Chevy 2500 HD, hitch advice request

[AllenV]

Well, I have gone off the deep end on this, but I think the results will interest at least some folks.

I was puzzled by the fact that the old Ford with the Husky slider would just BARELY allow the tailgate to drop when hitched and in the forward “drive” position. Yet I see plenty of images with fixed hitches and easily used tailgates. The solution was to measure where the RV dealer located the hitch when they installed it. I went out and measured that it is 3.5” IN FRONT of the axle.

Thus I was curious as to how a properly located hitch would locate the truck relative to the trailer. Then it snowballed into a measurement of cab interference with some different hitches.

First, where are the OEM puck mounts relative to the axle? The best info I found is that the socket for the gooseball is 2” behind the axle on the standard (short) bed GM. Then a tape measure tells me the rear 5th wheel pucks are 4.75” behind the gooseball. The front rear spacing of the pucks is 13”.

Now, the B&W fixed OEM hitch places the kingpin either 2” behind the axle or right on top of it. (Per B&W website.). Buried in all this arithmetic is the fact that the B&W hitch puts the kingpin 1.75” aft of the puck centerline, or 0.25” in front of it.

I marked the truck bed with tape. I put a plumb-bob on the RV king pin and set the truck in place (without a hitch) to have a look at the positioning. Images below show this. Note, the tapes are at the puck locations, halfway between the pucks, and 3” aft of the puck centerline. With kingpin about 2.5-ish inches behind the centerline, I dropped the tailgate and measured 10” of clearance to the front storage door of the RV. Happy days! That seems normal.

Now, to check cab interference at a 90 degree turn angle. Compare half the width of the trailer to the distance from the kingpin center to the back of the cab. The 303RLS is 97” wide. Half of 97 is 48.5”

Tape measuring from the tape on the bed, and correcting for the actual placement of the kingpin 1.75" aft of the centerline, tells me that the B&W hitch with the kingpin located to the rearmost location puts the kingpin 46.25 inches from the rear window. Thus the RV and the window OVERLAP by 2.25 inches when turned 90 degrees.

What about other hitches?

The Anderson Ultimate (steel version for rail mount) locates the hitch center 5” aft of the puck centerline. Doing the math for this shows that the Andersen hitch moves the RV back enough that the RV CLEARS the cab window by 1” when turned 90 degrees.

The PullRite SuperLite locates the hitch center AT the puck centerline. Doing the math for this shows that the SuperLite hitch moves the RV forward enough that the RV OVERLAPS the cab window by 4” when turned 90 degrees

Here are the images. Sorry, they are out of order. Pay no attention to ride heights. The RV is on its legs and the truck is unloaded.

[Trailmaster]

I would second the recommendation of the Reece Goosebox. Two shocks and a built in airbag makes for a great ride with minimal chucking. When you unhook you have a clean bed with no heavy hitch in the way.

As far as the hitch location in your truck, I've read that the 2020 and later Chevy HDs moved the OEM mounts rearward, minimizing or eliminating the need for a slider hitch. Chevy experts may be able to confirm.

[FT4NOW]

Based on your measurements, you cant do a 90° turn, but in all reality, when do you really NEED to do a turn at such an extreme angle? As long as you keep an eye on truck to trailer clearance on sharp turns and when backing, it should be ok.

I would hope others with short beds and fixed mounted hitches chime in. I do know there have been plenty of people on this forum who say they have a short bed and fixed hitch who dont have problems, but on the other hand there are those with busted rear windows.

[WhittleBurner]

Some windows get broken in a tight turn on unlevel ground. That's why you should always watch when making a tight turn. Level ground it might be fine but when on unlevel ground it could hit.

[AllenV]

Great input, here's where I am at so far.

My top-ranked solution is to install a B&W Companion OEM fifth-wheel hitch (RVK3710). This is a fixed hitch. We like retaining the fifth-wheel configuration for ease of hook/unhook. Users report minimal, if any, noise or chucking. It is lightweight and easily removed to clear the bed when not in use. The head weighs 75 lbs and the base weighs about 90 lbs, total about 165 lbs.. These numbers are manageable on my own without a hoist. A number of you have reported successful towing in a GM standard (short) bed with out a slider so long as one stays aware to avoid too-high angles. However, I like to plan for failure. In this case, if I am unhappy with the possible turning angles with the B&W fixed hitch, I will then install a Reese Sidewinder.

The Anderson is a contender. The one advantage is the pivot point is 3" further back compared to the B&W. The weight is similar given that my truck would need an 80 lb adapter plate to industry standard rails. (Total of about 145 lbs, hitch + kingpin adapter + rail adapter). This no-doubt offers the greatest turn clearance of the fixed hitches but no assurance that it will be enough, and hitch/unhitch to a ball is less desirable.

The Reese Goosebox looks to be nice hitch. However, it does not offer any contingency if I am unhappy with maximum turning angles. The goose box would need to be removed and replaced with some other solution. Also, it is a ball-type hitch mounted down low in the bed where visibility during hook/unhook can be a problem. This in spite of the fancy bed-view camera.

Have not bought anything, yet.

[StonewallJ]

Well, I have gone off the deep end on this, but I think the results will interest at least some folks.

I was puzzled by the fact that the old Ford with the Husky slider would just BARELY allow the tailgate to drop when hitched and in the forward “drive” position. Yet I see plenty of images with fixed hitches and easily used tailgates. The solution was to measure where the RV dealer located the hitch when they installed it. I went out and measured that it is 3.5” IN FRONT of the axle.

Thus I was curious as to how a properly located hitch would locate the truck relative to the trailer. Then it snowballed into a measurement of cab interference with some different hitches.

First, where are the OEM puck mounts relative to the axle? The best info I found is that the socket for the gooseball is 2” behind the axle on the standard (short) bed GM. Then a tape measure tells me the rear 5th wheel pucks are 4.75” behind the gooseball. The front rear spacing of the pucks is 13”.

Now, the B&W fixed OEM hitch places the kingpin either 2” behind the axle or right on top of it. (Per B&W website.). Buried in all this arithmetic is the fact that the B&W hitch puts the kingpin 1.75” aft of the puck centerline, or 0.25” in front of it.

I marked the truck bed with tape. I put a plumb-bob on the RV king pin and set the truck in place (without a hitch) to have a look at the positioning. Images below show this. Note, the tapes are at the puck locations, halfway between the pucks, and 3” aft of the puck centerline. With kingpin about 2.5-ish inches behind the centerline, I dropped the tailgate and measured 10” of clearance to the front storage door of the RV. Happy days! That seems normal.

Now, to check cab interference at a 90 degree turn angle. Compare half the width of the trailer to the distance from the kingpin center to the back of the cab. The 303RLS is 97” wide. Half of 97 is 48.5”

Tape measuring from the tape on the bed, and correcting for the actual placement of the kingpin 1.75" aft of the centerline, tells me that the B&W hitch with the kingpin located to the rearmost location puts the kingpin 46.25 inches from the rear window. Thus the RV and the window OVERLAP by 2.25 inches when turned 90 degrees.

What about other hitches?

The Anderson Ultimate (steel version for rail mount) locates the hitch center 5” aft of the puck centerline. Doing the math for this shows that the Andersen hitch moves the RV back enough that the RV CLEARS the cab window by 1” when turned 90 degrees.

The PullRite SuperLite locates the hitch center AT the puck centerline. Doing the math for this shows that the SuperLite hitch moves the RV forward enough that the RV OVERLAPS the cab window by 4” when turned 90 degrees

Here are the images. Sorry, they are out of order. Pay no attention to ride heights. The RV is on its legs and the truck is unloaded.

I use that fixed Companion hitch, and it’s true it does get pretty close, but I’ve never had to go to 90 degrees. Pretty close, but so far no broken glass. I just keep an eye on it when making the turn.

[AllenV]

I use that fixed Companion hitch, and it’s true it does get pretty close, but I’ve never had to go to 90 degrees. Pretty close, but so far no broken glass. I just keep an eye on it when making the turn.

Thank you for letting me know the Companion is working for you. You have the identical bed and hitch geometry as I.

[FT4NOW]

@AllenV I'm confused on your comment about the Andersen needing an 80lb adapter plate. If you are referring to the Andersen Ultimate Hitch, it connects to the truck via goose ball. You already have the 5th wheel prep, which includes a goose ball connection, you would only need the ball, no rails, unless I'm missing something.

[AllenV]

@AllenV I'm confused on your comment about the Andersen needing an 80lb adapter plate. If you are referring to the Andersen Ultimate Hitch, it connects to the truck via goose ball. You already have the 5th wheel prep, which includes a goose ball connection, you would only need the ball, no rails, unless I'm missing something.

It is ,perhaps, a subtle point. My GM owners manual instructs that no hitch should be used which puts weight directly on the bed of the truck. The Andersen Ultimate with gooseball attachment does exactly that. Significant load is borne by the outer square of braces. The steel version of Anderson puts all load onto an industry standard rail. I am suggesting that an ISR-to-bed-puck adapter should be used carry the loads from the Andersen ISR mounts down to the frame of the truck.

[AllenV]

@AllenV I'm confused on your comment about the Andersen needing an 80lb adapter plate. If you are referring to the Andersen Ultimate Hitch, it connects to the truck via goose ball. You already have the 5th wheel prep, which includes a goose ball connection, you would only need the ball, no rails, unless I'm missing something.

(Continued from previous post)

Page 275 of your Silverado Owners Manual
“Attach the hitch to the tow vehicle frame rails. Do not use the pickup box for support”