Mounted and removable Starlink pole.

[MoonShadow_1911]

For those who have considered Starlink RV Service and have postponed it because you didn't find any mounts for the Dishy McFlatface antenna, I have tested and probably over engineered this mount.

What I chose to do is to temporarily mount a pole to the side of my Grand Design with the Starlink antenna on top of it. No holes drilled and removable for travel.

What is needed:

1. FCHO Glass Suction Cups Heavy Duty Aluminum Vacuum Plate Handle Glass Holder Hooks to Lift Large Glass/Tile Suction Cup Lifter/Moving Glass/Pad for Lifting/ Dent Puller (2 Pack) - $21.99 (Unfortunately, at the time of this posting, it is out of stock, so find something similar.)
2. 2 1/2 Inch Thumb Screw Key Adjustable 304 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps, Pipe Clamp, Worm Gear Clamps, Dryer Vent Clamp, Dust Collection, Automotive, RV Clamp 5 pack (2 1/2" Hose Clamps) - $7.50
3. Everbilt 1-5/8 in. x 1-5/8 in. x 6 ft. 16-Gauge Galvanized Steel Line Fence Post from Home Depot - $21.48
4. Windex
5. Microfiber cloth
6. Starlink Pipe Adapter - $37.00
7. Captain Obvious here... A Starlink Dishy McFlatface.

What I did:

1. I used 2 of the hose clamps on each of the suction cup pullers to hold the galvanized fence post to them. In order to do this, I used a flat surface and laid them down, in line, and undid the hose clamps, so I could get them around the handle of the pullers and the pipe.
2. I tightened them down so that the would hold without moving on their own. Not tight enough that I couldn't move the pullers or the pole as needed.
3. Attached the Starlink Pipe Adapter to the top of the fence post. I did use my grinder and Dremel tool to cut the screws down so they wouldn't stick out as far. They include two lengths of screws, a short screws, that is good for poles 2" and above in diameter, and longer screws for smaller diameter poles. The short ones were two short, and the long ones stuck out by about 1/4"-1/3" from the adapter and I was worried that they would potentially gouge the side of the trailer, if the mount wasn't high enough. (It turns out that my fears were unfounded as the adapter would be above the level of the roof, but my OCD...) Again, being OCD, I centered the Pole Adapter on the fence post, with a caliper, this is something that you don't have to do; I think that close would be good enough, unless you are like me.
4. I used Windex (I know that it can/will remove the wax from the size of the coach, so pick your poison) to clean the side where the suction cups would be going. NOTE: DO NOT MOUNT ON A DECAL! Over time, it will most likely pull the decal off.
5. Cleaned the suction cups.
6. Pressed the top puller to the coach and pushed the levers closed (down).
7. Maneuvered the bottom puller so that the lever would not hit the top puller's lever and pushed the levers down.
8. At this point, the pole is upright. I tried to get the pullers straight in a line and get the pole perfectly vertical. I used a level for the pole.
9. Now, you can tighten the hose clamps, as tight as your fingers can get them. I did not use pliers because I was afraid I would break the blue plastic wing knob. I might replace them with 2 1/2" hose clamps that do not have the wing knob so I can really clamp them down.
10. I wiggled the pipe and continued to tighten the clamps as tight as I could. At this point, there is very little play in the pipe, so little in fact that I can grab the pipe and rock the trailer with it.
11. I will next climb on the roof to attach the Dishy McFlatface to the Pole Adapter. All of my photos show the pole mounted without the dish attached, this is because if I took down the internet, in the middle of the day, my wife would throttle me.
12. I will run the cable down the pole, and through the seal at the bottom of the slide. This way, the cable comes in through the water drain chute and won't deform the seal.

I can place this setup anywhere on the coach, so if I have overhead obstructions, or other coaches close to me, I still can get a fairly clear view of the sky.

Some final thoughts. I chose a 6' fence post, over the 8' (or longer) fence rail because the 6' one is a little easier to maneuver and store in the basement. I tested this setup over the last week (without the dish on it) through sun, wind, and rain. I went out each day and tried to move the pullers. They did not move, however, this does not mean that they will never move, so make sure you are checking the mount fairly frequently. I will do so at least twice a week.

I took many photos and compiled them into two photo spreads. I also used the Starlink Pole Adapter photo from their website. The next several posts in this thread will contain the pictures individually.

[MoonShadow_1911]

[MoonShadow_1911]

[MoonShadow_1911]

[BobinICT]

If you ever decide that metal pole it too much. You might want to switch to 2 inch gray plastic electrical pipe with the flared end. That flared end fits real snug on the SL pole adapter. A plus, you can shorten the pole buy cutting it in half and join them with a coupler if you want. No need to glue the sections.

[MoonShadow_1911]

If you ever decide that metal pole it too much. You might want to switch to 2 inch gray plastic electrical pipe with the flared end. That flared end fits real snug on the SL pole adapter. A plus, you can shorten the pole buy cutting it in half and join them with a coupler if you want. No need to glue the sections.

I was thinking about doing 2" schedule-40, but got to thinking that it might flex in the wind, which would drop my intent connection.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

[traveldawg]

Nice set up. Thanks for the photos.