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07-31-2022, 02:37 PM #31
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Tim & Connie
Biscuit the Dachshund, Chester the Chesapeake
Momentum 350M
Ram 3500 limited SB, 6.7 Cummins
Superglide 18k
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07-31-2022, 03:03 PM #32
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FWIW, I had a toyhauler that had a recall for potentially faulty Iota Automatic Transfer Switch. This was a few years before your 2015, but something to consider.
Howard and Peggy
2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S
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07-31-2022, 03:25 PM #33
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My guess is poor assembly resulting from
1) Lug not tightened properly or
2) Wire not cut straight and fully inserted under lug or
3) Insulation not completely stripped and partially under lug
I have seen all of these occur at one time or another. GD (and all manufactures) electrical work is very poor at best.
I have also seen (on one cheap contactor) where there was plastic film on the contact side of the lug(s). I assume to keep them clean during shipment, but it was never removed during assembly (this was on some Chinese machinery, not a trailer).
Or it could be something else entirely.
You are wise to replace the entire assembly. For the cost, it is a good move.
ChrisChris & Karen
Fort Collins, CO
2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
2018 Solitude 310GK - Sold 7/2023
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07-31-2022, 03:27 PM #34
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There is a good chance that the wire came loose in the lug. Once that happens, things start heating up when under a load. At some point in time, it looks like there was an arc flash that started melting the insulation on the neutral wire and once that happens, it becomes a dead short from the line side to neutral. The transfer switch will experience some vibrations simply from the fact that the contactor picks up and drops out every time you plug into shore power and then unplug and travel. That constant pick up drop out of the contactor over time can cause the screw terminal to loose up a bit...it doesn't take much. Every time I've ever done a new installation and torqued the terminal down to spec, I try to grab the wire close to the terminal and wiggle it a bit...back and forth, up and down. After doing that, you can usually tighten the terminal screw or bolt a bit more....sometimes a 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn on some of the larger wire.
Once you get the new one installed....do the wiggle thing on the wires and check your terminals again for tightness. Then, a month or so after the install, remove the power and go back in and check them again.Last edited by xrated; 07-31-2022 at 03:29 PM.
2016 F350 CrewCab Dually
2018 Momentum 394M...Heavily Modded!
2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000 GT+
Excessive Payload is a Wonderful Thing
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08-07-2022, 12:25 PM #35
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08-10-2022, 02:18 AM #36
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@xrated
Great explanation!Bill & Colleen ~ Schwenksville, Pa
2019 Reflection 337RLS
2006 GMC Sierra 3500 8.1L V-8
Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags
Front Stabilizer Bar
Rear Anti Sway Bar
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08-10-2022, 02:48 AM #37
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I agree that it was probably a loose connection which can be caused by several things as others have stated. You're going to have to cut back more than an inch or two on that burnt cable assembly. The excessive heat that was present on that wiring has most likely damaged the insulation properties of those conductors. Hopefully there is a decent amount of slack in that wire somewhere between the transfer switch and the other end of that cable assembly. Keep cutting the wire back and striping the insulation off of each conductor until you have clean BRIGHT shiny copper wire without any darkening or discoloration. If you have any discoloration on that wire there is going to be loss of insulation value as well... possibly leading to another failure down the road. You don't really need an entire new transfer switch as that 3 pole contactor can just be replaced by itself.... saving you time and money.
Bill & Colleen ~ Schwenksville, Pa
2019 Reflection 337RLS
2006 GMC Sierra 3500 8.1L V-8
Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags
Front Stabilizer Bar
Rear Anti Sway Bar
No power to RV
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