Insulation for forward storage area

[Dooley]

I'm certainly not making it up. I'm in MN so I know what freezing temps are, and I traveled from MN to FL in December and back in Feb. Water flowing through my lines in below freezing temps and thermostats that tell me it's in the 60's is the only proof I can share.

Anyway, one other option you might consider is using that heat duct under the bed to blow warm air into storage compartment. You could put a Y connector in the duct so you can get some air to blow out the existing vent and some directed to a new vent for the compartment. Or insulate. Obviously, you wouldn't need to insulate the ceiling of the compartment since that's the bed or the interior wall. Bubble type insulation that could conform to the curve on the front wall would probably be easiest. Good luck.

I believe you; you are most certainly acquainted with freezing temperatures. My best friend played football for Minnesota when Bud Grant was coach. He said he nearly froze to death. Coach Grant did not allow players to wear gloves. I digress. My goal is to try to keep the living area warmer. I watched a guy on youtube insulate his forward storage area. He went as far as removing the paneling in the storage unit and placing boards of foam insulation. As well as the floor, ceiling, compartment doors and the curved (for lack of better words) front wall.

[Riverbug]

Haha, I remember the days of the purple people eaters. For watching fooball, there's nothing better than watching them play in the snow if you ask me. As a fan, there's nothing better than an indoor stadium if you ask me.

I might be confused with what you are trying to do. I thought you wanted the storage compartment warmer, but you actually want the interior warmer?

If you are feeling like the furnace doesn't keep it warm enough I wonder if you have an issue with your furnace or heating ducts? Do you get massive heat out of the vents in the bathroom and in the kitchen? Like to the point that when you sit on the toilet your toes nearly turn to crispy bacon bits if the furnace is running? Ours is so warm that we have to shut the furnace off before using the bathroom or we roast. And the vent outside the bathroom door blows so hard that it has no trouble heating the entire space alone. There is also a vent under the bed but that one doesn't blow as much air but it's still pretty warm. If it's below freezing and we set it at 68, it's very cozy in there. And as I said, it has no problem keeping the temp up in the storage bay and the belly where the tanks and water lines are. Now the temp sensor in the belly is at the back under the bathroom so the heat ducts and furnace are back there too, so I'm sure it is colder toward the front of the belly but we've had no issues with water lines freezing when using the fresh water tank. Just wonder if there is something else going on vs an insulation issue?

[Stealth13777]

We had a very similar setup under the bed in our 2019 17MKE. I felt like there was constant cold air around the bed, so I sealed and insulated the ceiling of the front storage and side wall of the front storage, with the exception of the connection panel. I used foam board from the hardware store. It did alleviate our issues with cold air around the bed and in the under bed drawers.

Never measured what temp that storage actually gets to, I just know it was always noticeably colder/hotter there versus rv interior temp. Nothing in there I cared to heat except the plumbing, and it had dedicated heat behind the panel, so I didn’t mind isolating the storage from the rest of the living area.

I have not done the same in our new trailer and hoping I don’t have to - will see this winter.

[safron]

Use Dynaliner, it’s the best option in my opinion. Worked great for me.

[gojoenow]

Hi ,insulated 2017 Imagine front compartment ,100% heating and cooling trailer. Can send pictures.

[MurphyIRE]

On my previous trailer, I used Aluminum clad rigid foam (R13) and then 1/8" ply to the cargo hold side to protect the foam. This was to isolate the front compartment from the main cargo.

[TheRealRoland]

Old thread, i know, but i'm thinking of using the pink sheets (1, 2 inch thick? you can cut to size), cutting them into smaller panels that fit in between the slats of the 'ceiling' of the storage. That also would plug the holes between the side wall and the ceiling, through which critters can get into the front cap of the trailer (and into your ceiling, and bedroom drawers area! at least in the 2610ML).

I would then also add some thinner panels of that pink sheet stuff behind the drawers (again, for the 2610ML) - which would probably also reduce a lot of draft when it's cold and windy outside. See my 'second impressions' thread on how i had to combat the mice getting into and throughout the camper :-(

[WolfePack]

I insulated the storage compartment roof with 1 1/2" foam and the interior wall with fiberglass insulation. You should also consider insulating the box that houses your water lines where the city water is connected.

When you have the furnace on, heat won't escape into the storage compartment and out the pass thru doors. The box that houses your water lines where the city water is connected gets heat from the hole where the electrical and water lines go from the belly to the box. It is amazing how much air passes thru that big hole. There are many gaps, cracks, and holes that heat or AC will escape out of your trailer.

[RV2600RB]

I plan to insulate the front compartment also using rigid foam covered by thin plywood. It should keep the bedroom warmer.
Good idea about the city water box.
Thanks.
Rich