Oops...Shattered Rear Window 2020 F350 SRW Crew Cab Short Bed

**Wileykid** · 08-19-2022, 06:31 AM

Originally Posted by Indy Tim

The sidewinder will not work with the AUH. The sidewinder has 2 wedges that capture the pin at the 5th wheel hitch to eliminate movement thereby moving the pivot point back to the sidewinder hitch box.
You don't need a slider hitch with a Sidewinder, it replaces the need for one.

Just to add, with the Sidewinder system, the 5th wheel hitch in the truck must use the trucks pucks in order to prevent any swivel movement of the hitch. All the turning is handled at the pinbox, not at the kingpin.

The reason behind all this is you only want one swivel point between your truck and trailer. Two points, and you may be chasing the trailer with the truck.

**GeoffnCheri** · 08-20-2022, 08:06 AM

PullRite Superglide Auto Slider since day 1. Our Super Duty is a 6 3/4' bed and the auto slider makes one less thing to worry about.

**jhick120** · 08-23-2022, 11:16 AM

Thanks again everyone. So far, I am leaning towards the Pullrite Auto Slider. That piece of mind will be worth the expense.

**HappyFiver** · 08-24-2022, 02:50 PM

Ditto Pull Rite SuperGllde. Just make sure you block the wheels and do a pull check before departure.

**Mobile Mesa** · 08-24-2022, 02:53 PM

Originally Posted by jhick120

Thanks again everyone. So far, I am leaning towards the Pullrite Auto Slider. That piece of mind will be worth the expense.

We use the B&W Companion OEM 5th Wheel Slider Hitch to pull our 2021 Solitude 390RK with a RAM 3500 SB. It’s been over a year, and we’ve had MANY tight backing opportunities. Absolutely no worries for us, and I know that there’s no way that I would have been able to accomplish those moves without that slider. Admittedly, we don’t use the truck bed for anything other than the hitch, so I can’t speak to challenges associated with taking it in and out of the truck. Not sure if it would be as ideal for your truck, but it’s been flawless for us.😎

**Maximus216** · 08-24-2022, 02:53 PM

Originally Posted by Wileykid

I use a Reese Sidewinder with a Reese 5th wheel hitch. I was looking at a sliding hitch, but did not want the extra hitch weight on the truck, I actually needed it on the trailer to increase my pin weight. I have an AUH in my garage, but with a tight turn backing up into my driveway, which is also uphill, I did not trust the clearance using the AUH. Maybe if I converted my gooseneck to the B&W with the 4" offset it may work, I just have a system that is working now.

If I did not have the Sidewinder setup, I would have a sliding hitch. Have had to make some tight turns, and knowing I don't have to worry or have someone spot me, is worth it. I can make a 90* turn if I wanted without hitting the truck.

I have one to, you gain a lot of storage in the bed with the sidewinder.

**FatTire** · 08-24-2022, 03:28 PM

Originally Posted by jhick120

Don't mind the additional dialog, just curious what others are doing for the problem with a short bed. I assume that I will need to go to a slider and looking for recommendations based on experiences. As of right now, cost is really not an issue as I do not want this to happen again and I have the funds to make good on what I need.

Hey - OP - have been in your situation. I smashed out my back window and dented my SB cab as well, so I went with the B&W Companion manual slider. This hitch has many advantages over those auto slider hitches as you can clearly see the king pin when the jaws are locked. Lots of people will tell you that a manual slider is a pain in the rump, but it really is not. Backing into my driveway is a real tight turn. So when I get home or arrive at a site that's back-in, I get out and release the locking lever, get back in the truck, and use the brake controller to apply full brakes to the trailer. I then pull forward and the hitch slides back. The lock lever clicks back into the locked position itself.

Slid back, the trailer actually responds to steering input faster, and is easier to back. I have a spot marked on my curb where I aim the rear trailer tire - it rolls over the grass but I have become so good at doing this, I most always get it in one shot. When the truck is inline with the trailer and I'm done maneuvering, I get out, release the lock lever, apply the trailer brakes and back up. The hitch slides forward into normal position, the the lock lever again sets itself. There is plenty of clearance with the tailgate in the closed position.

Pros of the hitch I haven't mentioned are that you can hook up from an angle. Most auto sliders can't accommodate this. You can get it to fit the puck system in your bed as well. Cons - if you can call them that are maintenance needed on the slider bars. They need to be kept clean and lubed in order to slide correctly. I have had to use tire chalks once because for some reason, the brakes were not locking to hold the trailer. A big drawback to this hitch is that it is heavy. You will need 3 - 4 guys to put it in the bed manually, or use some kind of lift. I used an engine hoist. But you can get a contraption that locks in the jaws and has a place to connect a hook. I'd build/buy a gantry but then I'd need to store the hitch on a dolly someplace. If you have the room, you can install an electric winch in your garage, back in, lift the hitch and pull out. My cab wont clear my garage door.....

I leave mine in the bed, so I have a tanneou cover that rolls back - not a folding one. And there is enough room in the front of the hitch and the cab to haul my portable waste water tank. One other thing I have that makes operating the hitch easier is that I have step bars that go all the way to the front of the rear wheel well - I simply step up to access the locking handle.

Best of all - Etrailer.com will drop ship the hitch to you for free. It comes with two weight specs so make sure you buy the correct one for your trailer weight. And to end, my friend just down the street mashed his cab while using an auto slider - it just could not compensate for the turn he was making. There is no possible way to contact the cab with the B&W in the slid-back position. I have been in camp grounds where the end of the road resulted in a cul-de-sac. I slid back and was able to get out in one movement. On the other hand, you may not need to slide back. When I back my trailer into it's storage spot, it mostly a straight shot so no need.

Good luck with it.

**traveldawg** · 08-24-2022, 04:03 PM

Originally Posted by jhick120

Thanks again everyone. So far, I am leaning towards the Pullrite Auto Slider. That piece of mind will be worth the expense.

You'll like the slider.

too bad you are so far away from me. I have a Demco slider for sale in the classifieds here. No need for it now that I got a long bed and am using the Reese Goosehitch.

**Zoom1950** · 08-24-2022, 05:51 PM

Short bed Super Duty and I use a Pull-Rite slider. I have no problem making a 90 degree turn (not a good idea because of the stress put on tires and axles) and still have a few inches of clearance. Been using the slider for three years and the only time I look out for a possible touch is if the camper is at a different twist angle than the truck.

**Bamaman** · 08-25-2022, 12:58 AM

There are plenty of people towing Grand Design fifth wheels with the short bed trucks.

You just have to be aware that very, very tight turns can cause the nose to get into the cab. It's best to have someone watch you as you turn--to make sure you don't get into the cab and to direct you into any tight spots. I think if you're backing into a spot that is uphill a little is especially where you can get in trouble.

I too am a victim. My daughter bought some old fifth wheel with the square style front cap, and of course she shattered my back window. Fortunately, I found a local junk yard with a bunch of SuperDuty trucks and I got a slider for $85. A glass shop did the labor at the same time they were replacing my windshield.