Hitch Decisions

[NB Canada]

Good question. For me, even after moving to a 1 ton, the improved turn radius that a HA allowed was worth a lot.
Also I did not see what the OP had for tow vehicle and trailer. So would not try to guess their intentions or needs.

They are fine to have if you don’t mind spending 4K but it appears the OP doesn’t like that idea so that is why I asked him
I have a 1/2 ton with a similar trailer and have zero and I mean zero sway ever.

[Tigger1]

Does anyone have knowledge of a hitch similar to either the 3P or Arrow? Something not $3k - $4k?

This is anecdotal but we know someone with a late model GM 1500 towing an Imagine 2500RL with a Equalizer e4 without issues.

[goducks14]

Good question. For me, even after moving to a 1 ton, the improved turn radius that a HA allowed was worth a lot.
Also I did not see what the OP had for tow vehicle and trailer. So would not try to guess their intentions or needs.

If you click on his username and click on about me you'll see he has a 2022 2600RB and a 2022 F150 Platinum.

[goducks14]

I wouldn't buy an HA or PP unless I was having sway problems. Yes they're both great hitches, BTDT with a used HA. It's every bit as good as advertised. I had an F150 Max Tow a 31' 7200lb TT and using an EQ 4pt sway WDH the combo never felt connected. Probably due to the fact that the TW was 9% from the factory so getting it set up was a never ending task. The F150 had the 145" WB so that didn't help either.
After hitching up the HA it was as good as it gets for towing. almost zero push pull and easy one handed steering.
Funny thing is I could see the TT in the side view mirror still waggling down the raid, but couldn't feel it in the truck.
Moved up to a Ram 2500 CTD and didn't need the HA anymore. It was always a PITA to hitch in dry camp spots with uneven surfaces. So I used a simple EAZ-Lift WDH. Trailer still waggled behind the 2500 but the weight of the truck kept it planted and under control.
If the OP has the coin then go for it. But it may be wasted money to a degree. A simple friction based WDH may well kept everything under control. Using a PP or HA will be an improvement but it may not be a night and day improvement. For some setups it is, for others not so much.

[masterdrago]

Truth is, I'm still sitting on the fence.... PP3, Arrow, or some less costly WDH. Having looked over dozens of forum posts, what I see is a lot of people that make it through as many as 3 different sway control hitches b4 spending the coin on a HA or PP3. I suspect that from reading some of the posts here, that the users are simply inept and cannot tune their camper weight loadout to make the $1k hitches work. Is my sig not coming thru? If not, I'm waiting on the rail car to arrive at the Hardy Rail Yard (Houston) with our F150 145"WB truck. We had a neighbor pick up our 2600RB on Wednesday. As said, I'm not keen on spending $3k-$4k on a 200# hitch if a 100# hitch will be as good.

[Tigger1]

Truth is, I'm still sitting on the fence.... PP3, Arrow, or some less costly WDH. Having looked over dozens of forum posts, what I see is a lot of people that make it through as many as 3 different sway control hitches b4 spending the coin on a HA or PP3. I suspect that from reading some of the posts here, that the users are simply inept and cannot tune their camper weight loadout to make the $1k hitches work. Is my sig not coming thru? If not, I'm waiting on the rail car to arrive at the Hardy Rail Yard (Houston) with our F150 145"WB truck. We had a neighbor pick up our 2600RB on Wednesday. As said, I'm not keen on spending $3k-$4k on a 200# hitch if a 100# hitch will be as good.

Have you checked Craigslist in your area for a used equalizer, husky, etc.? If you can find one for a few hundred $$ that fits but doesn’t work out then you’re not out that much. You could also look at the classified section on different RV forums.

In addition to this Forum, here’s an active Forum’s classifieds:
https://www.forestriverclassifieds.com/

and another active Forum
https://www.jaycoclassifieds.com/

[Wileykid]

A new Husky is only around $400 on Amazon.

For a grain of salt, I read more about the Hensley and PP benefiting the trailers that are pushing the limits of the truck in weight, or length.

[sande005]

The best thing to do would be to start searching this forum, facebook, etc. for other 2600RB owners and find out
1. What their actual tongue weight is when loaded for camping?
2. What hitch are they happy with?

True sway is only a factor of not having enough weight on the tongue, as a per cent of the total trailer weight. Rule of thumb is about 12-13%. So a 7500 lb trailer should have 900-975, etc. It's a guide, and may vary somewhat due to a host of other factors.
If the specific trailer has a slight tendency to start to sway at a bit lighter tongue weight, the friction many hitches use is more than enough to prevent it from starting, and all is fine.
For some trailers, it just isn't possible to get the TW up to the desired range. (Mine wasn't). So the PP or HA will be the only answer.
Me? I started with a hitch that couldn't cope (an Anderson "no sway"). The sway I got was pretty scary a couple of times. Rather than collect a garage full of hitches, I just made the plunge.

But there are 10's (100's ?) of thousands of trailers on the road where other hitches work just fine.

Now, "truck suck" and wind pushes are a different factor often confused with sway. Solutions to those are myriad, and may not be cured just by getting a different "better" hitch. I had issues with those too, with my ProPride, until I methodically worked through all the other parts of truck and trailer setup, and now are no longer a concern.

[NB Canada]

The best thing to do would be to start searching this forum, facebook, etc. for other 2600RB owners and find out
1. What their actual tongue weight is when loaded for camping?
2. What hitch are they happy with?

True sway is only a factor of not having enough weight on the tongue, as a per cent of the total trailer weight. Rule of thumb is about 12-13%. So a 7500 lb trailer should have 900-975, etc. It's a guide, and may vary somewhat due to a host of other factors.
If the specific trailer has a slight tendency to start to sway at a bit lighter tongue weight, the friction many hitches use is more than enough to prevent it from starting, and all is fine.
For some trailers, it just isn't possible to get the TW up to the desired range. (Mine wasn't). So the PP or HA will be the only answer.
Me? I started with a hitch that couldn't cope (an Anderson "no sway"). The sway I got was pretty scary a couple of times. Rather than collect a garage full of hitches, I just made the plunge.

But there are 10's (100's ?) of thousands of trailers on the road where other hitches work just fine.

Now, "truck suck" and wind pushes are a different factor often confused with sway. Solutions to those are myriad, and may not be cured just by getting a different "better" hitch. I had issues with those too, with my ProPride, until I methodically worked through all the other parts of truck and trailer setup, and now are no longer a concern.

Nice write up.

Very accurate

[goducks14]

This is why it's better to tow TT's over 6000lbs with a 3/4 ton truck. A simple EAZ-Lift el cheapo WDH is all you'd need.
Or order an F150 with the HDPP option. Chance are the OP's going to run out of payload before this is over. A PP or HA only adds to the payload issue.
A 2600RB will be around 6200lbs delivered. Base TW with 2 batteries and propane will be around 730lbs.
The average TT/5er person loads about 1000lbs in their trailers. 7200lbs needs about 900lbs for optimum TW.
I've been down this road before. It's not fun. You start dumping money into a situation that should not have started had a 3/4 ton truck been bought.