Q&A on upgrading imagine 2600rb suspension

[Petrovsky]

This fall I changed out the Westlake tires and replaced with Goodyear endurance. Noticed a rougher ride but I expected this. I would like to solicit the forum for comments on my intention to beef up the trailer suspension. I tow with a 1500 Sierra and have experienced porpoising and chucking. Here are my planned upgrades.

Truck: Change out the Michelin tires and put on real LT's. Change rear shocks to Bilstein and add air bags that will be inflated to 20-30psi when towing and only 5psi when not.

2600RB: Have upgraded the tires (balanced) including spare to Goodyear Endurance. This spring, am planning on either the CRE35 or Lippert Road Armor with upgraded shackle kit. Am leaning to the MoRyde. Would consider adding the x-factor brace across the equalizers. Would also add the roadmaster 2600 shock absorber kit. Did consider sumo's but I live up in Canada and they tend to breakdown in cold weather.

Also would not want to lift the trailer too high. It is already high enough. Also note, due to the high tongue weight near 1000 lbs, I upgraded the hitch to the stiffer 1200/12000 as per discussion with Equalizer Technician. I did get a comment that the bars might be too stiff (no spring) so this might have increased the porpoising. Not too sure about that!

Thanks

[FT4NOW]

I think your plan is reasonable. I'd go with CRE3000 over Lippert Road Armor.

Why are you only changing rear shocks on truck? Might as well do all of them with Bilstein.

Have you considered adding sumo springs to the truck and/or trailer?

Have you considered a shock kit on the trailer?

How is your trailer loading? Do you have 12 - 15% of the trailer weight on the tongue?

Also, what hitch are you using?

There a lot of factors that can make a rough or better ride.

[AZMike]

This fall I changed out the Westlake tires and replaced with Goodyear endurance. Noticed a rougher ride but I expected this. I would like to solicit the forum for comments on my intention to beef up the trailer suspension. I tow with a 1500 Sierra and have experienced porpoising and chucking. Here are my planned upgrades.

Truck: Change out the Michelin tires and put on real LT's. Change rear shocks to Bilstein and add air bags that will be inflated to 20-30psi when towing and only 5psi when not.

2600RB: Have upgraded the tires (balanced) including spare to Goodyear Endurance. This spring, am planning on either the CRE35 or Lippert Road Armor with upgraded shackle kit. Am leaning to the MoRyde. Would consider adding the x-factor brace across the equalizers. Would also add the roadmaster 2600 shock absorber kit. Did consider sumo's but I live up in Canada and they tend to breakdown in cold weather.

Also would not want to lift the trailer too high. It is already high enough. Also note, due to the high tongue weight near 1000 lbs, I upgraded the hitch to the stiffer 1200/12000 as per discussion with Equalizer Technician. I did get a comment that the bars might be too stiff (no spring) so this might have increased the porpoising. Not too sure about that!

Thanks

I had upgraded my 2600 with Goodyear Endurance, CRE3000, wet bolts, X-Factor on the center hangers, and "boxed in" (welded supports on my front and rear) hangers. On our 10,000 mile trip across the country in 2021 the porpoising got so bad toward the end of the trip that it was on the verge of being unsafe. I also have Michelin LT tires on my Tundra. The only change I made when we returned was installing heavy duty springs and Bilstein shocks on the rear of my Tundra. It now tows like a dream, very satisfied!

[Petrovsky]

I think your plan is reasonable. I'd go with CRE3000 over Lippert Road Armor.

Why are you only changing rear shocks on truck? Might as well do all of them with Bilstein.

Have you considered adding sumo springs to the truck and/or trailer?

Have you considered a shock kit on the trailer?

How is your trailer loading? Do you have 12 - 15% of the trailer weight on the tongue?

Also, what hitch are you using?

There a lot of factors that can make a rough or better ride.

To answer your questions. I did consider sumo springs for both truck and trailer but if you look into it they don't do well in cold weather. I am in Canada. The next option considered where Timbren (the old standard) and these would have done the job but once they are on, the ride stays stiffer just like adding an extra leaf spring to the rear as I did with my old GMC Safari. Instead I am opting for air bags as the ride can be adjusted as I indicated.

I did mention that I was likely going to install a shock kit on the trailer. On the scales I am at 13.8%. The hitch is in the signature, equalizer 1200/12000. As for the shocks on the truck, I can only do the rear as I have struts up front and these are expensive to change out. Either way with the weight distribution I am just putting back the weight to the front that should have been there in the first place. It is the sag in the rear and excessive bouncing that I need to control. Once I stiffen the rear and absorb most of the shock on the trailer itself I hope to improve the ride markedly. Less energy transfer from trailer suspension to trailer and smoother transition of absorption from front to rear axle hoping to eliminate some of that front to rear bounce. Check out the comment below form AZmike. I am pretty much going the same way with the exception of the air bags. Adding a leaf to the truck raises it in the rear permanently and I'd rather maintain the smooth ride when not towing by lowering the pressure in the air bags. Another selfish or practical reason, it is currently a lease that I will buy out May 2023 due to low mileage and overpriced trucks and availability and reduction of features due to chip shortages. in 2024 or early 2025, unless they upgrade the truck I can move the equipment to the new lease or purchase.

Thanks for the input.

[FT4NOW]

To answer your questions. I did consider sumo springs for both truck and trailer but if you look into it they don't do well in cold weather. I am in Canada. The next option considered where Timbren (the old standard) and these would have done the job but once they are on, the ride stays stiffer just like adding an extra leaf spring to the rear as I did with my old GMC Safari. Instead I am opting for air bags as the ride can be adjusted as I indicated.

I did mention that I was likely going to install a shock kit on the trailer. On the scales I am at 13.8%. The hitch is in the signature, equalizer 1200/12000. As for the shocks on the truck, I can only do the rear as I have struts up front and these are expensive to change out. Either way with the weight distribution I am just putting back the weight to the front that should have been there in the first place. It is the sag in the rear and excessive bouncing that I need to control. Once I stiffen the rear and absorb most of the shock on the trailer itself I hope to improve the ride markedly. Less energy transfer from trailer suspension to trailer and smoother transition of absorption from front to rear axle hoping to eliminate some of that front to rear bounce. Check out the comment below form AZmike. I am pretty much going the same way with the exception of the air bags. Adding a leaf to the truck raises it in the rear permanently and I'd rather maintain the smooth ride when not towing by lowering the pressure in the air bags. Another selfish or practical reason, it is currently a lease that I will buy out May 2023 due to low mileage and overpriced trucks and availability and reduction of features due to chip shortages. in 2024 or early 2025, unless they upgrade the truck I can move the equipment to the new lease or purchase.

Thanks for the input.

Seems like you are on the right path, I was just asking questions mainly to help cover anything you didnt think of. I did miss where you said you were considering trailer shocks, after reading the original post I see it now. I can see why you dont want sumo springs, air bags are a good choice. I've had them on 2 trucks and think they are a good addition. I've had manual fill and auto fill with an on-board compressor. I do like the option from controlling the pressure with a remote from inside the truck or outside the truck much better than the manual fill option. Hope your changes work out for you, a smooth ride makes for a much better experience overall.

[Petrovsky]

I had upgraded my 2600 with Goodyear Endurance, CRE3000, wet bolts, X-Factor on the center hangers, and "boxed in" (welded supports on my front and rear) hangers. On our 10,000 mile trip across the country in 2021 the porpoising got so bad toward the end of the trip that it was on the verge of being unsafe. I also have Michelin LT tires on my Tundra. The only change I made when we returned was installing heavy duty springs and Bilstein shocks on the rear of my Tundra. It now tows like a dream, very satisfied!

You seem to have a very similar issue to mine. I noted that changing our the Westlakes (less stiff tire) to the Endurance resulted in more shock transmitted to trailer. More stuff bounced around. This is why I am looking at installing a shock kit. As indicated I am also leaning to the Moryde equipment. Did you have an issue installing the x-factor across the trailer at the equalizers? (any thing in the way). Since I am looking at a shock kit I wonder if the x-factor might be in the way? On the Bilstein did you install the 5100 or the 4600. The 5100's are for lifted trucks the add says. I recall you had boxed in the hangers in another post. Might also be a good idea for me to consider. Get a good spot welder to do it. Unfortunately, my guys have small lots and a trailer wouldn't fit.

[Petrovsky]

BTW...My original idea was to move up the GMC Sierra 2500. The lease was $995 CAD last June and in late mid October they were looking at $1300.00 monthly. If I took the pro tow package I would lose the heated seats and steering wheel. Go figure .... chip shortage. Above my budget and getting less comfort. I am just mentioning in case you wonder why I am not moving up a notch. For the $3600 I'd be spending in the first year of the lease I can do all the mods on the truck with some on the trailer. Mods on trailer I would have done anyways.

Cheers.

[jleonard]

On the Bilstein did you install the 5100 or the 4600. The 5100's are for lifted trucks the add says.

I put the 4600s on the rear of my Ram and it calmed the porpoising down. I know you're Chevy, but on the Ram forum I'm on they talked the same about 5100s being only for lifted trucks, but they work on stock height trucks also. Might be the same for Chevy. Look at the dimensions and they are very close to being the same for Ram likely for Chevy too.

[AZMike]

You seem to have a very similar issue to mine. I noted that changing our the Westlakes (less stiff tire) to the Endurance resulted in more shock transmitted to trailer. More stuff bounced around. This is why I am looking at installing a shock kit. As indicated I am also leaning to the Moryde equipment. Did you have an issue installing the x-factor across the trailer at the equalizers? (any thing in the way). Since I am looking at a shock kit I wonder if the x-factor might be in the way? On the Bilstein did you install the 5100 or the 4600. The 5100's are for lifted trucks the add says. I recall you had boxed in the hangers in another post. Might also be a good idea for me to consider. Get a good spot welder to do it. Unfortunately, my guys have small lots and a trailer wouldn't fit.

The drain for the galley tank is "sort of" in the way, so my trailer guys did a minor mod on the curb side to account for it. I had checked with them first before I ordered the x-factor. I installed the stock Bilstein shocks on my truck as it is not lifted (I don't remember which ones), but I do have the Rock Warrior and tow packages so they are better shocks anyway . The new springs raised the truck only about 1". I didn't want to have to deal with airbags (I did consider them). The truck does ride slightly stiffer but it is not a concern for me as it is not my daily driver. The mods I made were the best solution for me.

I forgot to mention that by the end of our 2021 trip the rear springs on the truck were so flat that the axle was hitting the rubber bumpers on just about every bump.

[FT4NOW]

I've also installed 5100s on a stock height truck, they have different version 5100s, just order the stock height version. The 4600s are painted, but the 5100s are made of something more corrosion resistant than the 4600s.