Water Heater - Electric Element Only Works When Propane Selected

**KollerKruizin906** · 09-07-2022, 07:42 AM

Greetings All,

We have a 2019 Reflection 337 RLS. I am at the very beginning stages of tracing down this issue, but thought I'd lob the quandary out to all of you as a means to maybe curtail some of the investigating (not being lazy, just an attempt at being efficient

)

Last night, I discovered a issue with the electric function of our Atwood 6 gallon water heater. When looking to see the amp draw of the electric element out of curiosity I noticed that when I flipped on the electric switch it would illuminate, but there was no amp draw from the element starting up. I turned off the switch and turned on the propane which I could here ignite and start working. Next, I flipped on the electric switch which again illuminated, but this time I could see an amp draw of 11.5 amps which to me means the element has been initiated and started working. As soon as I turn off the propane switch, the amp draw drops back to 0 for the element but the light stays illuminated. By way of some other background, I did try to replace the heating element a couple of months ago but was unable to get it to release even with the heating element tube socket used for such a purpose. The element was on their very tight and the last thing I wanted to do was force it too much and have 3 more projects now added to the list of to-do's (not to mention be without hot water). I did disconnect the element but was careful to reconnect it as I found it. I was trying to replace it because it seemed the water wasn't heating up as well with just the element and it did appear to have some calcification when flushing the tank out and using my camera scope to check out the interior of the tank. As far as accessing the back of the tank, I go through the interior hutch cabinet by removing the drawers and adjusted the 1x1 framing so as to widen the area to crawl through. This allows me closer access to a lot of fun things in the belly that I would otherwise have to try to get to by removing say the water heater or do some serious body planking, as well as bending to access plumbing, wiring, ducting, etc. I've attached some pictures that you can hopefully view.

Any feedback, comments, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

**FT4NOW** · 09-07-2022, 07:50 AM

It almost sounds like the switches arent wired correctly. By your description, it seems that the output of the propane switch is feeding the electric switch. I would start there. If that's not it, it could be miswired at the water heater itself. If that's not it, I'd investigate the circuit board.

**KollerKruizin906** · 09-07-2022, 08:24 AM

Thank you FT4now, much appreciated and that’s sort of where I was going just need to start the hunt!

**russhd1997** · 09-15-2022, 06:24 AM

Originally Posted by KollerKruizin906

Greetings All,

We have a 2019 Reflection 337 RLS. I am at the very beginning stages of tracing down this issue, but thought I'd lob the quandary out to all of you as a means to maybe curtail some of the investigating (not being lazy, just an attempt at being efficient

)

Last night, I discovered a issue with the electric function of our Atwood 6 gallon water heater. When looking to see the amp draw of the electric element out of curiosity I noticed that when I flipped on the electric switch it would illuminate, but there was no amp draw from the element starting up. I turned off the switch and turned on the propane which I could here ignite and start working. Next, I flipped on the electric switch which again illuminated, but this time I could see an amp draw of 11.5 amps which to me means the element has been initiated and started working. As soon as I turn off the propane switch, the amp draw drops back to 0 for the element but the light stays illuminated. By way of some other background, I did try to replace the heating element a couple of months ago but was unable to get it to release even with the heating element tube socket used for such a purpose. The element was on their very tight and the last thing I wanted to do was force it too much and have 3 more projects now added to the list of to-do's (not to mention be without hot water). I did disconnect the element but was careful to reconnect it as I found it. I was trying to replace it because it seemed the water wasn't heating up as well with just the element and it did appear to have some calcification when flushing the tank out and using my camera scope to check out the interior of the tank. As far as accessing the back of the tank, I go through the interior hutch cabinet by removing the drawers and adjusted the 1x1 framing so as to widen the area to crawl through. This allows me closer access to a lot of fun things in the belly that I would otherwise have to try to get to by removing say the water heater or do some serious body planking, as well as bending to access plumbing, wiring, ducting, etc. I've attached some pictures that you can hopefully view.

Any feedback, comments, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Assuming that you've had this RV since it was new, did the water heater work like it was supposed to when you first got it? If it did that would tell you that the switch is wired correctly. I don't know if the propane side of it uses the same thermostat as the electric side but if it does that can be eliminated too. I would start by ohm testing the element. It should have a resistance value if it's good and zero ohms if it's not. While you're in there with the ohm meter check the wiring to the switch to verify that that is good. If everything checks out the fault is most likely in the controller.

**KollerKruizin906** · 10-08-2022, 06:34 PM

Greetings all! It's been a while since my initial post and greatly appreciate the informative replies. Life stuff cause my delays in tackling this project and being that the water heater still worked on propane there was no immediate pressure. Today, I fixed the issue which was the relay. The replacement was a American Zettler Power Relay for the Atwood 93849 which cost $11 on Amazon. The element test out with 11 ohms, and read online that the relay could be culprit. All is heating up nicely for now and thank you again for your replies/assistance. All the best,