Unloading Motorcycle from 23G

[Daleahoke]

After a summer of using our 23G, I finally figured out how to unload my motorcycle by myself.

The issue is: I ride a BMW R1200 GS which weighs about 500 lbs. I use a wheel chock that has an elevated pivot to help lock the front wheel in place. Getting the bike out of this chock by myself is a challenge and I end up behind the bike pulling on the luggage rack to get the bike out of the chock. But when the bike is out of the chock, the rear wheel is over the lip of the internal ramp and then I'm trying to hold back a 500 lbs bike. I tried putting a wheel stop behind the rear tire, but then getting that out was a chore.

So here is the solution I came up with:

I untie all of the tie down straps (wheel chock holds the bike upright).
Standing on the left side of the bike.
Put down the side stand.
Put the bike into 1st gear (this helps on the ramp).
Hook up a ratchet strap between the rear center tie down loop and the engine guards (I load the bike off center in the trailer to help balance the weight of the slide).
Pull in the clutch
Start ratcheting the strap. It will tighten, and then slowly lift the bike over the wheel chock pivot point.
When it is over the pivot point, I back it off the pivot and set it onto the side stand.
Then I unhook the ratchet strap, put up the side stand, and back the bike down the ramp.
Using the transmission in 1st gear does a better job of controlling the bike on the ramp than the front brake.

That's it. I feel like I have better control over the bike throughout the whole process using this method.

Thanks.

Dale

[Hoopy Frood]

What kind of chock are you using? Some have a bit of adjustment so the rollover of the chock may not be so great. I can pretty easily rock my Interceptor out of the Condor chock, and it weighs in at about the same as your BMW. Takes a couple of rock and brake, then it's over, and down the ramp.

[Daleahoke]

It's a Pittsburgh wheel chock I got from Harbor Freight.

The issue seems to be that the friction holding the tire in place is hard to overcome. Once I break the tire free, it's still difficult to get over the pivot point. There is a way to adjust the position of the pivot (front to back), but that would not affect the height of the pivot.

I also have a condor chock but I like the Pittsburgh better because it does not require permanent fasteners to provide great stability.

[Hoopy Frood]

Yes, I have both and you're right, it does take some force to get the tire out of the HF chock, one of its drawbacks. Which is why I use the Condor chock in the trailer. I'm not sure what you mean by "permanent fasteners". Mine isn't fastened down permanently to anything. No holes in the floor at all, just use the D-ring tiedowns.

[Daleahoke]

My condor was bolted to the floor of my small utility trailer. when I sold the trailer I kept the chock. So there are no outriggers and very few holes to use to tie the chock down.

However, this winter would be a good time to dig it out and see if I can make it work. It would certainly be easier to move around and store than the Pittsburgh.

[Hoopy Frood]

Yes, mine has the outriggers, and they would be simple to fabricate. I use an aluminum plate slotted to fit over the D-rings, and two pins that fit up through the aluminum plate. The Condor chock fits over the two pins and when the bike is in place, I use tie downs and a Canyon Dancer to the D-rings protruding through the aluminum plate, to secure the handlebars, but very loosely.The rear is tied down more tightly to the D-rings in the back. No holes in the floor, nothing sticking up to stumble over. Works great. Very secure, with little stress on the handlebars, and hasn't moved in the 12 years I've been doing it.

[Daleahoke]

do you have a photo of your set up? Sounds interesting.

I might have an issue with my d ring location that you don't have (depending on your model). Mine is a 23G so the location of the middle d rings is behind where I need it to be. I fasten my chock to the front and the back and then tied the bike to the chock and the back.

[Hoopy Frood]

I don't have any pictures of the garage that I can find. If I get out there again, I was just there earlier today, I'll get some. The rear D-rings I use are probably about 8-10 inches behind the back of the bike. The front ones are quite a ways ahead of the bike so it works out pretty well.

[Daleahoke]

ok, thanks. No worries.

[Wileykid]

It's a Pittsburgh wheel chock I got from Harbor Freight.

The issue seems to be that the friction holding the tire in place is hard to overcome. Once I break the tire free, it's still difficult to get over the pivot point. There is a way to adjust the position of the pivot (front to back), but that would not affect the height of the pivot.

I also have a condor chock but I like the Pittsburgh better because it does not require permanent fasteners to provide great stability.

Which Pittsburgh one do you have? I use the black one, and have taken the bar off of it. I strap it on each side to a D-ring, and my bike will stand on its own, although I keep the side stand down until I have strapped the front down. I am able to pull my bike out by holding the handle bar, clutch in, and the passenger grab bar, and rock it out. I had the other Pittsburgh stand (silver), and found it harder to pull out. I keep the side stand down, and soon as it is out, set it on the stand. I also keep the bike in gear to make sure it doesn't roll. This has worked on my last bike, a Super Tenere (same weight as your GS), and my current Tiger.

When I load my bike, I strap the chock to the rear side D-rings to make sure it doesn't move forward as I ride in.