Converting 30 amp to 50 amp

[Butcher]

I think the labor costs are out of line. Of course, I do not know where your power cables are going and what not so maybe it is justified. My 29RS is fairly simple from the connector outside to the electrical panel.

I honestly do not think it would be that difficult. It was mentioned that you may have to change everything out. I would look at running the second power leg to a secondary electrical panel. That way, you can keep what you got.

The worst thing about the conversion would be the hassle of routing the larger diameter heavy cables.

I am not an electrician and I have no idea if you would break any codes or not. In the automotive trade, I have rewired many cars that the engineers said could not be done. None have burned down. Don't get distracted about the others who think your idea is bad. If it is sound and you think it would resolve your problem, I say go for it. If you do not get the right person, you could really cause a lot of problems during resale.

[jproctor9]

Few thoughts...

1. Upgrading to 50a would be time consuming but doable. Rob outlined it above...inlet plug, wire, distribution center, and (maybe) converter. I ran new wire from distribution center to front storage and back to distribution center for inverter install. Challenging but doable.

2. I'd consider the advice around conservation. Can you manage by flipping switches? Wouldn't think you'd need dehumidifier AND A/C at same time. Also considering adding Easy Start to A/C as that will greatly reduce start amps.

3. Could you add a 20a inlet and dedicated outlet to handle certain high draw loads...maybe put a dedicated outlet for portable kitchen appliances? This approach would require an additional cord to pedestal but may be a bit easier than rewiring main power.

Just tossing out ideas ...

[KamFlyer]

Few thoughts...

3. Could you add a 20a inlet and dedicated outlet to handle certain high draw loads...maybe put a dedicated outlet for portable kitchen appliances? This approach would require an additional cord to pedestal but may be a bit easier than rewiring main power.

Be careful with #3 . This goes against many electrical codes!

[jproctor9]

Be careful with #3 . This goes against many electrical codes!

Very curious as to what code this violates. Not asking you to quote NEC, but I am curious why this would not be acceptable.

Keep in mind that I am in no way suggesting that this be tied to the existing distribution panel. This would be a separate inlet with separate wiring and a separate outlet. It's simply a way of being able to use the 20a outlet that is available at many pedestals without running an extension cord through a window or door.

Important to recognize that if you're at 30a only site, the 20a outlet won't do you much good due to the limitations of the feed.

[KamFlyer]

Very curious as to what code this violates. Not asking you to quote NEC, but I am curious why this would not be acceptable.

NEC 551.72F states "Only 1 supply cord (30 or 50 amp) can feed an RV". This has been discussed many times on the RVElectricity FB group. An excellent group BTW. Note, I believe this only applies at campgrounds (not sure why) so if you are somewhere else, it 'may' be allowed.
I believe it has to do with grounding.

[dryfly]

NEC 551.72F states "Only 1 supply cord (30 or 50 amp) can feed an RV". This has been discussed many times on the RVElectricity FB group. An excellent group BTW. Note, I believe this only applies at campgrounds (not sure why) so if you are somewhere else, it 'may' be allowed.
I believe it has to do with grounding.

And that answers the question I asked as well.

[ravenaut]

Lot of good information and ideas from everyone.thx for that..ez start ac and watt meter are definitely on list to get..dehumidifier is just a 1 pint to help with not sweating at night and thought it might help the ac unit not work as hard..from what I have read furrion ac unit is kinda garbage..need a few things to make it run better..and well 6 months in and quit blowing cool air at 5 months and burnt the ground wire..few issues for a different thread on that..I would like to be able to run instant pot 6qt and a convection oven at same time..microwave not that big of a deal just cause I food prep every week..not time with long hrs in the job..I don't keep my water heater switch on constant just when I need it..left it on for a couple days to try it out and that's about the time my ac gave me the middle finger..coincidence maybe..lot of power outages..possible..trying to learn the best possible way to create this all from happening again and you all have given many insights to look into and I thank you all for that...been in hotels for 9 yrs for work and just got this in April and in it for the long haul so working on learning all I can about everything possible to make it better..even with all the issues wouldn't trade this home for a suite at the hilton 😂

[jproctor9]

NEC 551.72F states "Only 1 supply cord (30 or 50 amp) can feed an RV". This has been discussed many times on the RVElectricity FB group. An excellent group BTW. Note, I believe this only applies at campgrounds (not sure why) so if you are somewhere else, it 'may' be allowed.
I believe it has to do with grounding.

Just looked this up to help educate myself. Looks like this was a 2020 change. I'm not on FB so going to ask here... Has there been any discussion related to the provision for "one 15-amp or 20-amp convenience receptacle may be used in addition to the supply cord"? Presumably this is NOT to power anything inside the RV?

Also noted that NEV 551.72(E) now prohibits the use of autotransformers. States they may cause voltage drops to other RV sites.

[A.Texas.Yankee]

...Since the 50 amp supply is two 30 amp split phase lines...

Careful! This is not accurate. 50 amp service is not two 30amp split phase. It is two 50 amp lines in split phase @ 120v each leg (or should be, at least).

Might consider a Victron MultiPlus II unit depending on your battery set up. You can set the assist to give you more than the 30amp supply. Draw back would be you're using battery power for anything over 30 amps, but just food for thought IF you're not consuming a constant 30amp+ draw.

[SolarPoweredRV]

Careful! This is not accurate. 50 amp service is not two 30amp split phase. It is two 50 amp lines in split phase @ 120v each leg (or should be, at least).

Might consider a Victron MultiPlus II unit depending on your battery set up. You can set the assist to give you more than the 30amp supply. Draw back would be you're using battery power for anything over 30 amps, but just food for thought IF you're not consuming a constant 30amp+ draw.

This plan won't work because the inside breakers are also 30 amp and the Victron Inverter can't supply more than 30 amps. The Victron Inverter will give you 30 amps inside the coach if, for example:, you are connected to a 20 amp outlet and you set the Victron Inverter to "Boost" the amps between 20 amps and the max 30 amps.