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  1. #21
    Left The Driveway
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    My mobile tech said not to do it, because it puts undue stress on the slide mechanisms and the floor when they are not full opened and locked into place. He is a great mobile tech, and I trust him 100%. Therefore I dont do it. I will only go in the slide if its full extended.

  2. #22
    Seasoned Camper 4x4dually's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronb94 View Post
    might want to consider camp with larger sites? must be real small not to have room for slides to be out,,, just sayin,,
    Every time we go to a new spot, we will walk the entire thing and check out which sites would work for us in the future. I'll make notes of ones that are fine (green), ones that we could make work if all the good ones are taken (yellow) and the ones that would not work for our camper at all (red). It takes the risk out of getting somewhere and not having room to get in or out or run slides etc. I use google earth and pin all the spots. Then I can make notes on each one if I want. When we book a site, I just open it and pick a green one that shows to be open.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Plus, it's sometimes hard to find site maps that weren't drawn by 9 year old kids with a box of crayons. We can also just click "directions" and take us to any of them.
    Last edited by 4x4dually; 08-29-2022 at 12:50 PM.
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  3. #23
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    Dually, that's a fine idea, as our one slide extends out 38" and some parks have a huge amount of trees next to the pads. A good example is Canyon of the Eagles.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails canyon of the eagles GE.jpg  
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  4. #24
    Seasoned Camper 4x4dually's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterdrago View Post
    Dually, that's a fine idea, as our one slide extends out 38" and some parks have a huge amount of trees next to the pads. A good example is Canyon of the Eagles.
    I've been meaning to cut a broom handle to the length of all out slides and put in the pass-through on the wall. Then we can make sure we have clearance when we first back in before we even unhook. Move it until we like it then unhook and we know the slides will clear.....or just cut down the trees and burn the evidence. LMAO
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  5. #25
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    I got in big time trouble on our first real trip after we got our Montana 3791 while looking for the camp site at Canyon of the Eagles. I had brought one of those extending trimmers and was trimming low hanging branches on one of the park roads. Turns out, all the trees are "protected", so no trimming allowed.
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  6. #26
    Seasoned Camper 4x4dually's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterdrago View Post
    Turns out, all the trees are "protected", so no trimming allowed.
    Hence my "burn the evidence" comment. LOL

    I let the kids climb up top and trim and I keep lookout.
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  7. #27
    Long Hauler geotex1's Avatar
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    First, depends on the slide type because it's a huge NO for through-frame mechanisms. Schwintek slides bear differently and it can be done. Cable slides... Those don't like anything...

    For the through frame, go tour the factory and see how the slide boxes are manufactured... It will be an "oh, wow!" minute. If that was not convincing enough, get down on the floor, eye level, and have someone put the slide out. Pull it back in, go outside, sit on the ground, and watch the slide come out and the floor during that motion. It should become real obvious to you why you don't want to be in the box when retracted for this type!

    Now, all that said, I can tell you from personal experience that you do not want to be that person who breaks the screws out of the edge of the floor that run up into the sidewall!! My godson, not knowing any better and very excited about our camping trip years ago, was that person for our superslide. Dealer quote was $3900 to repair. Independent was $2400. Insurance decided it wasn't covered. Left to me to fabricate a rolling cradle to lift the slidebox out and back in. After that, an entire weekend to remove and reinstall myself, including pulling out/reinstall the couch, 12V and 120V electrical, slide topper, and interior trim. All to replace the 2 broken screws and add a 3rd after taking off the slide ski and the joy of putting that back on (double sided tape, butyl tape, Geocell caulk) and then everything else back together. Fortunately, I was warned the ski would crack and break and I ordered a set for the repair...
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  8. #28
    Site Sponsor Petrovsky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dryfly View Post
    OK, got it, and good point. In my case the floor is warped, and when retracted the center of the slide rests on the trailer's floor. Tight fit and I'm amazed I haven't had trouble like others with slide scraping the vinyl flooring. Makes me feel a little more comfortable about sitting on the slide when in.

    The right and left ends of the slide floor are about 3/4" above the trailer's floor. When I had to keep the slide in on a trip I would shim each end so if accidentally stepped on it would not break the OSB edges.

    Lot of factors go into the decision of using the slide when retracted, but wise to take care not to damage.
    It appears that I am in your camp. I just searched for warped floors. When retracted the midsection lightly scrapes on the floor while both ends are up about 1/2 to 3/4 inches. I have a bench seat at the middle section that has loosened off its base however still attached well to the slide wall (thank the man upstairs). When I travel I use large door stops under both ends and between the floor and the bench to try to limit the up/down motion. I too may be out of warranty but will call GD as this is a structural defect and should be carried under their structural warranty. I do however am thinking of interim potential solutions. 1). At the lowest part of warp and to protect floor....when retracting place thin sheet teflon so it sits on the lip. 2). Since when extended it sits flush with edges with no warp, what about retracting the floor on two equally spaced teflon shims. Part of shim resting on floor with rubber insert to prevent sliding and shim tapered from 0 to 1/2 inch. What do you think?
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  9. #29
    Big Traveler dryfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrovsky View Post
    however am thinking of interim potential solutions. 1). At the lowest part of warp and to protect floor....when retracting place thin sheet teflon so it sits on the lip. 2). Since when extended it sits flush with edges with no warp, what about retracting the floor on two equally spaced teflon shims. Part of shim resting on floor with rubber insert to prevent sliding and shim tapered from 0 to 1/2 inch. What do you think?
    I honestly don't know the answer. As you know, they make protectors that can be placed on the floor to isolate the floor of the slide from the trailer floor on retract. This is the solution for preventing the slide floor from tearing the vinyl flooring, and several have commented on how well it works.

    As far as your solution # 2 I'm not sure I fully understand the way you are suggesting doing it. With all it's faults my slide is working and I'm a little concerned in making modifications as the outcome may not end well. As I stated above, my concern has been stepping on the corners of the OSB slide corners and breaking them off. I'm re-thinking now that another issue mentioned by @geotex1 may be putting weight on the slide floor causing it to drop down from the sides (where it is off the trailer floor when retracted) and separate from the slide walls. However, the refrigerator is on the left side and it weighs more than I do, and bounces around while going down the road, so it might be a moot point.

    I'd be real curious to hear what GD says if you call them on this issue.
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  10. #30
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    The fridge slide is built a LOT different. It is not a flush to floor design, and it has rollers under it. IOW It is designed to support the weght in any position. The living room slide is typically a flush to floor design. Without writing a book.....It is NOT designed to have a lot of weight in it until it is fully opened.
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