2600RB Getting Parallel To Ground

[masterdrago]

I asked this on the PP FB page. All I get is that it must be parallel (flat) to the ground.
On our new 2600RB, there is no place to make a common measurement of the travel trailer. The frame has 3 different elevations. Instructions say don't use a bubble level as not accurate. Someone check my process. I put an 8' aluminum straight edge running bow to stern on the kitchen floor. On top of it went the 4' construction level. Made adjustments to the tongue jack until the bubble was as level as possible. Made the required trailer ball height measurement at 25.5". Is this similar to what others with a 2600RB get? I know this cannot be rocket science as the 1.25" spacing on the hitch bar mounting holes ain't exactly precision. Thoughts?

In my mind, parallel to the ground denotes level and vise versa. Can we have one without the other? Again at the front and the rear of the 2600RB, there is no common appendage of the frame. I suppose there might be a way to take readings of all the frame various structure and do +/- adjustments on paper to make a virtual common rail. I've looked at it and so far, have not figured this out. Surely there are others with the same complications. Any help is appreciated.

[Hoopy Frood]

Not to nitpick too terribly, but parallel to the ground isn't necessarily level. If the ground slopes, and you try to set up parallel to the ground, your trailer will slope just like the ground. The main reason to be level is for the refrigerator to perform adequately, provided it is a gas absorption type. If you're running a electric compressor fridge, 12 V or 120 V, then mostly level it to your comfort level (HAR).

[Scott'n'Wendy]

A bubble level is very accurate imo. Assuming you are trying to get it as level as possible for towing so as Hoopy alludes to, ensure you are on pretty level ground and use your bubble level. While nice and level is ideal, a touch high or low is how you will find most trailers because there is only so much adjustment to hitches.
Heck, just parking in a reasonably level parking lot and standing back 30' and eyeballin' it will show if you are high or low or too close to call. Too close to call means you are good.

[masterdrago]

Did I mention that my RV pad (where the tt is parked for the hitch install) is flat and level? So by adjusting the front to back pitch using an 8' aluminum straight edge with a 4' construction bubble level laying bow to stern on the kitchen floor is a mirror of the level and flat concrete pad. I suppose I'm just overthinking this complete process.

Anyone out here with a ProPride on a 2600RB still have there hitch box height number?

[Second Chance]

A bubble level is very accurate imo...

I would qualify that by saying that bubble levels are extremely accurate - as long as you're talking about a good carpenter's level. The little ones intended for RVs (Camco, etc.) not so much. They aren't long enough to guarantee a good interface with the surface they're on. I carry a high quality 36" carpenter's level in the basement to recalibrate the auto-level system when needed.

Rob

[4x4dually]

If you want something precise, browse pawn shops and fleabay for a good level. Most of the bubble levels out there are junk.

[Rabbit]

You are setting up your hitch, not parking to camp. Find someplace that’s flat so the your entire trailer and tow vehicle are on the same flat surface. “Level” in this context means uniformly flat, not necessarily bubble level. Your trailer has a molding on the side that runs along the floor edge front to back. Measure from this molding to the ground at the front and back of the trailer and adjust the front Jack until these measurements are equal. Now your trailer is level to the ground (but may not be bubble level). Now take your ball height measurements.

[Hoopy Frood]

I thought the OP was trying to level the trailer for living in, not traveling. Definitely over thinking it for traveling. Like was said, eyeballing it will work fine, and a quick measurement, comparing front and rear, will put your mind at ease. It's not rocket science. Level is good, perfectly level isn't necessary.

[4x4dually]

Level is good, perfectly level isn't necessary.

Agreed.

I'd rather the front be ever so slightly high. If anything is added to the bed of the truck or more cargo is added to the front storage on the trailer, it will still be level or above. That's my $.02.

[Jerryr]

You are setting up your hitch, not parking to camp. Find someplace that’s flat so the your entire trailer and tow vehicle are on the same flat surface. “Level” in this context means uniformly flat, not necessarily bubble level. Your trailer has a molding on the side that runs along the floor edge front to back. Measure from this molding to the ground at the front and back of the trailer and adjust the front Jack until these measurements are equal. Now your trailer is level to the ground (but may not be bubble level). Now take your ball height measurements.

^^^^Exactly. This is the correct procedure for setting up trailer in order to measure ball height. Ball height is used to calculate and to set the hitch height when installing the Pro Pride hitch.