WFCO converter conversion to 8735-AD

[DanCelestina]

Have the 8735AD - Drain the batteries twice now and have had no luck. I was told by WFCO the batteries need to be within 10 feet of the converter. On my 23LDE the converter is all the way in the back of the RV while the batteries (and the stock wiring) are up in the front of the RV. Im ready to change the converter all together or possibly getting a battery charger specifically for lithium.

[FT4NOW]

Have the 8735AD - Drain the batteries twice now and have had no luck. I was told by WFCO the batteries need to be within 10 feet of the converter. On my 23LDE the converter is all the way in the back of the RV while the batteries (and the stock wiring) are up in the front of the RV. Im ready to change the converter all together or possibly getting a battery charger specifically for lithium.

Is it drained when you're using the camper, or while in storage?

[FL-Guy]

I have a 2023 17MKE with the WF 8735 AD GE converter. I just purchased a 200aH lithium battery (not installed yet)
I understand I will have to drain the battery and recharge it with the converter in order to get it into lithium mode.
I plan to totally disconnect my battery when the camper is in storage. Does anyone know if I'll have to do the "training" procedure to get the converter auto detect into lithium mode every time I reconnect the battery?
Thanks

[BobinICT]

I have a 2023 17MKE with the WF 8735 AD GE converter. I just purchased a 200aH lithium battery (not installed yet)
I understand I will have to drain the battery and recharge it with the converter in order to get it into lithium mode.
I plan to totally disconnect my battery when the camper is in storage. Does anyone know if I'll have to do the "training" procedure to get the converter auto detect into lithium mode every time I reconnect the battery?
Thanks

I didn't have to. Mine went blue lite from the get go. I would say try it first and see. You can always knock the battery down later and do the training method.

[DanCelestina]

Is it drained when you're using the camper, or while in storage?

Both minimally using the camper and while traveling. WFCO said I might need turn off EVERYTHING for it to work including unplugging the solar panel.

However I am now in the middle of traveling and cannot do that. Still pondering the idea of getting a new converter due to the fact that I hear it bounces out of lithium mode randomly and I cannot go through the lengthy process again.

[sutrick2001]

Just thought I would add my 2 cents and maybe get some opinions. Have a 2022 23BHE with the WFCO-8735-AD. Just installed a 200ah Lithium, drained it down to 2% plugged it in light was still green, I waited for the red light to come on showing bulk charging, unplugged shore power and plugged back in. Light turned blue, red light stayed on. Was charging at 30 amps and I thought all was good, took batteries to ta full charge.

Was curious to see how everything would charge on the generator, took battery down to 60% by running 12v fridge, max air fan, and left interior lights on over night to simulate a day of use, with no solar (only have the single 165watt panel). Started generator and plugged into shore power, blue light was on, no red light, only charged at about 6 amps. I ran it for about an hour and only picked up about 8 amps. Plugged back into shore power via outlet and only got about 7 amps. Charged this way for about 2 hours then dropped to less than 1 amp and battery was only charged to 75% (150 amps) Tried turning everything off (solar panels, battery, shore power) turned everything back on, green light, charging at 6 amps. I know this is a reoccurring issue but I'm a little frustrated.

Installed a Go Power 30 Amp transfer switch, renogy 2000 w inverter, 40 amp dc/dc charger, Renogy battery shunt, and everything works great, except the 1 stupid piece of equipment that came with the trailer...(rant over).

These are the 3 options I am looking at from easier to harder

1) purchase a victron IP22, put it in the pass through. Leave the stock convertor connected and just plug the IP22 into the generator and charge at 30 amps of the generator. Cost about $250. Figure 2 hours of genny time would replace about 60 amps.

2) Purchase a Powermax 55Amp PM3-55LK. Either put it in the pass through like the IP22 or disconnect the stock convertor and wire this in behind the electrical panel. Cost about $250 and more time, but would be an easier set up when camping.

3) Purchase a Renogy 3000w invertor/charger. Rip out everything I've put in and go the direction I should have from the get go... Cost $800-900 depending on wires and such. Last time I will need to upgrade anything (yeah right).

After writing this out, I am leaning toward option 1 and just be done.

[Dale B]

I have the POS AD converter & posted much of my frustration last season

Plugged the rig in for the first time this season after getting a few items sorted from last season. This was after a 3.5 road trip including a ferry crossing so the other POS Norcold fridge was switched to 120v & the WEFCO inverter chewed on the batteries.

There are two 200ah Lithium batteries, I did not check the SOC when I plugged into shore power. The draw was approx. 50ah for 2 hours, the discharge was near equal as they are individual bluetooth.

Happy to report the POS AD converter supplied near full power to the batteries, I did not check to see if the light was Blue. Was concerned regarding that as the batteries were disconnected all winter. it's in a Impossible location to see without removing panels & crawling inside. Another grip about the POS converter, no remote control or Bluetooth capability.....did I mention it is a POS

[Soundsailor]

did I mention it is a POS

Pretty sure you got that covered

[Dale B]

Pretty sure you got that covered

Yeah I'm annoying when I'm annoyed Ha! It's awesome to be rig again, first overnight of the season

[COGrandDes]

Just thought I would add my 2 cents and maybe get some opinions. Have a 2022 23BHE with the WFCO-8735-AD. Just installed a 200ah Lithium, drained it down to 2% plugged it in light was still green, I waited for the red light to come on showing bulk charging, unplugged shore power and plugged back in. Light turned blue, red light stayed on. Was charging at 30 amps and I thought all was good, took batteries to ta full charge.

Was curious to see how everything would charge on the generator, took battery down to 60% by running 12v fridge, max air fan, and left interior lights on over night to simulate a day of use, with no solar (only have the single 165watt panel). Started generator and plugged into shore power, blue light was on, no red light, only charged at about 6 amps. I ran it for about an hour and only picked up about 8 amps. Plugged back into shore power via outlet and only got about 7 amps. Charged this way for about 2 hours then dropped to less than 1 amp and battery was only charged to 75% (150 amps) Tried turning everything off (solar panels, battery, shore power) turned everything back on, green light, charging at 6 amps. I know this is a reoccurring issue but I'm a little frustrated.

Installed a Go Power 30 Amp transfer switch, renogy 2000 w inverter, 40 amp dc/dc charger, Renogy battery shunt, and everything works great, except the 1 stupid piece of equipment that came with the trailer...(rant over).

These are the 3 options I am looking at from easier to harder

1) purchase a victron IP22, put it in the pass through. Leave the stock convertor connected and just plug the IP22 into the generator and charge at 30 amps of the generator. Cost about $250. Figure 2 hours of genny time would replace about 60 amps.

2) Purchase a Powermax 55Amp PM3-55LK. Either put it in the pass through like the IP22 or disconnect the stock convertor and wire this in behind the electrical panel. Cost about $250 and more time, but would be an easier set up when camping.

3) Purchase a Renogy 3000w invertor/charger. Rip out everything I've put in and go the direction I should have from the get go... Cost $800-900 depending on wires and such. Last time I will need to upgrade anything (yeah right).

After writing this out, I am leaning toward option 1 and just be done.

I vote for the Powermax. I removed my OEM model and replaced mine with the 120A Lithium version for my 560 aH LiPO4 battery pack. There is no dance involved or funny business. It gets busy when the shore power is active or the generator is plugged in. I don't have to drain the batteries to a certain amount nor do anything else to get it to charge. It just works. I moved it to my front compartment so my battery leads are short and I have it on a bypass switch in case I want to isolate it from the system.