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    Share your AC easy start results...

    Posting this thread because I am confused about what I read online about RV AC amperage draw. Curious to know if anyone has had the same results as me. I have a MicroAir Easy Start with Bluetooth. I installed it so we would be able to run air when on a 15 or 20 amp circuit and because I have a Honda 2000i generator which I would use occasionally. Many articles and threads say that the startup load for their AC is much lower than what I experienced prior to and after installing my EasyStart and wondered what others have seen.

    During the "learning" phase of installing the EasyStart, the Bluetooth app indicated that the initial compressor startup was drawing 50 amps. After the learning process was complete and to this day, it shows the initial draw is about 23 amps. The running draw post-startup average is 12-13 amps. Of course that initial burst only lasts milliseconds, but the purpose of the EasyStart is to "soften" that initial draw. It does not affect the running amperage at all; this is according to MicroAir.

    What confuses me is many say that their initial draw is 16 amps or less and the running amperage is often listed in the range of 8 to 10 amps. I've never seen my start up less than 22 amps, and running amps less than 12. Anyone care to share their experience thoughts? Did anyone else see an initial draw as high as 50 amps prior to installing an easy start? I also wonder if someone seeing an 8 amp running draw is on a 15 amp circuit and perhaps receiving low voltage thus dropping the amperage reading? Or wouldn't that even make sense? Thanks.
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    Site Sponsor NB Canada's Avatar
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    Share your AC easy start results...

    My stock Furrion 14.5k without any “easy starts” draws roughly 15-16 amps on start and 10-11 running

    According to my Hughes watchdog app
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riverbug View Post
    Posting this thread because I am confused about what I read online about RV AC amperage draw. Curious to know if anyone has had the same results as me. I have a MicroAir Easy Start with Bluetooth. I installed it so we would be able to run air when on a 15 or 20 amp circuit and because I have a Honda 2000i generator which I would use occasionally. Many articles and threads say that the startup load for their AC is much lower than what I experienced prior to and after installing my EasyStart and wondered what others have seen.

    During the "learning" phase of installing the EasyStart, the Bluetooth app indicated that the initial compressor startup was drawing 50 amps. After the learning process was complete and to this day, it shows the initial draw is about 23 amps. The running draw post-startup average is 12-13 amps. Of course that initial burst only lasts milliseconds, but the purpose of the EasyStart is to "soften" that initial draw. It does not affect the running amperage at all; this is according to MicroAir.

    What confuses me is many say that their initial draw is 16 amps or less and the running amperage is often listed in the range of 8 to 10 amps. I've never seen my start up less than 22 amps, and running amps less than 12. Anyone care to share their experience thoughts? Did anyone else see an initial draw as high as 50 amps prior to installing an easy start? I also wonder if someone seeing an 8 amp running draw is on a 15 amp circuit and perhaps receiving low voltage thus dropping the amperage reading? Or wouldn't that even make sense? Thanks.
    While I have the EasyStart, it's not the Bluetooth model. Since my power monitor isn't easily viewable, I haven't checked to see what my A/C (Coleman Mach 5 - 15,000 BTU) draws when starting. I can say that the A/C runs fine on my 2,300-watt peak 1,850 running generator, so about 19 Amps are available for startup. So pretty clearly my startup with the EasyStart is under the 22 Amps you mentioned. Which A/C do you have?
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    Quote Originally Posted by NB Canada View Post
    My stock Furrion 14.5k without any “easy starts” draws roughly 15-16 amps on start and 10-11 running

    According to my Hughes watchdog app
    I'll repeat what I just posted in another thread. A squirrel cage induction motor, like the one that powers the compressor on those A/C units will normally pull up to 4 TIMES the current on start up vs. running amps, WITHOUT a soft start unit installed. That initial inrush of current only lasts milli-seconds, but it is there, none the less. That is called Locked Rotor Amperage (LRA) or Locked Rotor Current. And using a Hughes watchdog, is simply not fast enough to catch the actual inrush current, that's why it is showing you that 15/16 amps on start up. When you get into 3 Phase Induction motors (a bit off topic here), they can sometimes pull up to 7 times the FLA (Full Load Amperage). If you ever get a chance to look at the data plate on one of these A/C units (it's probably a sticker under the cover of the unit up on the roof), look for the current draw at LRA. I've seen 53/54 amps for the LRA on a 15K BTU unit before, so seeing a 50A inrush on start up, without a soft start, is totally normal. If the outside temperatures are very hot, that number can be even higher, depending on how quickly the unit cycles off/on and whether or not the refrigerant in the cooling loop has had time to equalize between the high side and the low side of the refrigeration loop.
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    Rolling Along Tigger1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    I'll repeat what I just posted in another thread. A squirrel cage induction motor, like the one that powers the compressor on those A/C units will normally pull up to 4 TIMES the current on start up vs. running amps, WITHOUT a soft start unit installed. That initial inrush of current only lasts milli-seconds, but it is there, none the less. That is called Locked Rotor Amperage (LRA) or Locked Rotor Current. And using a Hughes watchdog, is simply not fast enough to catch the actual inrush current, that's why it is showing you that 15/16 amps on start up. When you get into 3 Phase Induction motors (a bit off topic here), they can sometimes pull up to 7 times the FLA (Full Load Amperage). If you ever get a chance to look at the data plate on one of these A/C units (it's probably a sticker under the cover of the unit up on the roof), look for the current draw at LRA. I've seen 53/54 amps for the LRA on a 15K BTU unit before, so seeing a 50A inrush on start up, without a soft start, is totally normal. If the outside temperatures are very hot, that number can be even higher, depending on how quickly the unit cycles off/on and whether or not the refrigerant in the cooling loop has had time to equalize between the high side and the low side of the refrigeration loop.
    This is good to know, thanks for sharing.

    If I’m on a 30A campground pedestal and say using 2-4amps for other things and my Coleman Mach 15K AC shows 53/54 amps at LRA, (I haven’t checked so just for example) where do those amps come from?
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    Site Sponsor NB Canada's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrated View Post
    I'll repeat what I just posted in another thread. A squirrel cage induction motor, like the one that powers the compressor on those A/C units will normally pull up to 4 TIMES the current on start up vs. running amps, WITHOUT a soft start unit installed. That initial inrush of current only lasts milli-seconds, but it is there, none the less. That is called Locked Rotor Amperage (LRA) or Locked Rotor Current. And using a Hughes watchdog, is simply not fast enough to catch the actual inrush current, that's why it is showing you that 15/16 amps on start up. When you get into 3 Phase Induction motors (a bit off topic here), they can sometimes pull up to 7 times the FLA (Full Load Amperage). If you ever get a chance to look at the data plate on one of these A/C units (it's probably a sticker under the cover of the unit up on the roof), look for the current draw at LRA. I've seen 53/54 amps for the LRA on a 15K BTU unit before, so seeing a 50A inrush on start up, without a soft start, is totally normal. If the outside temperatures are very hot, that number can be even higher, depending on how quickly the unit cycles off/on and whether or not the refrigerant in the cooling loop has had time to equalize between the high side and the low side of the refrigeration loop.
    All I know is that it runs effortlessly off of my house exterior 15 amp circuit with the fridge on as well
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundsailor View Post
    While I have the EasyStart, it's not the Bluetooth model. Since my power monitor isn't easily viewable, I haven't checked to see what my A/C (Coleman Mach 5 - 15,000 BTU) draws when starting. I can say that the A/C runs fine on my 2,300-watt peak 1,850 running generator, so about 19 Amps are available for startup. So pretty clearly my startup with the EasyStart is under the 22 Amps you mentioned. Which A/C do you have?
    My unit is a GE 15K BTU.
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    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigger1 View Post
    This is good to know, thanks for sharing.

    If I’m on a 30A campground pedestal and say using 2-4amps for other things and my Coleman Mach 15K AC shows 53/54 amps at LRA, (I haven’t checked so just for example) where do those amps come from?
    That start up current, also known as "inrush" or Locked Rotor current only lasts for a very minute amount of time....2 or 3 milli-seconds. Just as soon as the rotor of the motor starts to rotate, the current value starts coming down. As the motor continues to rotate faster and faster until it reaches it's rated speed, the current will continue to drop until the motor is running at the nameplate data speed....or thereabouts. At that point in time, the motor will be pulling a steady current....likely very close to the rated FLA.....Full Load Amperage. That all sounds like a lot going on, and it is, but it's likely that the motor goes from 0 RPMS all the way to it's rated speed in way less than one second.....so pretty much....start the motor and before you can blink an eye almost, it's up to speed. The speed at which this all happens is so quick, that the 30A breaker on the pedestal does not have time to trip from overcurrent.. Remember, the high current 53/54 amps is only there for maybe 2 or 3 milliseconds, then it start dropping. The breaker simply cannot react quickly enough to trip.....unless you are maybe dealing with a defective breaker.

    Just as a reference, some of the larger motors that I've worked on over the years.....(5000 HP.....8000 HP, and a few 20,000 HP three phase motors), some of those take sometime 3 maybe 4 seconds to come all the way up to speed...but of course their overprotection equipment is designed for that and set to take that into account. Hope that helps a bit.
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    Site Team xrated's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NB Canada View Post
    All I know is that it runs effortlessly off of my house exterior 15 amp circuit with the fridge on as well
    Read my explanation and you can understand why.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigger1 View Post
    This is good to know, thanks for sharing.

    If I’m on a 30A campground pedestal and say using 2-4amps for other things and my Coleman Mach 15K AC shows 53/54 amps at LRA, (I haven’t checked so just for example) where do those amps come from?
    As I understand it, household electrical systems can handle the excess surge required on startup, but it's more of a challenge for generators and can certainly pop breakers on 15 or 20 amp circuits depending on what else might be connected and running on that circuit. Maybe someone with more expertise can confirm and explain it for both of us.
    Chad
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