Heat distribution from furnace and how often does your furnace light off?

[Butcher]

Yes, I did mention the model I have, check out response 4.

I would agree, the return is way too small for the entire system. I hope that people did not imply that it was sized properly.

[livinthelife]

You don't say what model you have, but on several models there is a small return in the bathroom. Our 2016 Reflection 337RLS had one - but it was not large enough to handle the entire return volume. There were also returns under the stairs and under the buffett.

Rob

On our 2017 Reflection 25RL there's a cold air return behind the toilet (looks like a regular register cover, so many people think it's the vent INTO the rig, not out). There's also a cold air return under the hutch in the kitchen area.

Now, both of those returns are on the same wall in the center of the rig (hutch wall backs up to bathroom). Often I will feel cold air flowing when I open the drawers in the hutch.

[trailrydr]

I swear in mine there is a fresh air intake next to the toilet. Not willing to commit to that 100%.

We too find it warmer in the bedroom. I plan on resolving that problem too. The heating vent is below the sliding door and causes the vinyl to peel. I will probably put a vent that will allow it to be closed off or at least adjusted to limit the flow.

Our '19 295RL also has a return air behind the toilet. Since we only run our FP and portable ceramic heater, we block off the returns cause they allow for "cooler" air to enter from the basement.

[ajg617]

Just kicked the furnace on and the flow is anemic. The only furnace heat outlets are both ends of the island and drivers side of coffee nook in the main living area, the bathroom behind the toilet, and wall of bedroom near the door just above the floor. There are no returns in either the bedroom or bathroom. All returns are in the main living area and are very large - pantry lower shelf enclosure has a three inch gap the entire width, entire bottom of coffee nook, and under the entire overlap of the 2nd over 1st step up to the bedroom.

[Dave & Robin G]

I’ve got a 2600RB trailer and had thought about installing a register with a shutter also, but after some further research I was warned not to block or restrict airflow on any outlets as it will cause the furnace to fail over time. I can’t remember the particulars, but I never did it after reading about it. Had you heard anything like that? How long have you had the shutter on and I assume you never completely close it?

However the bedroom definitely gets much hotter than the rest of the trailer.

[bhbery]

I know warm air rises and the human body gives off heat, but we have spent several nights down at 34F and had the furnace going on propane, both dry camp and hooked up. Had the thermostat set to 66F and it would shut off accordingly but were we ever warm in the bedroom - that thermostat read 78F well after it normalized with furnace off. Any tricks to better distribute heat?

Second question is how well does your coach retain the heat? Timed it and furnace was lighting every 20 minutes and it was very chilly in the rear. I didn't have another temperature to measure, but curious how well temps should be maintained. Seemed like in 106F weather, the ACs were off much more than on - not so the furnace. I did verify that the thermostat temp was one degree under temp set which is when it seems to trigger furnace lighting. That's pretty much the same in our house, but seems like we lose heat in the main living area pretty quickly. Just curious what others have experienced.

We typically use the fireplace as the primary heat source and the furnace, set a few degrees lower, as backup. We run one of the air conditioner fans on low to distribute the heat evenly. Works well for us.

[trailrydr]

We typically use the fireplace as the primary heat source and the furnace, set a few degrees lower, as backup. We run one of the air conditioner fans on low to distribute the heat evenly. Works well for us.

We too always use fans to circulate the heat in both our trailer and stick built. Found it works best especially for vaulted ceilings in the homes we have owned.

[ajg617]

We typically use the fireplace as the primary heat source and the furnace, set a few degrees lower, as backup. We run one of the air conditioner fans on low to distribute the heat evenly. Works well for us.

I'm amazed at how well the fireplace works. But when we stay at a Harvest Host location the furnace on LP is the only option. We hit low 30s at a couple in May and again Sep/Oct. Furnace worked fine but the distribution between the back end and the bedroom was night and day with very little warm air flow coming out of the bathroom and bedroom heat registers.

[440scout]

We have the same model 310GK except the fridge is propane electric and instead of a heatpump I added a "chill chaser" 1500 watt heating coil inside the bedroom a/c that cycles on/off with the t-stat. It will keep the bedroom warm but it interferes with my sleep every time it cycles on or off. Your description of the supply and return air locations are accurate. When running the furnace it is always about 2-3 degrees warmer in the bedroom than in the living area, that is to be expected because of the layout. So, at night I set the t-stat for the furnace about 2-3 degrees cooler than daytime use. I would take out that angled wall in the basement (remove 4 screws) and look on the right for the furnace. You'll see it under the waterheater. Make sure there are no obstructions to the return air inlet on the side of the furnace and that all the flex ducts are tight where they connect to the furnace. You probably can't see the entire duct that feeds the bedroom but at least look for any areas of the ducts that are crushed, kinked or bent so far that they are restricting airflow. You will also see several 2" ducts. One supplies warm air to the Nautilus water control panel and one or 2 others that feed the under belly. At this point you can look under the steps and the coffee bar for any return air restrictions. There's not much you can do about that hugh bundle of wires going up to the control panel. And in that same area next to the steps you should see your converter/battery charger.
When that Polar Vortex hit in 2021 we were in Ft Davis Texas and the second night of the Polar Vortex the temp got down to zero. The power had gone out the day before so all we had for heat was the furnace and the best it could do was 65 while running continuously. That's all it could do considering the fireplace couldn't be used. The manufacturer counts the fireplace BTUs along with the furnace as the total heat output. I hope you figure out the cause of that heat problem, good luck!

[Second Chance]

...The manufacturer counts the fireplace BTUs along with the furnace as the total heat output.

I don't know where you got that information, but it's not correct. The Suburban furnace in the Solitude 310GKs is rated at 35,000 BTU. It has nothing to do with the fireplace.

Rob

Edit/PS: the GD web page clearly separates the 35,000 BTU furnace from the 5,000 BTU fireplace:

https://www.granddesignrv.com/showro...oorplans/310gk