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  1. #21
    Long Hauler
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Location
    Platte City, MO
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    Quote Originally Posted by KCopley95 View Post
    Ok - so what youre saying is... If the battery switch is ON all the time then my fridge should be running all the time?
    Well, maybe not all the time, but whenever necessary for sure. It should operate like a conventional compressor fridge, i.e. run when above a set temperature.
    Howard and Peggy
    2019 Momentum 351M, and 2018 RAM Cummins dually 6-speed.
    His: 1999 Honda Interceptor
    Hers: 2013 Spyder ST-S

  2. #22
    Fireside Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Fort Myers
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    Fresh bag of popcorn done this is good

  3. #23
    Setting Up Camp
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
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    Hello, I do not have a new model, nor do I have solar, but we recently, and I posted the problem, with a helium fridge/freezer!
    Absolutely the worst piece of junk ever invented! Would not work! Lost a fridge full of all kinds of food, which caused major odours in the fridge freezer!

    Lo and behold the only solution was to buy a new fridge/freezer! Bought a Dometic, absolutely fantastic fridge freezer.

    I think they even bought out the previous model company with the helium. Where I bought the fridge freezer, he asked about hooking it up to battery, as that would be an option.

    My take on it is And his opinion was valued. If you’re using shore power, why do you need the battery, unless you are off the grid a lot.

    We went with shore power, which is basically the main power source and the back up is propane!

    Do you have a propane back up to your fridge freezer it looks like it won’t be very long and you are going to have a major problem
    Again I don’t know anything about the solar hook ups, set ups on the new models as I have a 2014 reflection.

    Wishing you all the best! Go with the propane! We are supporters of the oil and gas industry!

    My sympathies to those who are going to rely on the future on electric vehicles! Hate to tell you this, as you probably are already aware, if it weren’t for the oil and gas industry, all of the mining with heavy duty diesel powered equipment, you would not be having Your so-called wonderful electric vehicles! Go oilers go!

    How many of the members on this forum are using an electric powered truck to pull their RV? I don’t think there are very many! Fords recall of their electric 150s is a prime example, and the poor sucker who bought them, now is faced with a huge bill for the upgrade, which she has no choice but to pay, or turn back the vehicle, lucky Ford electric vehicle owner!

    All the best! Just had to rant for a bit! Dennis

  4. #24
    Site Sponsor leselmore's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Location
    Vail AZ
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    Being as the original post was 4 days ago and I didn't pick up on any resolution of the issue, here are my thoughts. I do not know the RV specific configuration but I am picking up that it has a 12 volt only refrigerator and there is some solar installed. The only thing I can think of that has not been mentioned by previous posts is the converter is not charging the battery or supplying 12v DC power to the DC side of the main power distribution panel. Because the fridge is working during the day, I agree that the solar COULD be charging the battery and providing power to run the fridge but it is not enough to run it all night.

    In case you don't know, the converter takes the 120v AC shore power and converts it to 12v DC. While connected to shore power the converter will charge the battery as needed both day and night. Also, the converter is most likely wired to the 12 volt DC side of the power distribution panel so in addition to charging the battery it will power all 12 volt lights and appliances from shore power. If you have not found the issue, consider the converter. There is most likely a converter circuit breaker marked and labeled in the RV's main power distribution panel as well as reverse polarity fuses located directly on the converter. These reverse polarity fuses protect the converter in case the battery cables are accidentally connected in reverse. I would start troubleshooting it by flipping the converter's circuit breaker (in the RV main distribution panel} to the off position and then back on again. If flipping the breaker fixes the issue, you may hear the converter start running (or humming) pretty quickly afterwards. If not, find the converter and find an owner's manual for your specific model. In it lookup troubleshooting steps.

    Here are some general idea's what to look for without a manual. Keep in mind every converter manufacturer's models can vary. After finding the converter see if it has a green light (may blink green every 5-10 seconds). That would indicate it is working properly. If it is an amber light, it may be working on battery power and not getting shore power. Red would most likely be some type of internal fault. If needed, next I would TURN OFF ALL POWER. That includes shore power and pull out the battery disconnect switch all the way to turn off battery power then check the converter's reverse polarity fuses which are located on the converter. My old WFCO converter had two but yours may have less or more of these fuses. Good Luck and Hope this helps. Just be safe and if not comfortable around electricity, leave it to someone who is. Also, the Facebook group "RV Electricity" is a great resource and has many electrical experts willing to help. If you do not have one already, be sure to get a multimeter to keep with you for troubleshooting electrical issues on the road.
    Last edited by leselmore; 09-21-2022 at 11:05 PM.
    Les & Nel
    2019 Reflection 315 RLTS w/Dual Pane Windows; 2nd AC
    -- 7K Axles; 3500 lb Springs; MORRyde SRE-4000; Roadmaster Comfort Ride Shocks
    -- 400 Ah BB Lithium; 1590 watts solar; MultiPlus-II Inverter; Renogy 40A DC DC Charger

    2016 RAM 2500 CC SB 4x4 Diesel
    -- Blue Ox SwayPro 20k/2k hitch; Timbren Rear Bump Stops


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