Lost partial power - 2015 Momentum 350m

[Tim & Connie]

We just had our 2nd progressive malfunction. Reads normal and no power.

It could be the EMS. Have you tried plugging directly to the pedastal without the EMS to see if both legs works?

Ok, will check it first. Did have it trip out a few days ago at a park due to low voltage on one leg, maybe it damaged it.

[Tim & Connie]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Still not working. What I have done so far. Plugged straight into pedistal without surge protector. Tested voltages at end of power cord with and without surge protector, voltages as follows
Hot 1 to neutral = 120VAC
Hot 2 to neutral = 120VAC
Hot 1 to Hot 2 = 240VAC
Hot 1 to ground = 120VAC
Hot 2 to ground = 120VAC

Guess I start trying to look at transfer switch next.

[Hoopy Frood]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Still not working. What I have done so far. Plugged straight into pedistal without surge protector. Tested voltages at end of power cord with and without surge protector, voltages as follows
Hot 1 to neutral = 120VAC
Hot 2 to neutral = 120VAC
Hot 1 to Hot 2 = 240VAC
Hot 1 to ground = 120VAC
Hot 2 to ground = 120VAC

Guess I start trying to look at transfer switch next.

My next step would be to check the wires directly at the power center. You know you're getting current to the trailer, now you need to check that the current is coming into the trailer.

[el Rojo]

The right angle elbow that attaches to the trailer fail a lot. (already mentioned). If you have one remove it. Check for power at the trailer end of your cord.

[Tim & Connie]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. The problem is the transfer switch. Completely melted on the incoming power side. Lucky the trailer didn't burn. . Now hopefully we can get the part before our reservation is over, park is full starting Friday. Can we even pull in the slides or use hydraulics without the power wires hooked up through the transfer switch?

[DougW9876]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. The problem is the transfer switch. Completely melted on the incoming power side. Lucky the trailer didn't burn. . Now hopefully we can get the part before our reservation is over, park is full starting Friday. Can we even pull in the slides or use hydraulics without the power wires hooked up through the transfer switch?

If the battery is charged the slides should come in just fine. Keeping the battery charged could be a bit of a problem.

If you are handy and know how to do electrical work you could bypass the transfer switch by connecting the incoming shore power wires to the output wires from the transfer switch. The generator would not work but that should be no problem as long you have shore power. If you don’t want to try that you could just buy a battery charger, plug it into the power pedestal 20 amp outlet (if they have one) and connect it to the battery. That will give you lights and hydraulics and will provide enough power for the fridge, furnace, and water heater to work on propane. If your fridge is 12 volt compressor style be sure to get a strong enough battery charger to cover the amperage needed.

[Tim & Connie]

Hopefully the part is available so I don't have to temp things up. There is some connection between the 12v for the fridge and the transfer switch, fridge would not switch to propane when I shut down shore power.

[xrated]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. The problem is the transfer switch. Completely melted on the incoming power side. Lucky the trailer didn't burn. . Now hopefully we can get the part before our reservation is over, park is full starting Friday. Can we even pull in the slides or use hydraulics without the power wires hooked up through the transfer switch?

Hopefully, my troubleshooting suggestions helped a little. The transfer switch, in my opinion was high on the list, as I suggested, because it has moving parts so to speak. The contactors in there are what I'm referencing as moving parts. Individual contactors in there can be replaced without buying a new transfer switch, but in the case of yours, it looks like there was a phase to neutral arc and it's pretty toasty inside the switch. I'd replace the entire T.S. Also, make sure when you replace it, if you need to cut off the wire ends of the incoming shore power wire,....do it. You don't want to put it back together with a new switch and the wires are burnt anywhere at all. They are somewhat of a pain to work on.....small space, very stiff wire and hard to bend exactly to fit into the lugs of the new one. Just be patient and you'll get there.....just keep the kids away or ear plugs in their ears just in case you say a few "son of a guns" outloud!

PS....when you remove the old T.S., you may want to salvage the other contactor from it to keep as a spare....for a just in case moment.

[xrated]

Hopefully the part is available so I don't have to temp things up. There is some connection between the 12v for the fridge and the transfer switch, fridge would not switch to propane when I shut down shore power.

The fridge should run off of the propane, as long as your battery is charged enough to provide power to the controls for it. If the battery is down too low, the propane side of the fridge will not work.

[Tim & Connie]

Your suggestions were helpful. Plan on cutting back the ends, insulation on a couple of wires melted back a inch or two. One wire cut itself back, melted at the lug. I will replace the whole switch, no way to rebuild that melted mess, and not worth the risk for the $200-$250 a new one costs.

Anyone have a guess on why it failed? My best guess is a lose lug, but don't much about transfer switches.