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06-28-2015, 05:24 PM #1
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Electric Jacks Not Working On Front 337
Well I have had a not so pleasant first weekend out with my new 337. First thing that I noticed was water coming out the fresh water over flow tube while hooked up to city water and all switches set properly. The dealer sent a tech to my camp site with a new control panel and that fixed that problem. He also shot some caulk around a couple of places in the shower and stopped a leak I discovered after using the shower. Then no more problems until today after towing to the storage lot where I keep my trailer. I dropped the jacks on the front down to the ground and hit the extend button and nothing happened. So my truck is still attached to the camper. I looked around for a way to manually lower them but could not see anything...Thanks in advance for any insight with this problem. Going to call the dealer tomorrow, maybe they will send someone out to fix it. I would have just towed it to there lot but I had already flipped the lever and pulled the safety pin on my hitch and now it will not go back into the tow position.
HELP, NEW TOO FIFTH WHEELS
PhilLast edited by Phil Gaston; 06-28-2015 at 05:27 PM.
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06-28-2015, 05:48 PM #2
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Welcome to the forum!
Sorry to hear of your problems on your first outing. You may have blown the fuse for the front gear when you last raised the front jacks...if you run them into the mechanical stop when retracting, you'll usually blow the fuse. The in-line fuse for the front gear is just above the battery behind the plastic cover...just follow the power lead from the motor. There's also a place where you can use the manual crank onto the front landing gear gearbox...access hole is in the DS propane tank compartment.
DaveDave and Monica - Gore Bay, Ontario
Vitus the Hungarian Vizsla
2014 Reflection 337 RLS #129
2008 F250 V10 CC Lariat RWD
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06-28-2015, 07:21 PM #3
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Thanks for the info. You don't happen to know what type and size fuse that would be do you? My owners manual is in the camper...30 miles from here.
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06-28-2015, 07:24 PM #4
The fuse is a standard 30 amp automotive blade style fuse (not the "mini blade" style).
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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06-28-2015, 07:51 PM #5
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We hear of that fuse blowing quite often. When the landing gear's raised all the way, it gets in a bind and the fuse does its job.
Everyone with an RV needs to run by AutoZone/O'Reilly's/Advance and pickup an assortment of different size fuses. The 12 volt half of the trailer uses them. The 110 volt half of the electrical system uses circuit breakers.
I was in Advance walking down the aisle this afternoon and completely forgot to pick'em up.
The best way to not blow the front lift fuse is to raise the legs almost to the top and mark it with a Sharpie. Then you'll know how far to pull'em up without popping the fuse.
And don't forget to carry your big paperwork portfolio with the owners' manual that tells you how to crank the arms up if needed.
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06-28-2015, 08:27 PM #6
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Thanks for the information. I feel pretty sure you guys are completely correct about the fuse. I really love the trailer and had a great couple of days in it and everything worked as it should after the water issues were fixed.
Newbie to the world of Fifth Wheels
Phil
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06-28-2015, 08:58 PM #7
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...and please, next time don't release the hitch until you have set wheel chocks, lowered landing gear and taken the weight off of the hitch. Bad things may happen if you do things out of order. Happy trails.
Jim (& Sharon)
2015 GD Momentum 385TH - SOLD
For Sale - 2015 Ford F-350 DRW 4x4 Lariat w/ AirLift bags, Titan 65 gal. OEM replacement fuel tank.
The toy:
2017 RZR XP 1000 EPS SE
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06-29-2015, 07:10 AM #8
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You are so right!!!
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06-29-2015, 03:55 PM #9
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You guys were right five minutes and a 30 amp fuse and I was back in business. Thanks for the educated answers to my questions. Great forum.
Phil
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06-29-2015, 06:47 PM #10
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