Chevy 2500 HD, hitch advice request

[FT4NOW]

(Continued from previous post)

Page 275 of your Silverado Owners Manual
“Attach the hitch to the tow vehicle frame rails. Do not use the pickup box for support”

Interesting, thanks for the info; either no one else has read that part, or you are the first to post about it on this forum.

We just took delivery of our truck last week, havent had a chance to look over the entire manual yet, but either way we are going with the Companion using the puck system, so no problem with the bed support.

[AllenV]

@FT4NOW

Nice looking truck you have there. I have also only had my truck for 1 week. Thus I am still learning the ins and outs. I was a bit surprised by the caution about loading the bed. Then somewhere else ( can't recall where ) I saw some mention about avoiding/preventing deformation of the bed floor. If you allow me to speculate, it seems that putting a potentially large dynamic load in exactly the same place for a long time might lead to some long-term bending of the bed floor as the load may not be directly over a point where the bed is firmly supported by the frame. I'll point out that the Andersen hitch and other like it, such as the B&W Patriot single-point, only push down on the bed where the outer frame is supported by it. All lateral and upward loads are taken by the goose ball socket. Even the extent of downward load on the bed floor will be limited as eventually the bed will ( we hope elastically ) deflect such that any further load will be taken up by the goose ball socket. I have no way of knowing if the text in the manual is anything more than an abundance of caution on the part of the manufacturer.

It is a moot point for both of us as we have very nice puck-mounted options.

[Dutchman2]

Great input, here's where I am at so far.

My top-ranked solution is to install a B&W Companion OEM fifth-wheel hitch (RVK3710). This is a fixed hitch. We like retaining the fifth-wheel configuration for ease of hook/unhook. Users report minimal, if any, noise or chucking. It is lightweight and easily removed to clear the bed when not in use. The head weighs 75 lbs and the base weighs about 90 lbs, total about 165 lbs.. These numbers are manageable on my own without a hoist. A number of you have reported successful towing in a GM standard (short) bed with out a slider so long as one stays aware to avoid too-high angles. However, I like to plan for failure. In this case, if I am unhappy with the possible turning angles with the B&W fixed hitch, I will then install a Reese Sidewinder.

The Anderson is a contender. The one advantage is the pivot point is 3" further back compared to the B&W. The weight is similar given that my truck would need an 80 lb adapter plate to industry standard rails. (Total of about 145 lbs, hitch + kingpin adapter + rail adapter). This no-doubt offers the greatest turn clearance of the fixed hitches but no assurance that it will be enough, and hitch/unhitch to a ball is less desirable.

The Reese Goosebox looks to be nice hitch. However, it does not offer any contingency if I am unhappy with maximum turning angles. The goose box would need to be removed and replaced with some other solution. Also, it is a ball-type hitch mounted down low in the bed where visibility during hook/unhook can be a problem. This in spite of the fancy bed-view camera.

Have not bought anything, yet.

We use a fixed companion. and added a Morryde pin box. We did add Tembrins for added TV stability. Very happy with ride quality. I did add a hoist in the garage just to make it easier to remove hitch as a full assemble vs. breaking it down to remove. Good back up angle and 7" of bed clearance. No regrets.

Dutchman2

[Malco1]

Well, I have gone off the deep end on this, but I think the results will interest at least some folks.

I was puzzled by the fact that the old Ford with the Husky slider would just BARELY allow the tailgate to drop when hitched and in the forward “drive” position. Yet I see plenty of images with fixed hitches and easily used tailgates. The solution was to measure where the RV dealer located the hitch when they installed it. I went out and measured that it is 3.5” IN FRONT of the axle.

Thus I was curious as to how a properly located hitch would locate the truck relative to the trailer. Then it snowballed into a measurement of cab interference with some different hitches.

First, where are the OEM puck mounts relative to the axle? The best info I found is that the socket for the gooseball is 2” behind the axle on the standard (short) bed GM. Then a tape measure tells me the rear 5th wheel pucks are 4.75” behind the gooseball. The front rear spacing of the pucks is 13”.

Now, the B&W fixed OEM hitch places the kingpin either 2” behind the axle or right on top of it. (Per B&W website.). Buried in all this arithmetic is the fact that the B&W hitch puts the kingpin 1.75” aft of the puck centerline, or 0.25” in front of it.

I marked the truck bed with tape. I put a plumb-bob on the RV king pin and set the truck in place (without a hitch) to have a look at the positioning. Images below show this. Note, the tapes are at the puck locations, halfway between the pucks, and 3” aft of the puck centerline. With kingpin about 2.5-ish inches behind the centerline, I dropped the tailgate and measured 10” of clearance to the front storage door of the RV. Happy days! That seems normal.

Now, to check cab interference at a 90 degree turn angle. Compare half the width of the trailer to the distance from the kingpin center to the back of the cab. The 303RLS is 97” wide. Half of 97 is 48.5”

Tape measuring from the tape on the bed, and correcting for the actual placement of the kingpin 1.75" aft of the centerline, tells me that the B&W hitch with the kingpin located to the rearmost location puts the kingpin 46.25 inches from the rear window. Thus the RV and the window OVERLAP by 2.25 inches when turned 90 degrees.

What about other hitches?

The Anderson Ultimate (steel version for rail mount) locates the hitch center 5” aft of the puck centerline. Doing the math for this shows that the Andersen hitch moves the RV back enough that the RV CLEARS the cab window by 1” when turned 90 degrees.

The PullRite SuperLite locates the hitch center AT the puck centerline. Doing the math for this shows that the SuperLite hitch moves the RV forward enough that the RV OVERLAPS the cab window by 4” when turned 90 degrees

Here are the images. Sorry, they are out of order. Pay no attention to ride heights. The RV is on its legs and the truck is unloaded.

I have the B&W Companion manual slider. I usually hitch up with the slider in the rear position. That way I can hitch up and almost any angle. I had a Pullrite auto slider once and it was a PIA to hitch and unhitch on uneven ground. One day I was making a U turn at the cul-de-sac by my house, the hitch failed and the trailer came through the back of my truck and I don't mean it broke the window, it's a good thing no one was in the back seat. No more auto sliders for me. There was 19K of damage to the truck, that was covered by insurance plus the $500 deductible I paid, and I was charged with an accident.

[MAiman]

I have the 2021 2500 HD Silverado Crew cab short bed. I’m pulling 2022 Reflection 303RLS also. I use B&W Companion BKRVK3710 hitch. I run it in the 2” back position and the top mounting holes. It gives me about 7” of bed rail clearance. I have never felt like I need a slider hitch. Mine ways 140 lbs (70 lbs each piece) so it’s easy to remove with the puck system. I am very happy with the ride. I can hitch up with the tailgate down if I’m fairly straight.

[MechWolf]

Here's another vote for the B&W Companion fixed plus the Moreryde pin box in the new Chevy 2500s - I have a tight turn and a dip to back into my driveway, and I get almost to 90° and am just careful. If you need more angle than that, I'd rather drop the trailer and maneuver than carry the heavier and bulkier slider (never had to though).

[fez111]

B&W! Don't even think about it. Just get one.

My brother bought the slider companion for his Sierra 2500 Duramax. He used the slider part exactly twice, and then only because he was paranoid (he's usually paranoid about most everything) about hitting the truck cab. That was 3 r 4 years ago. He doesn't even think about the slider anymore. He wants to sell it for a standard because the slider is definitely a two-man job.

You will NOT be sorry if you get the B & W. There is NO NADA, Zero hitch noise while pulling! It locks positively so you KNOW it is latched. It is adjustable up and down. My daughter and son-in-law just bought one as well.

[PJOB]

I am moving from an old truck to a new one.

New truck: 2023 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD, crew cab short bed (6.8 foot bed)
HAS OEM 5th wheel/gooseneck under bed mounting pucks.

Old truck: 2008 Ford F-250 crew cab short bed (6.75 foot bed )
Uses old-school rail mounts bolted above bed floor.

The old truck and hitch is my first foray into 5th wheel towing and number decisions were made with an abundance of naivete. We used a Husky 16K hitch on a 16K roller mount. (See image attached below.). This set-up functions well but does “clunk” a fair amount and get itself into a mode of “chucking” fore-and-aft where I need to brake slightly to settle it down. As I understand it, the sliding bar type of hitch has some slop in it, as do the slider rollers. This freeplay allows enough fore-aft movement to “chuck”. I have spent time adjusting out as much free-play as I can without causing it to bind up.

We have, however, become accustomed to the manual slider. The rearward position offers allows the tailgate to be open during hitch/un-hitch. And, of course, the peace of mind regarding sharp turns.

In this new truck I’d like take advantage of the OEM mounts and eliminate the chucking. It would be nice to stay with a manual slider. BUT, weight is important. My 3108 lb payload capacity says that I should not use a near-400-lb beast automatic slider, for example.

Plus, I do remove the hitch when not traveling.

I see a few possibilities and want to solicit advice and opinions from folks with the same or similar trucks and fifth wheels.

1a) B&W Companion OEM Slider (RVK3775)
Looks really nice but is heavy, at about 280 lbs. ( I think. B&W is carefully avoids listing weights.)

1b). B&W Companion fixed position hitch:
Lighter than the slider, but NOT a slider (what does this weigh??)
Any folks out there with 303RLS and Chevy 2500/2500 short beds using this? What is your experience?

2) Anderson Ultimate
Super light. NOT a slider. Different sort of hooking up scheme.
Any folks out there with 303RLS and Chevy 2500/2500 short beds using this? What is your experience?

3) Buy an adapter plate (Demco or Curt, for example) and move the old Husky 16K slider into the new truck.
It will work. It will also still be clunky and chucky.
Need to examine the height of the adapter plate versus the height of the rail bolted in the F-250.
The bed of the new truck is a maybe ½ inch higher and perhaps the springs will sag less.

4) Demco and Pullrite
NO manual sliders. I am resisting automatic sliders. Is the foolish?

5) Curt
They have a manual slider, but the whole things seems to be too tall.

What am I missing? What is working well for you?

Here is that photo of the old hitch:

In our 3rd season with a 2020 303RLS, towing with a 2020 GMC Denali HD (2500) Deisel, SRW with the standard box (6.8'). Payload is 3009 lbs. Plenty of capacity and lots of power. We use the Andersen Ultimate Hitch. Easy in and out; hangs on the wall when not in the truck. Zero issues with turning. Trailer comes close when I have it cranked to roughly 90 degrees (rare and on gravel). I'm sure there are alternatives, but I would not hesitate to buy this again. Andersen customer service has been top notch.

[AllenV]

I have the 2021 2500 HD Silverado Crew cab short bed. I’m pulling 2022 Reflection 303RLS also. I use B&W Companion BKRVK3710 hitch. I run it in the 2” back position and the top mounting holes. It gives me about 7” of bed rail clearance. I have never felt like I need a slider hitch. Mine ways 140 lbs (70 lbs each piece) so it’s easy to remove with the puck system. I am very happy with the ride. I can hitch up with the tailgate down if I’m fairly straight.

Here's another vote for the B&W Companion fixed plus the Moreryde pin box in the new Chevy 2500s - I have a tight turn and a dip to back into my driveway, and I get almost to 90° and am just careful. If you need more angle than that, I'd rather drop the trailer and maneuver than carry the heavier and bulkier slider (never had to though).

Thank you for sharing your experience. Several respondents have said that this hitch-and-truck combo works well. And I appreciate MAIMAN offering the details of hitch settings and bed clearance to the 303RLS. As soon as we return from a trip to California I plan to order one. Don't want it showing up while we are away.

[Patriot Sun]

If you really would like the smoothest and most chuck free experience you may want to consider the Hensley Trailer Saver.
We have been using for the last two years and are still impressed with the difference an Air Ride Hitch has made to our journeys.
We pull a GD 310 GK with our 3500 Sierra AT4 SRW and typically average 6000 miles on our five month summer adventures.

I am moving from an old truck to a new one.

New truck: 2023 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD, crew cab short bed (6.8 foot bed)
HAS OEM 5th wheel/gooseneck under bed mounting pucks.

Old truck: 2008 Ford F-250 crew cab short bed (6.75 foot bed )
Uses old-school rail mounts bolted above bed floor.

The old truck and hitch is my first foray into 5th wheel towing and number decisions were made with an abundance of naivete. We used a Husky 16K hitch on a 16K roller mount. (See image attached below.). This set-up functions well but does “clunk” a fair amount and get itself into a mode of “chucking” fore-and-aft where I need to brake slightly to settle it down. As I understand it, the sliding bar type of hitch has some slop in it, as do the slider rollers. This freeplay allows enough fore-aft movement to “chuck”. I have spent time adjusting out as much free-play as I can without causing it to bind up.

We have, however, become accustomed to the manual slider. The rearward position offers allows the tailgate to be open during hitch/un-hitch. And, of course, the peace of mind regarding sharp turns.

In this new truck I’d like take advantage of the OEM mounts and eliminate the chucking. It would be nice to stay with a manual slider. BUT, weight is important. My 3108 lb payload capacity says that I should not use a near-400-lb beast automatic slider, for example.

Plus, I do remove the hitch when not traveling.

I see a few possibilities and want to solicit advice and opinions from folks with the same or similar trucks and fifth wheels.

1a) B&W Companion OEM Slider (RVK3775)
Looks really nice but is heavy, at about 280 lbs. ( I think. B&W is carefully avoids listing weights.)

1b). B&W Companion fixed position hitch:
Lighter than the slider, but NOT a slider (what does this weigh??)
Any folks out there with 303RLS and Chevy 2500/2500 short beds using this? What is your experience?

2) Anderson Ultimate
Super light. NOT a slider. Different sort of hooking up scheme.
Any folks out there with 303RLS and Chevy 2500/2500 short beds using this? What is your experience?

3) Buy an adapter plate (Demco or Curt, for example) and move the old Husky 16K slider into the new truck.
It will work. It will also still be clunky and chucky.
Need to examine the height of the adapter plate versus the height of the rail bolted in the F-250.
The bed of the new truck is a maybe ½ inch higher and perhaps the springs will sag less.

4) Demco and Pullrite
NO manual sliders. I am resisting automatic sliders. Is the foolish?

5) Curt
They have a manual slider, but the whole things seems to be too tall.

What am I missing? What is working well for you?

Here is that photo of the old hitch: