Converting to lithium...keep my converter (for now)?

[docque]

I see both sides here but I am the one that likes hard proof. Yup, I was the kid that when told that fence was electrified there was only one way to find out.

So, what I am reading is my TT has the WFCO converter. It is not an AD model so it is not set for LiFePo4and I will get a lesser charge on the battery. WIll the one solar panel top it off? No clue really.

But what I am also reading is that if I do get the AD model (that is what GD said for me to do if I upgrade) it too will not charge the battery properly?

I know many of you are pulling portable power plants that could light up a small town. But I am just a guy with one battery and one solar panel. No intentions of doing any off grid (yet). Battery is more of an emergency thing.

So, question is with the converter that is not an AD model and a LiFePo4 battery (maybe a 100ah) could I say pull over for the night, run the fridge and lights and be good to go until the next stop?

[Butcher]

My WFCO Converter only ever put out 13.2v (this voltage was measured on the screen of the Lippert Automatic Leveling system vs an actual Volt Meter).

If this is true, I can certainly wrap my head around that the battery would have such a low SOC. Right now, I am using the old converter to keep batteries at the right voltage while working on cars [key on/engine off]. I will check what the voltage is, maybe today.

As you know, the voltage will drop with loads and the size/length of the cables. The converter certainly could produce 13.6v, but at the other end of the cable, under load, it could be at 13.0v. Is that the fault of the converter? I think not but if that is what people are doing, I can see why a battery would be at such a low state of charge.

If people are using the stock cable size from the converter/panel to the lithium battery, I can see that being a problem. GD probably never thought that much current would go to the batteries. As you mentioned, you put everything closer together and I can assume upgraded cables too. I'm certain you designed it so it could handle the additional charging capabilities.

[xrated]

I see both sides here but I am the one that likes hard proof. Yup, I was the kid that when told that fence was electrified there was only one way to find out.

So, what I am reading is my TT has the WFCO converter. It is not an AD model so it is not set for LiFePo4and I will get a lesser charge on the battery. WIll the one solar panel top it off? No clue really.

But what I am also reading is that if I do get the AD model (that is what GD said for me to do if I upgrade) it too will not charge the battery properly?

I know many of you are pulling portable power plants that could light up a small town. But I am just a guy with one battery and one solar panel. No intentions of doing any off grid (yet). Battery is more of an emergency thing.

So, question is with the converter that is not an AD model and a LiFePo4 battery (maybe a 100ah) could I say pull over for the night, run the fridge and lights and be good to go until the next stop?

You have waaaay too many variables in your question to get an honest answer.

1. If your WFCO converter is for FLA batteries, how much voltage does it actually put out? Have you checked it? Does it ever get to the "promised" 14.4V output for at least a couple of hours?

2. Fridge = ???? Is it an absorption.....a 12VDC....or a residential (probably not, just asking for clarity) and what kind of amperage does it pull when running. Will you be running it on propane or electric when you stop?

3. Not really a question but your comment about pulling over for the night......there will be NO solar power being produced, so that's a no go for help from solar.

So DO you have a LiFePO battery or still the FLA? and are you going to buy a LiFePO battery?

[Butcher]

I'm not good with pictures or picking up after my self.

Here is a picture of the output voltage of my converter without any loads. Yes, the leads are hooked up incorrectly but just ignore the minus sign on the Fluke. 13.72v


Here is a picture with a battery that is connected to the circuit. 13.6v. Yes, the leads are still not swapped around so ignore the minus.


As I mentioned before, I now use this converter to keep the system voltage up when I am diagnosing electrical issues with cars. There is just a cheap pair of old jumper cables that I cut one of the ends off and attached them to the converter through the screw lugs. Nothing special. No prep work done. Just jammed the cables into the screw lugs and tighten them down.

FYI, it is a fully charged brand new battery I had in stock. I believe the voltage of the battery was 12.7v but I did not take a picture of that.

[xrated]

I'm not good with pictures or picking up after my self.

Here is a picture of the output voltage of my converter without any loads. Yes, the leads are hooked up incorrectly but just ignore the minus sign on the Fluke. 13.72v


Here is a picture with a battery that is connected to the circuit. 13.6v. Yes, the leads are still not swapped around so ignore the minus.


As I mentioned before, I now use this converter to keep the system voltage up when I am diagnosing electrical issues with cars. There is just a cheap pair of old jumper cables that I cut one of the ends off and attached them to the converter through the screw lugs. Nothing special. No prep work done. Just jammed the cables into the screw lugs and tighten them down.

My WFCO 9855 would never get past about 13.5V, but that was measured on the input side of the battery disconnect switch, not at the terminals themselves on the converter.....so it might....might have actually gotten to 13.6, but either way, it simply wasn't enough voltage to charge the LFP battery that I built. And as I stated earlier, I had some voltage drop issues that was caused by the OEM wiring and components. All of that has been taken care of and when I swapped to the new Meanwell, I just left the 9855 unplugged and sitting on the floor in the baggage compartment behind the wall. I figured that if I'm ever out camping and something would happen to the Meanwell, I'd at least have a converter/charger for a back up until I got home and could replace the MeanWell.

[Fivecodys]

My build sheet has the WFCO part number which I looked up. In my case it is WF 9855, a separate unit simply plugged into an outlet and bolted to the floor behind the distribution panel. There are two 12 awg wires and a ground connected to a terminal strip. Probably need a full set of both US and metric Allen wrenches to be sure about that one. Could easily be replaced during one of those long commercials while watching The Voice with the audio on mute on any given Monday or Tuesday. We will wave as we drive by on our way from Florida to California.

Yep. Just changed mine over to the WFCO WF-9855-with the auto sensing feature and it was pretty easy. The hardest part was the ground screw that was stripped. The unit was located behind the power panel but down on the floor in the basement. Still no biggie.
I added the Victron Smart Shunt with blutooth so I can check on the battery remotely.

[Butcher]

I bet most WFCO converters have the right voltage coming out of it. People make decisions based on what they see at the battery and never test for voltage drop or anything else in the loop. It's easy to blame the converter and come up with false claims when you assume everything else is fine.

I firmly believe if you do use LifePo4 batteries, that the converter should be swapped out for something bigger. Keeping the same but with some type of auto detecting seems like a side step. Stepping up to 100A would almost cut your charging speed in half. In simple terms, if my batteries are dead, it would take 6 hours to charge up. If I kept the 55A [with AD], it would take about 11 hours.

[Redapple63]

I bet most WFCO converters have the right voltage coming out of it. People make decisions based on what they see at the battery and never test for voltage drop or anything else in the loop. It's easy to blame the converter and come up with false claims when you assume everything else is fine.

I firmly believe if you do use LifePo4 batteries, that the converter should be swapped out for something bigger. Keeping the same but with some type of auto detecting seems like a side step. Stepping up to 100A would almost cut your charging speed in half. In simple terms, if my batteries are dead, it would take 6 hours to charge up. If I kept the 55A [with AD], it would take about 11 hours.

Keep in mind that to nearly double the amperage output would require new wiring between the batteries and converter/charger. The wires currently used by nearly all manufacturers (no pun intended) can’t handle that much.

Bill

[huntindog]

I bet most WFCO converters have the right voltage coming out of it. People make decisions based on what they see at the battery and never test for voltage drop or anything else in the loop. It's easy to blame the converter and come up with false claims when you assume everything else is fine.

I firmly believe if you do use LifePo4 batteries, that the converter should be swapped out for something bigger. Keeping the same but with some type of auto detecting seems like a side step. Stepping up to 100A would almost cut your charging speed in half. In simple terms, if my batteries are dead, it would take 6 hours to charge up. If I kept the 55A [with AD], it would take about 11 hours.

This thinking is ancient history for me with WFCOs. Many years ago some internet gurus stated the same. So I went to the trouble/expense of upgrading the wiring. It was a waste of effort/money. WFCOs are best used as a doorstop.
On another note: Speed of charging may not be a desired outcome. When boondocking, I often want to use a single Honda EU2000 because it is economical. Too large of a charger can mean that it along with some other loads makes the Honda too small. I have even read of some that prefer 1,000 watt generators for the same reason.

[Butcher]

I base this statement on a video from Ray, at Love Your RV, that ran his LiFePo4 batteries with his OEM Converter for a couple of years before he finally upgraded his Converter to a Lithium Capable unit. For Ray, upgrading his Converter was not a priority because his Solar panels could get his batteries to 100% SOC, however, he did spend his summers at a stationary location and his experience showed only a 53% SOC from the OEM Converter.

Here is the Link to the Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEutPVI-2R8

I just watched this video [again] last night and around the 12 minute mark he shows his new converter pushing 14.5v and mentions [does not show] that the battery end is at 13.4v.

This is why a standard converter only charged his lithium batteries to 53%. He has a 1.1v voltage drop to his batteries. Assuming his standard converter tops out at the factory voltage of 13.6v, with a voltage drop of 1.1v, his charging voltage would be 12.5v. If I recall, my loss is around .1v@45-50A. I do understand if the charging current is lower, the voltage drop would be less.

I would think a TV repairman would notice that kind of drop and do something about it.