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  1. #1
    Seasoned Camper
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    Shimming my tow bar: recommendations?

    I tow with a ProPride on my setup. Like most factory hitch receivers, mine has a bit of slop in it. The vertical slop in my receiver means that my ProPride stinger/tow-bar doesn't sit flush inside the receiver sleeve. It shows signs of wear at the front bottom, and top rear (since with the WDH bars engaged, it's twisting in that direction). So much so that there is a groove worn right into the top of the bar at the back of my receiver.

    I have some wide, flat washers that I have been using to shim this, since I get best weight distribution when I keep the point of the stinger as low as possible. These washers wear out instead of my shank, but I'm looking for a more permanent setup.

    What's flat, thin, but hard enough not to wear? I suppose I could weld a nice bead along the rear surface, then grind it to fit into the receiver. Any other ideas?

    I'm pretty sure I'd just bend or snap off one of those anti-rattle clamp thingies once I put that much WDH load force pulling up on it.
    Last edited by uwskier; 08-31-2022 at 06:47 PM.
    Matt, Irene, and Ruby (our Golden Retriever)
    2022 Imagine 2600RB with ProPride 3P
    2024 Silverado 2500 LTZ Gasser (3500 payload)

  2. #2
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uwskier View Post
    I tow with a ProPride on my setup. Like most factory hitch receivers, mine has a bit of slop in it. The vertical slop in my receiver means that my ProPride stinger/tow-bar doesn't sit flush inside the receiver sleeve. It shows signs of wear at the front bottom, and top rear (since with the WDH bars engaged, it's twisting in that direction). So much so that there is a groove worn right into the top of the bar at the back of my receiver.

    I have some wide, flat washers that I have been using to shim this, since I get best weight distribution when I keep the point of the stinger as low as possible. These washers wear out instead of my shank, but I'm looking for a more permanent setup.

    What's flat, thin, but hard enough not to wear? I suppose I could weld a nice bead along the rear surface, then grind it to fit into the receiver. Any other ideas?

    I'm pretty sure I'd just bend or snap off one of those anti-rattle clamp thingies once I put that much WDH load force pulling up on it.
    Short of welding it in place, the only thing to do is just accept that hitch parts wear.
    That slop is taken up when WD is engaged...All of my hitches over the last 30 years have had that play. They never wore enough to be a problem.
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
    Two bathrooms, no waiting 155 fresh, 104 black, 104 grey 1860 watts solar.
    800AH BattleBorn Batteries No campgrounds 100% boondocking
    2020 Silverado High Country 3500 dually crewcab Duramax Allison

  3. #3
    Site Team Redapple63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntindog View Post
    Short of welding it in place, the only thing to do is just accept that hitch parts wear.
    That slop is taken up when WD is engaged...All of my hitches over the last 30 years have had that play. They never wore enough to be a problem.
    Yes. When under load, it ain’t moving. I think you are fine. If it is moving while under load, it’s time for a new receiver.

    Bill
    2019 GMC 3500 SRW Sierra Denali Duramax
    2020 Reflection 315RLTS

  4. #4
    Site Sponsor
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    There are small u-bolt like clamps designed to secure the shank to remove this slop. Roadmaster Quiet Hitch clamp for one. I just replaced a factory hitch on our F150 that has towed 75% below capacity for four years over 20k tow mileage because the pin holes were wallowed out and other wear. To the tune of $1k. Installing one of these clamps hoping to at least minimize the wear and tear.

  5. #5
    Long Hauler huntindog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit View Post
    There are small u-bolt like clamps designed to secure the shank to remove this slop. Roadmaster Quiet Hitch clamp for one. I just replaced a factory hitch on our F150 that has towed 75% below capacity for four years over 20k tow mileage because the pin holes were wallowed out and other wear. To the tune of $1k. Installing one of these clamps hoping to at least minimize the wear and tear.
    Did you use a standard hitch pin that is bent on one end? That bend is known to wallow out the holes. I quit using those many years ago because ot that. I only use straight locking pins now, and when they start showing wear, I replace them, so that the slop from wear is reduced.
    2021 398M Full Body Paint 8k axles. LRH tires. Disc brakes.
    Two bathrooms, no waiting 155 fresh, 104 black, 104 grey 1860 watts solar.
    800AH BattleBorn Batteries No campgrounds 100% boondocking
    2020 Silverado High Country 3500 dually crewcab Duramax Allison

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntindog View Post
    Did you use a standard hitch pin that is bent on one end? That bend is known to wallow out the holes. I quit using those many years ago because ot that. I only use straight locking pins now, and when they start showing wear, I replace them, so that the slop from wear is reduced.
    Yes, but have switched to a straight pin. I figured out the bent end was part of the problem. It go so loose it beat a small bulge in the bottom on the receiver.

  7. #7
    Rolling Along jleonard's Avatar
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    I shimmed mine. Both the 2 inch adapter into the 2 1/2 inch receiver, and the Equalizer into the adapter.
    The adapter is very snug (aka light tap fit) and the tow bar is a little loose, but I live with that little bit of rattle.
    I've got close to 9K towing miles like this.
    Jay Leonard
    New Port Richey, Fl
    2022 Imagine 2600 RB, 2021 Ram 2500 CC Bighorn 6.7L Cummins

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