Does your belly sag?

[Cate&Rob]

Whatever goes under there has to be smooth and continuous . . . for aerodynamics. I would bet that you could immediately see the affect of a mesh, on your fuel mileage.

My initial thought is "slide panels" but with suspension, steps, sewer connection, etc . . . it is difficult to figure out how/where the panels would slide to. Maybe fore/aft ?

Rob

[james quinn]

Whatever goes under there has to be smooth and continuous . . . for aerodynamics. I would bet that you could immediately see the affect of a mesh, on your fuel mileage.

My initial thought is "slide panels" but with suspension, steps, sewer connection, etc . . . it is difficult to figure out how/where the panels would slide to. Maybe fore/aft ?

Rob

What if it were just a thirty foot roll up door laid flat with the roller at the front of the trailer, get a fantastic fan remote and power it with a diesel generator. Black powder coat everything and BAMM! all the problems are solved. Oh, and change the Kantleak valve

[scott42blue]

Whatever goes under there has to be smooth and continuous . . . for aerodynamics. I would bet that you could immediately see the affect of a mesh, on your fuel mileage.

My initial thought is "slide panels" but with suspension, steps, sewer connection, etc . . . it is difficult to figure out how/where the panels would slide to. Maybe fore/aft ?

Rob

Rob and Quinn
Good thoughts on chain link. I think you guys put a end to my easy way out of chain link.

Rob
I am with you and looking for solutions. I like the idea of slide panel but 355 has 3 different levels. As you have said axles, sewer pipes and other penetrations would make it hard to accomplish. Any ideas of a hinge joint. I would like for it to be removable by one person.
Scott

[srsmartmoney]

Whatever goes under there has to be smooth and continuous . . . for aerodynamics. I would bet that you could immediately see the affect of a mesh, on your fuel mileage.

My initial thought is "slide panels" but with suspension, steps, sewer connection, etc . . . it is difficult to figure out how/where the panels would slide to. Maybe fore/aft ?

Rob

I am ppp[IMG][/IMG]

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[JCR GD]

I think I'm going to go with my original thought and run 2 or 3 small angle iron braces across the bottom ( in a V orientation) and put a screw/bolt in each end and call it good. Easy to remove and will provide support to everything above.

Probably gunna get to it this weekend. I'll post up how it goes.

(main reason I'm concerned about this is the generator exhaust pipe is getting real close to the belly covering)

[scott42blue]

I think I'm going to go with my original thought and run 2 or 3 small angle iron braces across the bottom ( in a V orientation) and put a screw/bolt in each end and call it good. Easy to remove and will provide support to everything above.

Probably gunna get to it this weekend. I'll post up how it goes.

(main reason I'm concerned about this is the generator exhaust pipe is getting real close to the belly covering)

This idea may work for you.
Scott

[JCR GD]

Thanks Scott but I don't really want to have to re-pipe exhaust especially when it isn't actually a problem yet.

Last night I got a chance to fabricate and install the angle iron and it helped significantly. (Lifted the center about 3" or 4")

Now I just need to clean them up and make them pretty.



I used some 1" angle iron I had in the shop and some 5/16" carriage bolts, gunna put shorter ones in when I reinstall (5/16" x 2") after clean and paint.

[huntindog]

Wondering how many of you have sagging bellies? (on your trailer) (see what I did there )

Mine seems to be getting lower and lower (it's not wet - maybe heat expansion)

I'm thinking of using some 1/2" angle iron or some other material to go cross-wise to help support it.

Has anyone done anything to try and support the belly covering?

Interested in what may have already been done. Thanks

I removed it , got rid of the fiberglass insulation and installed as much of the polyisocronate (SP?) as I could fit in there. It is R 6.5 per inch. I have at least 2 inches everywhere, some places more than 6 inches. Then I reinstalled the coroplast in sections, no longer than 6 ft. So in the event that I need to go back in there I can just remove one section. I used a lot of screws and fender washers. When possible I screwed into crossmembers, Some places I set a 1x4 into the I beams crosswise and screwed into that... It is a big job, though not difficult. I did the same on my last TT as well. Hint: If possible use a mechanics creeper.

[fam5mel]

Others have done this previously. I bought 5” pvc hollow fence post at Home Depot. I placed two under our Solitude 2930RL. Dual purpose. One to place my collapsible ladder in and one to use for sewer hose and fittings. I placed it near the hose dump. The factory tube was in rear and a pain to get too. Together they pushed coroplast up flush. Works for me. I made brackets attached with beam clamps to support pvc post. Also put end caps on them. If you do a search there are pictures on forum.

[Dick Noble]

Once upon a time, I installed aluminum siding under a 5th wheel. It was a PITA! Getting it around the spring shackles, etc was hard. It had to be braced every 2 feet, and overlapped. I had to rivet it together ( to prevent sag) so it would be hard to remove it. I needed to do something because the under belly material was falling apart ( thanks Keystone). I even bought a Rage saw to be able to cut the sidding. I'd only do this if I could not figure anything else.