inspect every couple of years.

    I'm curious. It seems like assembly starts with the floor, then the frame is flipped upside down and the underside of the trailer (including the coroplast) is installed first, followed by the axles, and then the frame is righted and the trailer is built.

    I'm going to duct tape the silver foil (I assume its a heat reflectant) to the coroplast, zip tie wires, and use some padeyes to improve the routing. The tanks seem well supported, so I'm not adding additional braces. I also like the idea of insulating the frame-I gotta think about how to do that. I just might "foam" on some sheet insulation. I also like the idea of 2x2 cross supports. Definitely one near the axles.
    Steve & Sheryl
    Bucca and Nyx RIP-Tag and Gordon
    2019 Imagine 2250RK
    Ford F250

  7. #7
    Site Sponsor
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Washington state
    Posts
    506
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Duct tape will fail in 6 mo! Less in heat! Unless it's really aluminum foil tape...

    I used some Guerrilla or Flex spray adhesive. Flexseal also makes a nice spray on sealant. Think rubberized paint.

    Spray foaming some ridged pieces onto the frame sounds good. Unless you have a contact with a pro insulator making 'crack sealer' cover an area is hard.
    Rick

    2019 Reflection 150 273MK
    2015 Ford F350 CC SB Lariat Powerstroke
    PullRite Superglide

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

DISCLAIMER:This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Grand Design RV, LLC or any of its affiliates. This is an independent site.