Just brought home from dealer, slide inop already!

[Grizz80]

UPDATE II...
and the saga continues... followed the procedures to sync the motors, the first of 6 ext/retract 10-12" worked great, the other 5 attempted evolutions motor quit and could not retract, went to use the bypass function and the bypass button fell off! at the moment I hate this trailer between the rear jacks riding too low and now the slide

UPDATE... I'm sorry what a piece this slide system is, went back out to do something in the trailer and fricken slide extended maybe 2' then the forward motor stops and slide starts to bind, try to retract and forward motor doesn't respond, try to extend again and the forward motor works for a second or two the stops, after cycling between in/out numerous times and the forward motor working/ not working I was able to fully retract. PREVIOUS POST...Went to open the slide and got a quarter of the way out and one motor stopped, tried to slide back in and wouldn't work, after numerous attempts finally got it retracted then extended fully. Not sure what happened but after switching in, out, in, out etc.. finally worked.... for now, afraid to try and retract.

[Calbar]

Went to open the slide and got a quarter of the way out and one motor stopped, tried to slide back in and wouldn't work, after numerous attempts finally got it retracted then extended fully. Not sure what happened but after switching in, out, in, out etc.. finally worked.... for now, afraid to try and retract.

I am assuming this is a Schwintek slide. If that is the case your in, out, in, out may have recalibrated the motors which needs to be done occasionally. With Schwintek slides never open them partially or close partially. Always fully open and close them and occassionally you will need to follow the recalibration process in your manual or better yet on Lipperts website.

Rob

[Grizz80]

thanks for the info

[NB Canada]

I assume you tried it at the dealer. Are you holding the button for 5-10 seconds after the noise all stops when retracting or extending?

When are you deploying the slide? After leveling?

I make sure I deploy and retract my slide before any stabilization is done Doesn’t your trailer have auto leveling? I would never use it before deploying slide

[Grizz80]

so are you saying you deploy the slide prior to autolevel or after?

[NB Canada]

so are you saying you deploy the slide prior to autolevel or after?

I don’t have auto level on my Imagine but I deploy my slide after I level the trailer with the wheels then I lower my stabilizers. Never before

Camping this season a guy pulled in to the site beside me with a Kodiak smaller than my GD and he had auto level. Imo the auto level was really twisting that trailer. I couldn’t believe it
Just a theory like I said but jacks can really flex a frame to a point doors don’t work well so why couldn’t it affect a slide
They are built and tested on their wheels not on jacks

[Grizz80]

of course worked fine at the dealer lol

[Keebler]

I make sure I deploy and retract my slide before any stabilization is done Doesn’t your trailer have auto leveling? I would never use it before deploying slide

This statement is in contradiction to my owner's manual. My manual specifically states as the first step, "1) Level and stabilize the RV." (page 125 of the 2017 Solitude owners manual)

[NB Canada]

This statement is in contradiction to my owner's manual. My manual specifically states as the first step, "1) Level and stabilize the RV." (page 125 of the 2017 Solitude owners manual)

And what makes the owners manual correct?
If you read this entire post I stress to level the trailer first The issue is with auto leveling is that it could theoretically lift the wheels off of the ground which would undoubtedly flex the frame and body
If you don’t agree with this that is okay. It is my opinion it does
Now with coach’s without auto leveling it has been my experience that everyone uses an impact gun to run down stabilizers
Imo this can flex the frame also.
This is all theory but something is binding these slides so that they jump track and fail

I use a level mate pro on my trailer. I back in and always level side to side immediately then unhook and level nose. Hook up power and then deploy my Schwintek. It glides out flawlessly. Then I drop my stabilizers with the hand crank
YMMV

[Keebler]

And what makes the owners manual correct?
If you read this entire post I stress to level the trailer first The issue is with auto leveling is that it could theoretically lift the wheels off of the ground which would undoubtedly flex the frame and body
If you don’t agree with this that is okay. It is my opinion it does
Now with coach’s without auto leveling it has been my experience that everyone uses an impact gun to run down stabilizers
Imo this can flex the frame also.
This is all theory but something is binding these slides so that they jump track and fail

I use a level mate pro on my trailer. I back in and always level side to side immediately then unhook and level nose. Hook up power and then deploy my Schwintek. It glides out flawlessly. Then I drop my stabilizers with the hand crank
YMMV

We are in violent agreement that no one data point (such as an owners manual) makes anything correct, and it is up to each owner to form their own opinion. I simply provided a factual data point to add to the ability of owners to form their own opinion.