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  1. #21
    Setting Up Camp
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    Jul 2019
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tim, Pam and Popcorn(furry friend) 2018
    2017 Imagine 2150RB, CRE 3000 w/wet bolts, EMS-HW30C, 675 watt solar, Victron 150/45, Victron Multiplus 3000/120-50, Victron BMV-712, 3 BB 100ah LiFePo. [http://visited statesman.com/image/A...KORTXWIsm.jpg]

  2. #22
    Setting Up Camp
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    Jul 2019
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    Hmm. Too pic is rotated 180 degrees. Bottom one is rotated 90 degrees.
    Tim, Pam and Popcorn(furry friend) 2018
    2017 Imagine 2150RB, CRE 3000 w/wet bolts, EMS-HW30C, 675 watt solar, Victron 150/45, Victron Multiplus 3000/120-50, Victron BMV-712, 3 BB 100ah LiFePo. [http://visited statesman.com/image/A...KORTXWIsm.jpg]

  3. #23
    Fireside Member
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    May 2018
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    btw you dont need to pull the fridge to get to the fans. just cut the board and then add some hinges to it when your done. then you have easy access when needed. I keep a roll of aluminum tape on hand anyways and then just tape over the cut lines if you really want to.

    and like a few others said, add some more fans while there. either next to the existing or up higher that pull the hot air from the top after passing the fins. someone mentioned a 3 amp fuse, but I think you will have a 5 amp fuse with that model.

  4. #24
    Setting Up Camp
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    Jul 2019
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    We wired the inside fan to the 12v source at the rear of the refer that is powered any time the refrigerator is on by fishing some door bell wire through the drain tube and splicing onto the spade connector on the 12v side of the control board.
    Tim, Pam and Popcorn(furry friend) 2018
    2017 Imagine 2150RB, CRE 3000 w/wet bolts, EMS-HW30C, 675 watt solar, Victron 150/45, Victron Multiplus 3000/120-50, Victron BMV-712, 3 BB 100ah LiFePo. [http://visited statesman.com/image/A...KORTXWIsm.jpg]

  5. #25
    Left The Driveway
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    Texas
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    I have a Momentum G Series with a Norcold 1200 series frig in the slideout. Had the same problem, refrig stopped working when fans quit. Mine has a top and bottom vent. Fans are designed to draw air up thru the bottom then across the coils and out the top vent. I did a lot more than was needed, but basically I cut the thin plywood board out at the top vent(keep it you'll need to replace it later). Then cut the wires on the two fans up top and removed both. Went to Amazon and found two fans the same size for about $30 ea. (12V fans). Wired both in to the remaining wire and reinstalled. Fridge worked. The plywood at the top must be put back, it serves a purpose in routing the air up and over the coils before exiting the top vent. For added backup, I ordered three Noctua NF-A-14-IPPC-200 Heavy Duty 4-pin fans ($31 ea.), a set of Noctua Extension cables ($10), and a Noctua 4 pin fan controller ($25). I used the Noctua brand, because they are all easy plug and play. I mounted two fans vertical blowing out on the plywood board before replacing it in the upper vent. I mounted the third fan pulling air in at the bottom vent. Connected all with the plug and play cables then connected to the fan controller which I wired to the frig mother board (12v). I can turn the 3 backup fans on and off as need be or run them if we camp in extremely hot weather using the controller. It sounds like a lot, but it really wasn't that hard. I am not an electrician or real good handy-man. Just in case, I also replaced the Norcold 618093 DC Fan Thermostat ($12) located at the very top of the coils. Again pretty easy. Everything came from Amazon. Haven't had any problems since. Hope this helps.

  6. #26
    Site Sponsor
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    Nov 2019
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    S. E. PENNSYLVANIA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakota View Post
    Thank you! It’s about 98 out and with my improvised fans the fridge is at 35 and the freezer at 8. I’m going to look at the back later when it cools off outside.
    Just curious if you took a look at the fuses on your circuit board under the black plastic cover? One is a 120 VAC 5A mini glass fuse and the other is a mini 12VDC blade type automotive fuse.

    Also if you do pull out the refrigerator and replace the fans use a size or two larger wire and wire each fan separately from the bottom on individual fuses.... makes future trouble shooting easier and if a fuse blows you only lose on fan not all 4 of them.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	41446
    Bill & Colleen ~ Schwenksville, Pa
    2019 Reflection 337RLS
    2006 GMC Sierra 3500 8.1L V-8
    Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags
    Front Stabilizer Bar
    Rear Anti Sway Bar

  7. #27
    Rolling Along
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Michigan and Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhittleBurner View Post
    ...If you bypass the thermal switch as opposed to replacing it you could add an on/off switch into the access area outside. We spliced into the existing wire for the added fan.....
    We cannot specifically speak of a Domestic fridge, but we can definitely address the condenser fan(s) switch... Without the fans running it remains very hot up there as the fridge depends on "thermal flow" to cool the condenser (the same reason an older fridge with exposed condenser coils on the back should NEVER be pushed tight against the back wall).

    Our Solitude has a Norcold 120V/Propane fridge which works very well (except for not keeping ice-cream hard). On the outside of our Solitude there are two vents for the fridge, upper and lower. The thermal (Klixon-style) switch to cycle the condenser fans is at the top, inside the upper cover. If you can see/find the condenser fans follow the wires until one of them terminates at the thermal switch.

    I ran a two-conductor wire (brown lamp cord will suffice, from the thermal sensor to the bottom vent cover. At the top I connected each wire to the two wires on the switch using small wire nuts, tape, and zip ties. It is imperative to zip-tie the wires away from the cooling fins as vibration could cause the sharp fins to cut the wires and short them out to the grounded condenser, possibly causing a coolant leak.

    Behind the bottom vent cover was a flat, vertical, mounting bracket of the condenser where I carefully drilled a hole just large enough to mount a single-pole, single-throw (SPST) toggle-switch. The two wires at the bottom connect to each pole of the switch, making the switch in "parallel" with the thermal switch.

    When the outside temps are above 75 degrees or so I turn on the bypass switch which makes the condenser fans run continuously while the fridge is calling for a cool cycle. What we discovered is that we can now run the fridge one or two numbers higher than normal because of the extra cooling flow over the condenser. If it cools off outside we turn it down another number as things start to freeze inside the fridge. Just remember to turn the switch off when dry-camping to lessen battery usage!!!
    Frank and Char + Maya, Newport, Michigan. 2016 Solitude 379FL/2006 F250 6.0 diesel w/dually conversion. 4th rain-sense roof vent, two ceiling fans, Kodiak disc brakes, Carlisle G 14-ply tires, Water Miser x2, final dump valve, water header tank, fridge cond fan switch, outside range exhaust, elec hot water anode, filtered drinking water, triple battery box,

  8. #28
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    Minnesota
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    Hi Are you showing any codes on the digital panel on the front of the refrigerator? The box you are showing looks like the thermal switch and if it's like mine, the use of a magnet will reset the switch. There are you tube videos on how to reset it. That's what I watched and it worked on mine. I also installed auxiliary fans mounted on the outside upper grill and made our refrigerator work more efficiently. Hope that helps.

  9. #29
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
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    Minnesota
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    Quote Originally Posted by billdorn View Post
    btw you dont need to pull the fridge to get to the fans. just cut the board and then add some hinges to it when your done. then you have easy access when needed. I keep a roll of aluminum tape on hand anyways and then just tape over the cut lines if you really want to.

    and like a few others said, add some more fans while there. either next to the existing or up higher that pull the hot air from the top after passing the fins. someone mentioned a 3 amp fuse, but I think you will have a 5 amp fuse with that model.
    Great idea! Thanks!
    Mike & Linda
    303RLS
    2013 F250 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab

  10. #30
    Seasoned Camper
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    Minnesota
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cudakid View Post
    Hi Are you showing any codes on the digital panel on the front of the refrigerator? The box you are showing looks like the thermal switch and if it's like mine, the use of a magnet will reset the switch. There are you tube videos on how to reset it. That's what I watched and it worked on mine. I also installed auxiliary fans mounted on the outside upper grill and made our refrigerator work more efficiently. Hope that helps.
    No error codes. I am thinking of adding auxiliary fans. That household fan I used worked great. Kept the fridge at a more constant temp when it was over 100 degrees and the afternoon sun hitting the side with the fridge.
    Mike & Linda
    303RLS
    2013 F250 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab

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