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  1. #21
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by deerislandbrew View Post
    I have a 303 . The sales rep told me to burn or toss my wood leveling planks as the self leveling system took care of all that. 1st night out, we arrived at a uneven free parking lot at a casino. I pushed auto level and it went immediately out of sync, with error message. I found out real quickly that auto level only works if you FIRST level the trailer as best or close as possible before pushing the auto level button. Yes, you really need to use a level and check everything. Set wood blocks ad necessary to attempt as level a set up as possible before pushing your auto level button to finish the job. Its a nice system when you get used to it. I have had most issues with the back being to high to self level. Out of stroke will be the error message. Usually the back dosent have enough extension to self level. If that happens, manually lift the rear Jack's. Then put some 2x4 or whatever looks right to compensate for a shorter rear jack extension. Then hit auto level again. You should get a successful leveling then. Get it as close as possible, then hit auto level. That's the only way it works properly.
    Thanks. That was helpful. The dealer told me to put the front jacks all the way down to the ground before unhooking from the truck. Then use the power extender to lift from the truck. The manual said to extend them 4 to 5 inches from the ground then extend them mechanically untill they hit the ground and continue to power to lift from the truck. What do you do?
    Retired law enforcement 38 years, Bay Area in California. Retired now. Been RVing for 30 years. Have owned a variety of brands and types. Recently purchased a 2022 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS. I tow it with a 2018 Chevy Diesel.

  2. #22
    Fireside Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfowler55 View Post
    My guess is that you are manually extending the front jacks too far with the pin adjustment. When we had a Reflection with electric jacks , I dropped the inner legs 5-6 holes , then disconnected. If the auto level can’t drop the front enough to be lower than the rear , funky things happen.
    Charlie
    I have had the same experience on my 303. I do this same procedure and have had no issues.
    2018 Reflection 303RLS, PullRite 16K Superglide, 2022 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali.

  3. #23
    Left The Driveway
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    Quote Originally Posted by BossmanL56 View Post
    I am new to my 303RLS. I just tried the auto leveling system and it lifted the rear wheels off the ground about an inch. I quickly put it down and manually lowered the rear stabilizers. It was parked on a concrete RV pad that slightly sloped to the rear for rain run off but nothing out of the ordinary. Visually you can't even tell it slopes. So I placed the front jacks down about 4"- 5" from the floor when removing it from the truck. After removal from the truck the front was slightly raised when I started the auto leveling. What did I do wrong and has anyone experienced that before?
    Good suggestions from others. My dealer showed me how to use the system on my 303rls in about 30 seconds which didn’t even scratch the surface. Especially for me moving from a bumper pull. I’ve had a lot of trial and error. The most helpful thing for me is I bought 2 stick on bubble levels and put them close to the control panel. They aren’t very accurate but it helps you quickly check if the pad is sloped, then you can break out the blocks if you need them. You don’t have to get it exact with the blocks, just compensate for an extremely sloped site.
    William
    2021 Ford F350 SRW SB - B&W Companion
    2022 303RLS

  4. #24
    Setting Up Camp
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfowler55 View Post
    My guess is that you are manually extending the front jacks too far with the pin adjustment. When we had a Reflection with electric jacks , I dropped the inner legs 5-6 holes , then disconnected. If the auto level can’t drop the front enough to be lower than the rear , funky things happen.
    Charlie
    Let me clarify just a bit. I've had the 303RLS for several weeks. I haven't taken it on a trip just yet. First thing I did was drive it home and remove it from the truck placing it on my concrete RV pad. There is a very slight angle for rain runoff so it's pretty level but not exact. Probably only several inches front to rear at most, maybe less. Side to side it's perfectly level. Anyway, the book said to manually extend the front jacks with the pins 4-5 inches from the ground then activate the motor to lift the trailer from the truck. Once off press the auto level button. I did that and that's when the rear wheels were lifted off the ground. This freaked me out so I manually lowered the rears and made an appointment with the dealer for them to check it out. I didn't mess with it again until I dropped it off at the service center yesterday. I explained what happened to the service writer and he said the reason that happened was because I didn't extend the front pin jacks all the way to the ground then lift the trailer off the truck. And he said it doesn't hurt anything for the system to lift the wheels but it shouldn't happen when leveling. So we performed the procedure for the service writer. We did what he suggested, lowering the front jacks to the ground then lifting the trailer from the truck. Well, it lifted the wheels off the ground for him. And the little light on the control panel blinked red rather than green. So the service writer said something is wrong and they will check it out, possibly having to recalibrate the system. I left it with him.
    So I'm a little confused now. It sounds like several of you say to lower the front jacks as the manual suggests rather than place them all the way to the ground. Then power off the truck. Does anyone have success lowering the fronts all the way to the ground like the service writer suggests?
    Retired law enforcement 38 years, Bay Area in California. Retired now. Been RVing for 30 years. Have owned a variety of brands and types. Recently purchased a 2022 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS. I tow it with a 2018 Chevy Diesel.

  5. #25
    Site Sponsor Steven@147's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BossmanL56 View Post
    Let me clarify just a bit. I've had the 303RLS for several weeks. I haven't taken it on a trip just yet. First thing I did was drive it home and remove it from the truck placing it on my concrete RV pad. There is a very slight angle for rain runoff so it's pretty level but not exact. Probably only several inches front to rear at most, maybe less. Side to side it's perfectly level. Anyway, the book said to manually extend the front jacks with the pins 4-5 inches from the ground then activate the motor to lift the trailer from the truck. Once off press the auto level button. I did that and that's when the rear wheels were lifted off the ground. This freaked me out so I manually lowered the rears and made an appointment with the dealer for them to check it out. I didn't mess with it again until I dropped it off at the service center yesterday. I explained what happened to the service writer and he said the reason that happened was because I didn't extend the front pin jacks all the way to the ground then lift the trailer off the truck. And he said it doesn't hurt anything for the system to lift the wheels but it shouldn't happen when leveling. So we performed the procedure for the service writer. We did what he suggested, lowering the front jacks to the ground then lifting the trailer from the truck. Well, it lifted the wheels off the ground for him. And the little light on the control panel blinked red rather than green. So the service writer said something is wrong and they will check it out, possibly having to recalibrate the system. I left it with him.
    So I'm a little confused now. It sounds like several of you say to lower the front jacks as the manual suggests rather than place them all the way to the ground. Then power off the truck. Does anyone have success lowering the fronts all the way to the ground like the service writer suggests?
    My reply is the Service Writer is just wrong and so is the owners manual. By doing it his way or the owners manual way, after you have pulled the pin levers and hand lowered the landing gear pads all the way to the ground, then you use the controller to extend the front landing gear to get the trailer off the truck hitch, then pull the truck away, the landing gear with the controller has not extended far enough that when auto leveling the landing gear will not retract enough before reaching their lower limit and stopping, now the only way for the system to level front to back is to raise the rear up way to high, thus lifting the wheels off the ground.

    IMO What you should do is this. Once you are in the site, check the level side to side, if within a half a bubble of level or so (use a hand level on the coach floor), Now on the front landing gear, pull the pin latches and drop the inner landing gear legs at the maximum of 4 holes or less, now using the controller extend the front landing gear pads almost to the ground or to the top of blocks or buckets whatever you want to use. Now check to make sure both front landing gear pads are the same distance to the ground, or bucket or blocks, if they are not use another piece of wood under one of them to get them even to the ground or pull the hand latch on one of the pads and raise or lower a hole to get them even

    Now continue to use the controller to further extend the front landing gear until the RV pin plate just lifts off the hitch, with the RV wheels chocked, open the hitch jaws, unplug the 5er cord and pull the truck away.

    Now the motorized inner front landing gear is probably extended about half way or less through their travel, now when you auto level, the front landing gear can retract by the controller and lower the nose far enough to get the RV level front to rear without running the landing gear all the way to their lowered stops. The controller should stop the front lowering motion before the front landing gear gets to their full up mechanical stops. Now when the controller lowers the rear jacks to the ground or buckets or blocks it should not raise the wheels off the ground. Only now when the RV is level with the front and rear jacks down, does the controller lower the mid jacks to stabilize.

    To go further, what we have found, on the rear and mid jacks you only want them to extend mid way or less through their travel so use blocks or buckets or whatever under the pads, the more you extended these jacks the more flex on the jack frame you'll get where their bolted to the RV frame extensions and the more wiggle you'll get in the coach when walking across the floor.
    Last edited by Steven@147; 09-22-2022 at 11:03 AM.
    Steve & Tami Cass - Escapee's, FMCA Members, Texas Fulltimers Since July 2020
    2019 Solitude 3350RL S-Class, 2018 Ram 3500 DRW, Laramie Longhorn, B&W Companion, Texas Class A Non-CDL Drivers License
    Sharing the Fulltime Lifestyle - www.youtube.com/@tsrvadventures3219/videos, Nonprofit Channel

  6. #26
    Big Traveler Keebler's Avatar
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    This is making me really appreciate the hydraulic system! My head hurts.
    2017 Ford F350 Platinum 6.7L PowerStroke DRW
    2017 Solitude 379FLS

  7. #27
    Long Hauler
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    Jul 2021
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    No kidding, raise it off the truck, then hit Autolevel. Couldn't be easier. I honestly thought I wouldn't care about the autolevel, but I find I really do like it.
    Howard and Peggy
    2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
    His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S

  8. #28
    Left The Driveway
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    Quote Originally Posted by BossmanL56 View Post
    Let me clarify just a bit. I've had the 303RLS for several weeks. I haven't taken it on a trip just yet. First thing I did was drive it home and remove it from the truck placing it on my concrete RV pad. There is a very slight angle for rain runoff so it's pretty level but not exact. Probably only several inches front to rear at most, maybe less. Side to side it's perfectly level. Anyway, the book said to manually extend the front jacks with the pins 4-5 inches from the ground then activate the motor to lift the trailer from the truck. Once off press the auto level button. I did that and that's when the rear wheels were lifted off the ground. This freaked me out so I manually lowered the rears and made an appointment with the dealer for them to check it out. I didn't mess with it again until I dropped it off at the service center yesterday. I explained what happened to the service writer and he said the reason that happened was because I didn't extend the front pin jacks all the way to the ground then lift the trailer off the truck. And he said it doesn't hurt anything for the system to lift the wheels but it shouldn't happen when leveling. So we performed the procedure for the service writer. We did what he suggested, lowering the front jacks to the ground then lifting the trailer from the truck. Well, it lifted the wheels off the ground for him. And the little light on the control panel blinked red rather than green. So the service writer said something is wrong and they will check it out, possibly having to recalibrate the system. I left it with him.
    So I'm a little confused now. It sounds like several of you say to lower the front jacks as the manual suggests rather than place them all the way to the ground. Then power off the truck. Does anyone have success lowering the fronts all the way to the ground like the service writer suggests?
    Hey, @BossmanL56 First off what system of Leveling does the rig have? Mine is the Lippert ground control 3.0 system. I've been out traveling for two summers now, and have learned little things that help with leveling problems. Read the Lippert Master Owner manual and pay close attention to the Manual override section and the Special jack error codes section and the Zero point Calibration section. Those sections explain what tools are needed and how; where and what to manually extend and /or retract the landing and leveling jacks to "home the jacks". Good stuff to know where to find when needed. My experiences this spring on our East Coast Trip was an error code of either LF Jack, RF Jack during the unhitching of the truck. This created a big problem because I had already released the hitch clamp, Right landing gear will not come down. So I have to re home the front jacks by manually extending the right front down at least 6" and retracting using the control panel. resets the jacks. I had it happen three consecutive setups. The only thing that I could figure out was, that when unhitching from the truck: 1 only pull the release when both front jacks start moving and get close to the grounding pads. 2 if on the control panel if it reads more than 1.5 degrees +/- out of level side to side, you will need to level up/chock the tires on the low side or tires will come off the ground. and 3 if the front of the rig is lower than the rear of the rig after moving the truck out but before you push auto level, Lower the landing gear so that the front indicator light is blinking on the control panel. This will make sure that the Hitch Recognition feature will function when hooking back up. And lastly I use a 1" rubber pad and a plastic landing pads with a combination of wooden 2x10 pads. On the Front landing gear rubber pad on the ground w/ 4- 2x10 wooden pads then the plastic pad, drop the inner no more than 6 holes and the drop the landing gear to remove the truck. For the back leveling jacks , again rubber pad the 1-2x10 wooden and plastic on top.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Jbandtbone; 09-22-2022 at 01:01 PM.

  9. #29
    Rolling Along cfowler55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keebler View Post
    This is making me really appreciate the hydraulic system! My head hurts.
    I’ve had both systems , elec. on a Reflection 5th wheel and hydraulic on the current Solitude. Honestly , they both have similar issues. I first check side to side with the control panel and will block up the low wheels if too far off. The main issue is not allowing for enough drop in the front during the first auto level sequence. I always start with the front at least a few degrees high. Sometimes this requires raising the front more after the truck is moved. Doing this I rarely have an error.
    Charlie
    Vickie & Charlie
    2019 310GK-R
    2020 RAM Longhorn DRW Cummins /Aisin

  10. #30
    Paid my dues 😁 FT4NOW's Avatar
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    I've had both and hands down prefer the hydraulic. Going from hydraulic to electric seemed like a step back in time.

    With the electric, I used the Anderson buckets (attaches to jack by magnet) and would lower the front jacks until there was maybe a few inches of clearance between the ground and bucket. Then I would lower the rest in electric mode to disconnect from the truck, after that, hit auto level, seemed to work well that way.
    2023 Momentum 398M-R
    2023 Ford F-450

    SOLD - 2021 Reflection 311BHS
    SOLD - 2017 Momentum 399TH

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